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teddillard
04 July 2011, 1650
HOkay. I'm at the point where I'm going to dive in and order my lipo. Thought it might be helpful to post the progress...

This is for the R5e, the '71 Yamaha R5 conversion, posted here:
http://www.elmoto.net/showthread.php?615-Vintage-Cafe-RD350

I'm putting in an order to HobbyKing for these: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=14844

I'm also ordering 4 of these: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=15166

I'm a complete noob with this stuff. RemoteContact (Adam) has spent a lot of time with me giving me the benefit of his considerable experience with battlebots, and so most of what I've come up with comes from him. He's also insisted that I give credit to the Endless Sphere guys, which I'm glad to. A great place to start reading is here: http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=19956

So the basic setup, limited by my budget, is going to be 20aH of 25C 5s packs, (16 total) giving me 74V. (LiPo runs what, 3.7V nominal, right?) I'm going to balance them with the balance tabs paralleled, and 4 balancing chargers. So, I'm starting with 4 5s packs paralleled, giving me 18.5V and 20aH. Each of those gets one charger across the paralleled balance tabs, and they all 4 get series-ed together to give me 74V. (The voltage ranges are from 3.2 min, to 4.2 max, so at a full charge they're going to give me 84V, within my controller's upper limit of 90V (Alltrax 7245).

I don't care about range right now. When I do, I'll add more packs.

Here's what it looks like, this was drawn for 6s packs, but you get the idear:

1381

The first thing that I've decided is that I have to beef up the protection for the batteries. Adam said they blow up for one of two reasons. They either overheat, or they get punctured... the battlebot rules now require full metal enclosures. So I'm working on an aluminum case of sorts to give them some protection in case of a fall.

Nuts & Volts
05 July 2011, 1135
Cool stuff. I think going with the balancing chargers is a good idea for your first LiPo build. ~$200 for 600W is not that much kW/$ thou. And you will also need to power a 10-18V 600W+ power supply to run those chargers. Good thing is you dont need a BMS bc the chargers will do the HVC and balancing and you can probably do a manual pack level LVC unless you really push the cells lower than 3.6V/cell (that is unloaded). Make sure if you leave your cells in series to charge that your power supplies or chargers are isolated from each other.

Cells blow for a few reasons
- punctured (internal short causes spark and lithium/eletrolyte ignite and burn)
- overheating (maybe enough heat to ignite electrolyte or maybe electrolyte melts??)
- cell contamination (quality control is bad and the chemical make-up in the cell is unstable and reaction occurs)

When you receive your cells you should do the following
- do a visibility check to verify no cells are punctured and that no cells are swelled up
- manually check voltages to determine if any cells are dead or way out of balance from the rest of the cells (individually test/check these cells later)
- charge cells up and monitor voltages throughout
- if possible cycle cells 3-4 times to weed out any weak cells OR limit the first couple of discharge cycles to weed out bad cells
- remove suspect cells/packs
- have fun

I like LiPo more and more especially when they start to develop cheap products that can do 130C (http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__17265__Turnigy_nano-tech_6000mah_2S2P_65~130C_Hardcase_Lipo_Pack.html) :D

teddillard
05 July 2011, 1149
That was exactly the plan. The charger also can discharge the packs, so it's a simple way to cycle them a few times. Adam said it would take about a week. Some other guys I've talked to said that once you get good packs, they stay really good- very few defect-related failures once the initial bad packs are weeded out. (I ordered 2 extra, hopefully won't need any more.)

The chargers need a standard 12V power supply, wall-wart style, so that's no biggie, just need four, and as Adam said, if you don't run isolated power supplies, all hell will break loose. :O

kd8cgo
05 July 2011, 1200
I was reading over on Endless Sphere awhile back about paralleling the balance leads, which seems like it would do a nice job of keeping the individual cells in-line within the packs, and came across what I thought was a good idea. It was mentioned that using an inline resistor between each pack's individual balance leads would prevent the possibility of over current on those small gauge leads in the event one cell inside an RC pack fails. Protection circuits could be fused, PTC resettable fuse, or just a resistor. Thoughts?

Since I am also considering LiPo, I have a keen interest in what you find works out for your build.

Nuts & Volts
05 July 2011, 1212
I was reading over on Endless Sphere awhile back about paralleling the balance leads, which seems like it would do a nice job of keeping the individual cells in-line within the packs, and came across what I thought was a good idea. It was mentioned that using an inline resistor between each pack's individual balance leads would prevent the possibility of over current on those small gauge leads in the event one cell inside an RC pack fails. Protection circuits could be fused, PTC resettable fuse, or just a resistor. Thoughts?

Since I am also considering LiPo, I have a keen interest in what you find works out for your build.

I read through that too, but the resistor would waste a lot of heat and could blow just as easilly as a wire if its not rated correctly. IMHO paralleling with thin wire is easier, quicker and just as safe as the resistor idea. An EE may have something else to say about that thou


And good to know that you have a game plan Ted.

teddillard
05 July 2011, 1212
One key point is to make sure the packs are fully charged before you connect the balance tabs, to keep any dramatic cell variations from happening. From what I've read, yes, individual cells can fail even after you've weeded out the bad lot, but it's not too likely, and honestly, the small gauge wires (IMO) are self-fusing.

I have been considering putting together a small board with connectors to make the balance tab connections easy, and if I did that I'd probably toss in fuses... but I'm pretty sure I'm just going to do a straight permanent connection.

Nuts & Volts
05 July 2011, 1242
One key point is to make sure the packs are fully charged before you connect the balance tabs, to keep any dramatic cell variations from happening. From what I've read, yes, individual cells can fail even after you've weeded out the bad lot, but it's not too likely, and honestly, the small gauge wires (IMO) are self-fusing.

I have been considering putting together a small board with connectors to make the balance tab connections easy, and if I did that I'd probably toss in fuses... but I'm pretty sure I'm just going to do a straight permanent connection.

Yes, good point the fusing limits is only going to occur under a cell failure.

Also there are parallel boards (here (http://epbuddy.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=15)are some) made to connect up packs in parallel. I looks cheaper to just by the JST connectors, pins and wire and solder together your own parallel connectors .

DRZ400
05 July 2011, 1315
I have that exact charger for my RC stuff, also used it to balance my 24S pack of Calbs (balanced 3, 8S banks) prior to installing the mini-bms. During a 8S balance charge, the charger could not balance if the charge rate was set higher than 1.5 amps. I think this is because the bleed rate is so low compared to the 40AH capacity (in my case).

teddillard
07 July 2011, 0241
dammit.

Just found these, thanks to RC: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__18631__Turnigy_5000mAh_4S1P_14.8v_20C_hardcase_p ack_USA_Warehouse.html

The "hardcase" packs are relatively new, enclosed in plastic, and much better protected against puncture and expansion. They're also a good deal @ $22 for a 4s. But they're backordered.

dammit.

OK, in the spirit of my Dad, "The Lord hates a Coward", the order is placed. Programming will be switched to the "Stuff I'm Waiting For" thread until further notice... :D

shaunmza
07 July 2011, 0258
dammit.

Just found these, thanks to RC: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__18631__Turnigy_5000mAh_4S1P_14.8v_20C_hardcase_p ack_USA_Warehouse.html

The "hardcase" packs are relatively new, enclosed in plastic, and much better protected against puncture and expansion. They're also a good deal @ $22 for a 4s. But they're backordered.

dammit.

Don't know how accurate their site is but apparently the will have stock within 30 days

Or can't you wait that long?

teddillard
07 July 2011, 0305
Don't know how accurate their site is but apparently the will have stock within 30 days

Or can't you wait that long?

I never believe that stuff... and I WANTZ. :D (see edit. placed order.)

teddillard
07 July 2011, 0424
OK, here's the plan. One module:

http://evmc2.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/picture-11.png?w=447&h=423

5 modules in series:

http://evmc2.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/turnigy1.jpg?w=640&h=173

(DISCLAIMER: First, mostly all of this is from RemoteContact, AKA Adam Bercu. He gives credit over to Endless Sphere, but I know for a fact he’s learned all this stuff himself, the hard way - by building such badass robots they won’t let him play in their sandbox anymore… but that’s a tale for another day.

Second, lipo is dangerous, and you take anything I say here at YOUR OWN RISK. If your lawyer thinks I have some deep pockets he can go after if you blow your silly ass up doing anything I say here… well, your lawyer is delusional. Do your homework. I may be totally full of crap.)

Nuts & Volts
07 July 2011, 0450
Curious, how do you plan on paralleling the power leads? Copper busbar with bullet plugs, cut and solder both, cut and add ring terminals, alligator clips with 22AWG wire :)

PS - dont do that last one please

teddillard
07 July 2011, 0455
...alligator clips with 22AWG wire :)

yeah, THAT'S the ticket... :D

(answer: I haven't got that far yet. But I do have some idears.)

frodus
07 July 2011, 0852
have you seen the F/G BMS on endless-sphere. it's the new one and it integrates some of these packs with the cell-logs. Pretty slick.

teddillard
07 July 2011, 0908
have you seen the F/G BMS on endless-sphere. it's the new one and it integrates some of these packs with the cell-logs. Pretty slick.

I have, but in the threads I saw it looked a little "beta". You wouldn't care to take the sport out of it and give us a link, wouldja? :D

edit: I found it... (SportGoogling): http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=26554&hilit=bms Their "order" site is 404. :(

Forgive me if I don't read the whole 27 pages, but it looks more like a project than a working product. Not something I'm interested in... but thanks just the same.

frodus
07 July 2011, 0944
yeah, i haven't (nor will I) read the insane amount of pages. They need to make a website.

It's a product they sell through a website, but they're developing it with help from people/feedback. They've had several itterations of their BMS, this is one of them.

Coninsan
07 July 2011, 1120
dammit.

Just found these, thanks to RC: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__18631__Turnigy_5000mAh_4S1P_14.8v_20C_hardcase_p ack_USA_Warehouse.html

The "hardcase" packs are relatively new, enclosed in plastic, and much better protected against puncture and expansion. They're also a good deal @ $22 for a 4s. But they're backordered.


Another one bites the Lipo, I got me those cells too :D
Although I ordered from the EU warehouse. It took about 3 weeks before the first bulk (5 boxes worth or 45 batteries) but I have yet to see the rest turn up. Get ready for a bit of a wait. :)

Oh and btw. Don't try soldering cell wires onto a 2 awg main cable, doesn't work, been there. Either solder or bolt the bullet plugs onto a busbar. Or... loose the bullets and replace them with ring lugs and bolt those directly to the busbar (might blow your warranty though)

Nuts & Volts
09 July 2011, 0733
FYI
HobbyKing finally added bare cells for building your own packs or repairing an old pack with a dead cell.

20c $8.78
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__18560__Turnigy_5000mAh_1S_20C_Lipoly_Single_Cell .html

40c $11.33
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/%5F%5F18562%5F%5FTurnigy%5F5000mAh%5F1S%5F40C%5FLi poly%5FSingle%5FCell.html

Dave you finally got your wish, now we better see a LiPo pack built by you. FYI the energy density is ~160Wh/kg for the 20C cell

PS - I just ran a pack of 10Ah 20C cells at 280A or 28C peak, average cell voltage was ~3.3V, more later :)

cycleguy
09 July 2011, 0903
This is the best news I've heard in a long time. Now we're talking!
Although I'm still concerned with the volatility of these cells if one goes bad in the middle of your pack....Hmmmm

podolefsky
09 July 2011, 1000
FYI
HobbyKing finally added bare cells for building your own packs or repairing an old pack with a dead cell.

20c $8.78
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__18560__Turnigy_5000mAh_1S_20C_Lipoly_Single_Cell .html

40c $11.33
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/%5F%5F18562%5F%5FTurnigy%5F5000mAh%5F1S%5F40C%5FLi poly%5FSingle%5FCell.html


This is cool - but I'm confused. At $8.78, those individual packs are $0.47/Wh. The regular soft packs are around $0.40-0.45/Wh. The 4s hardpacks are $0.31/Wh. (All 20C prices.) What's up with that?

DaveAK
09 July 2011, 1020
Damn. I'm running out of kidneys to sell.

DaveAK
09 July 2011, 1022
This is cool - but I'm confused. At $8.78, those individual packs are $0.47/Wh. The regular soft packs are around $0.40-0.45/Wh. The 4s hardpacks are $0.31/Wh. (All 20C prices.) What's up with that?
That's exactly what I would expect. I bet the margins are pretty slim on built packs, so they're making the money on the loose cells. As the demand and competition rises for loose cells the price will come down I'm sure.

They also compare favorably in price to the only other loose cells I know that are being sold - $30 for 6AH 50C (http://www.ecedra.com/thebatteryshop.html).

DaveAK
09 July 2011, 1057
Pay day is next Friday. I think I'll get a handful of these to play with. :)

DaveAK
09 July 2011, 1353
If you leave the page open long enough they'll offer you a one time deal of $8.50 for the 20C and $10.97 for the 40C. You might be able to deal on quantity, but I expect the price will begin to fall soon enough.

SplinterOz
09 July 2011, 1559
Talking LiPo's have a look how Daniel on the Ripperton got his individual cells together...
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e62/ripperton_2008/Electric%20R1/DSC00069-1.jpg
More photos on the link.
http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=249935&postcount=348

teddillard
11 July 2011, 0307
Making the balance lead pigtails- Not sure on the size of the wire, but here's what I've decided on for making the charging/balance harnesses. I'm connecting four packs to one charger port, so 5 wires in, one out to the connector.

Get these little sleeves from the local Lowes, stuff, crimp and solder-

http://evmc2.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/picture-4.png?w=640&h=422

Heatshrink- done.

http://evmc2.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/picture-5.png?w=640&h=420

teddillard
11 July 2011, 0317
Here's the kind of thing I'm trying to avoid (photo via TdCoiro, sans courtesy) :D

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/271174_2003272519239_1166370261_31939890_1966190_n .jpg

SplinterOz
11 July 2011, 0449
Ted are you sure that one has enough wires ?? :)

Allen_okc
11 July 2011, 0528
ya know it amazes me with you fellows here, i love your humor and yet suttle with the unexplained... you fellows are the greatest...

Tony Coiro
11 July 2011, 0917
Hahaha, it looks much cleaner now Ted, thank you very much, I just wish you could see the empty cans of Guinness just outside the view of the camera. :D I will say, having done one 6S8P this way, I am really happy with it. All connections soldered and heat shrunk and (stifle your laughter) I don't see any way it could fail.

Nuts & Volts
13 July 2011, 0518
Oh Ted...:)


You have added Turnigy 5000mAh 4S1P 14.8v 20C hardcase pack (USA Warehouse) to your watch list in www.hobbyking.com and this is an email to let you know that we have received a shipment just now!
Click below to view this item;
Turnigy 5000mAh 4S1P 14.8v 20C hardcase pack (USA Warehouse) (http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=18631)

teddillard
13 July 2011, 1104
Dear Ted
This is an email from hobbyking's product checker #xxx
I would like to inform you that your product(s) have been double checked and are now packed in their box and sent to the dispatch area. Please allow 48hrs for any tracking information to be displayed/updated.

Thanks for your support!
Hobbyking.com

Nuts & Volts
13 July 2011, 1131
!!!evil grin

Warren
14 July 2011, 0719
Thought you might enjoy seeing how people with a platinum card do battery modules. :-)

http://photos.plasmaboyracing.com/LiPol-Module/box3

This came from a link on everyone's favorite blog. I know the engineers here find JR insufferable. But I know little enough about EV's to sit through his stuff to pick up a bit of information now and then. I especially like the industry gossip.

http://jackrickard.blogspot.com/2011/07/batteries-and-things.html

teddillard
14 July 2011, 0739
Plasmaboy ROCKS. I saw his link on the Manzanita site, they've done a lot of work for him. (The Manzanita BMS has even caught Jack's eye, from reports I hear... :D)

DaveAK
14 July 2011, 0856
Plasmaboy ROCKS. I saw his link on the Manzanita site, they've done a lot of work for him. (The Manzanita BMS has even caught Jack's eye, from reports I hear... :D)
That should make for an interesting summary of what he takes hours to say in a video. :)

teddillard
25 July 2011, 1612
Batteries and charger is here! Time to start chargin'

The manual is a download from the HobbyKing site (wish I knew that while I was waitin' for my STUFF) and there's this awesome intro video:

<iframe width="640" height="390" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/i17V5jb3aPU" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Off to read up...

DRZ400
26 July 2011, 0720
I've been using this charger for about 2 years now for rc, great unit. Used it 5-6 times to balance my 24 Calbs prior to installing the mini-bms modules (really nice bms).

teddillard
26 July 2011, 0829
Cool! There was a cheaper version by HobbyKing but it was on backorder. This thing looks great. Now that I see what it can do, specifically, balance and report on all the individual cells in the pack, I'm rethinking my connectors to make it so I can disconnect and readout each pack individually it something is acting wonky. That way I can see each cell... which I wouldn't be able to do if it was a permanent balance lead connection across the whole module.

For the record, I'm using the term "cell" for each cell within a pack. "Pack" refers to the hard-case, 4s battery pack, and "module" is four of the packs paralleled together. Then the modules get seriesed, to make a, uh, ummmm. "Battery pack"? :confused:

DRZ400
26 July 2011, 1125
The only problem I had with this charger was if I set the charger rate above 1.5 amps, some cells went above 3.8 volts during charge (my cellog alarmed). If I set the charger to 1 ah charge no cell ever exceeded 3.65v. Because of this I charged at 7 amps for 90% of charge then dialed back to 1 ah charge for balance. This was only with my 40AH calbs, with my 3ah Lipos it does not exhibit this problem.

teddillard
27 July 2011, 0407
Connector decisions. Going with these awesome 4mm bullets to mate up with the ones on the batteries (the power leads):
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__9283__HXT_4mm_Gold_Connector_w_Protector_10pcs_s et_.html

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/catalog/AM1009x10.jpg

So these will feed into the 4-1 pigtail for each paralleled module.

teddillard
31 July 2011, 1557
Battery testing- reposting from my blog:

So here’s the final strategy.

The idea is to discharge the packs down to a safe level, so starting with topping up the charge is kind of a waste of time. Instead, I decided to just hit them right off with a discharge for two hours… which, coincidentally, brings them down to around 3.1-2.9V. Their safe minimum. Right away, 2 1/2 hours saved.

So, at the end of that, starting usually at around 3.8V, we’re ending up with, for example, cell voltages of 3.26 – 3.14 – 3.07 – 3.06. Not bad. And, they balance out to within .01V by the time they’re back up to 3.5V. Total elapsed time is about two hours for the discharge, and about an hour for the charge.

One comment. One thing I learned early on with digital cameras, you’ve got to label (and number) your batteries. There’s always one battery in a pack that’s bad, and, simple as it seems, if you don’t label them you have no way to track their performance, especially over their lifetime. Simple housekeeping…

The link is here: http://evmc2.wordpress.com/2011/07/31/dept-of-watching-grass-grow-testing-the-turnigy-part-two/

DaveAK
02 August 2011, 0937
OK, question for ya Ted. :D Why does the hard pack cost half the price of a soft pack? What gives?

Those packs you've got seem like a real bargin! (Out of stock again though.)

teddillard
02 August 2011, 1003
OK, question for ya Ted. :D Why does the hard pack cost half the price of a soft pack? What gives?

Those packs you've got seem like a real bargin! (Out of stock again though.)

I dunno... the hard cases are a relatively new product from what I hear, trying to address the RC car racing regulations about enclosing lipo for safety. So far they're testing out very well.

DaveAK
02 August 2011, 1013
I dunno... the hard cases are a relatively new product from what I hear, trying to address the RC car racing regulations about enclosing lipo for safety. So far they're testing out very well.
I'm pricing up various options out of curiosity as prices change over time. Those hard cases you've got work out at about 75% of my CALBs!! I wonder if that's a (nondisclosed) promotional price or if they'll stay that way.

Looking forward to you getting it all wired up.

teddillard
02 August 2011, 1034
You and me both! :D

I'm wondering if because they're 4s it makes them cheaper to make, what with QC and all. Fewer cells to fail... but just a wild guess. I haven't been looking at the RC market for any period of time, so I have no read on pricing changes or what to expect.

teddillard
06 August 2011, 1252
I'm down to my #20 pack, and so far, no duds. Which is kind of surprising. I ordered two extra packs because I've been told by pretty much everybody that you can expect a 10% out of the box dud rate. This makes the cheap price of these things even more mysterious. :confused:

The testing I settled on was to discharge the packs first, using the charger. They start at around 3.9V, and get down to around 3.7 in about an hour. So far, by the charger readout, the variation at any given time has been no more than .01V +/-, even packs that I discharged further.

RC passed through and took a look at the setup and approved... :cool:

teddillard
07 August 2011, 1412
The balance tab "headers":

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/285044_2361211669228_1218396040_32934955_2058026_n .jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/285119_2361212029237_1218396040_32934956_902405_n. jpg

I wish I could take credit for this soldering, but the truth is I can barely see that stuff, nevermind make those little bridges. My friend David came by and did the final bit after I got 90% of it done. It took him 10 minutes. Woulda taken me a week. :D

Tested out perfect, too.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/205976_2361263750530_1218396040_32935067_5303584_n .jpg

Nuts & Volts
07 August 2011, 1818
Where did you get those PCBs from? Did you have to solder all those JST headers on each board? I like them and am very jealous that is why i ask :) I bet Conisan would love some of those too.

Also make sure to put some insulating tape on the back of those boards if you haven't already thought of that :)

teddillard
07 August 2011, 1911
Lemmee see... the JST connectors came from DigiKey, the pigtails came from AllBattery. The boards were just a project board I cut up. I soldered all of them to the board and the pigtails, and David did the bridging.

...and yeah, we've been trying to come up with the best way to either pot them or wrap them, or something.

Thanks, Kyle!

Nuts & Volts
07 August 2011, 1937
Very cool! I keep forgetting to utilize project boards and solder to make your own "PCBs". I have some male JST connectors to connect my paralleled batteries to my cell-logs. I need to get around to doing that...

If this setup works well for you, I will probably steal this setup for a Nanotech booster pack.

The maiden voyage of this bike will be epicness!

teddillard
08 August 2011, 0312
Yeah, I don't know any better... :D If someone were to make up some actual PCBs that just had strips down the entire board, one pin apart, that would be awesome for something like this. You could just cut to fit, and wouldn't have to solder all those bridges. Maybe there's something like that out there...

edit: uh. yeah. It's called, are you ready for this? Stripboard.
http://www.futurlec.com/ProtoBoards.shtml

http://www.futurlec.com/Pictures/STPBRD2.jpg

SplinterOz
08 August 2011, 0333
Yeah, I don't know any better... :D If someone were to make up some actual PCBs that just had strips down the entire board, one pin apart, that would be awesome for something like this. You could just cut to fit, and wouldn't have to solder all those bridges. Maybe there's something like that out there...

edit: uh. yeah. It's called, are you ready for this? Stripboard.
http://www.futurlec.com/ProtoBoards.shtml


LOL.... love it Ted... I have a pile of that stuff here.

DaveAK
08 August 2011, 0947
OK, so that explains the solder. I just assumed you were beefing up the traces on the stripboard.

teddillard
09 August 2011, 0411
Harnesses...

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/284492_2365329932182_1218396040_32940953_3971343_n .jpg

Just need heatshrink on the bullets, now.

teddillard
10 August 2011, 0404
Finished harnesses:

https://s-hphotos-sjc1.fbcdn.net/226133_2367770353191_1218396040_32943864_3446945_n .jpg

(yellow leads are for the charger connections for each module)

Final "potting" solution:

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/229631_2367770553196_1218396040_32943865_386347_n. jpg

(...just a dip in a shallow tray of that liquid tape stuff.)

I DO believe I have everything ready to actually hook these puppies together! :O

larryrose11
10 August 2011, 0451
Good work Ted. You clearly have learned a lot from other's expirence / mistakes. Keep it up!

Allen_okc
10 August 2011, 0621
very clean work Ted...

teddillard
10 August 2011, 0842
Good work Ted. You clearly have learned a lot from other's expirence / mistakes. Keep it up!

Thanks! I owe it all to remotecontact... on the experience part anyway... :D

Tony Coiro
10 August 2011, 1706
I thought about doing lipo balancing like that, I ended up soldering all the leads together (you know, so it looks like a bomb). The only issue I can think of with that is if a balance connector pops out, there's no good way to know or detect you have a pack going out a balance. Add something to prevent them from possibly falling out and I'll give it my seal of approval.
http://allthingsordinary.se/images/original/569__seal-of-approval.jpg?1256695294

Remotecontact
12 August 2011, 1337
Lol Tony

Minimum 10 characters to post!?, booo

teddillard
14 August 2011, 0421
Wrapping this up, here is the whole mess on the bike:

http://evmc2.files.wordpress.com/2011/08/picture-1.png?w=640&h=426

The charging connections for each module are yellow, bundled with the balance tabs.

It's safe, but it ain't pretty. Yet.

The first testing- a few trips around the block: No heat buildup, modules are within .01V of each other (16.00V or so).

...continuing the lipo story on the build thread:
http://www.elmoto.net/showthread.php?615-Vintage-Cafe-RD350/page19

teddillard
21 August 2011, 1103
12V power supply hack from $14 eBay XBox PowerBrick FTW! (thanks to, guess who... yes. REMOTECONTACT! :D)

Jump the red and blue, black and yellow are pos/neg 12.5V, 16a.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/305474_2397569418149_1218396040_32985863_2642061_n .jpg