View Full Version : Testing kelly controllers

28 October 2011, 1925
I'm trying to confirm the status of a Kelly KDH07601A 72V controller, and I'm having trouble fining a way to make a satisfactory go/no go test without wiring the entire system up and turning on the juice.
I've tried putting 12.4V to connector J2 pins 1 & 2 and get a big fat nothing from the controller and green LED. I can get the green LED to light by putting power to J1 pin 5 and GND but this is just lighting the LED, correct?

Any other tips or ideas are appreciated.

28 October 2011, 2038
At a minimum I would suggest hooking up B+ and B- to whatever minimum pack voltage is for that particular controller.

29 October 2011, 0849
I can rig something up and test pack voltage. Forgive my ignorance, this is my first experience with controllers, what should happen when pack voltage is connected?

29 October 2011, 1033
Well I have no experience with Kelly controllers, but I'm thinking that it might just not turn on if it doesn't sense pack voltage. I could be wrong. With my Sevcon I can test the controller and program it, but I've always connected a dummy pack, (I just used a bench top power supply). Then I just need to energize the 'on' pin and it powers up. I must admit that I probably could do it with just the on pin and ground as the Sevcon controls the contactor, and so battery pack is disconnected at first. I don't know how the Kelly operates though, so if it were me testing I would at least try a dummy pack.

29 October 2011, 1059
The Kelly support page is here with the manuals and wiring diagrams.

The direct link to your manual is here:

Everything you need is there, from what I saw.

29 October 2011, 1231
Thanks for the links Ted, the manual is where I was getting myself confused last night (note to self: a few beers does *not* help electronics diagnosis :) )
I will try more in-depth testing when the chance presents itself. It will get figured out.

29 October 2011, 1240
One problem is I'm trying to ascertain if the controller works without spending money buying any of the cables or computer interface equipment, which complicates things. Don't want to spend more money on sketchy equipment

29 October 2011, 1258
Not following you. If you have the components- motor, throttle, some sort of battery pack, you don't need a computer interface do you? Just hook the thing up with test leads. Follow the manual, stay away from the beer (wait. this is TED talkin?) and give it a try. It'd take less time that trying some workaround, and give you definitive results.

29 October 2011, 1315
Hear ya ted, no more half-measures or beer. (Well...maybe)

Nuts & Volts
30 October 2011, 0840
All you need is a 24V battery pack (18V minimum), a motor, and a throttle. Hook up the battery pack to B+ and B-. Then jumper from B+ to the enable pin on the same side of the controller this will turn the unit on. Then hook your throttle up to whatever pins match the type of throttle you have. Hook the motor up to M- and B+, and secure it so that it will not roll away or break anything. Twist the throttle a little and see what happens.

31 October 2011, 1301
the only thing you will have to change with the computer is the throttle type - its like they think you automatically have a ohms throttle...

the min amps is generally set at 20 percent and the max amps is set to 80 percent... i would change the min to 0 or 10 percent... i didnt really feel any difference with the max amps set to a 100 percent...

31 October 2011, 1304
the voltage throttle +0 to +5 volt had three stages in it;

off amps - min amps and max amps...

use the ohms throttle to get a smoother throttling control...