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Nuts & Volts
23 December 2011, 1627
Hey folks,

It's time to start sharing go around number 2. I am upgrading my first chassis, a 1989 Suzuki Katana 600, to a newer sportbike, a 2003 Yamaha R6. The R6 offers me a better handling and, for me, more comfortable ride. The Katana was old and the suspension, tires and other parts were going bad. So i decided to upgrade instead of bothering to fix up and old bike. I rode the R6 for 3 months and tore it apart last week (see next posts).

Taking all the electric bits from the Katana and adding some new parts should make this build relatively simple. My biggest task is to design and build the battery mount. I ordered the metal yesterday and refining my design. This will be made out of 6061 aluminum, more info too come.

Design goals;
100 mile range (@55mph)
< 360lbs
Storage for a backpack and more

Parts list;
Motor - Agni 95R
Controller - Alltrax 7245
Batteries - 110 EIG 20Ah cells (8.2kWh)
DC/DC - Vicor 150W, 100V to 12Vunit

Here's a look at the layout

http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z160/buckboom00/Electric%20R6/2011-12-20_15-11-31_667.jpg

http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z160/buckboom00/Electric%20R6/2011-12-20_15-06-04_69.jpg
Motor will be mounted higher to line up the chain. Controller will most likely be mounted behind the motor on the right side of the bike.

Nuts & Volts
23 December 2011, 1628
R6 Teardown

Started tearing down the R6 chassis. Started with the front end; fairing, windscreen, dash, wiring, and fairing stay. Then went to the tail removing the fairing, taillight, seats, ECU tray and wiring. After removing the tank I was able to drain the gas, oil and coolant lines. Radiator and exhaust were removed as well. Only thing left to do is pop off the chain and drop the engine. Everything came off pretty well. Only thing I had issues with was removing the clutch lever and linkage. I figured it out, but ended up having to drill out one bolt. Otherwise a painless process

Here are some pictures of the process...
http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z160/buckboom00/R6%20engine%20and%20parts/DSC04523.jpg
http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z160/buckboom00/R6%20engine%20and%20parts/DSC04528.jpg

Not going to lie I really enjoy cranking away at this thing. Getting dirty, finding the right tool, using the the wrong tool, its all part of the experience. Oh and just got an early Christmas present...a front stand. This will help me out a ton when working with this bike and future bikes

http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z160/buckboom00/R6%20engine%20and%20parts/2011-12-19_11-30-20_930.jpg

Nuts & Volts
01 January 2012, 1453
Mount design

I have been working on the battery box design in CAD for a few weeks now. I will be using 1/8" x 3/4" x 3/4" angled 6061 Aluminum pieces for the outer frame and 1/8" x 3/4" pieces for reinforce/triangulate the boxes. I am going to cut and tack these pieces together and have a friend of my dad's finish off the welds. 1/4" alum will be used at the frame attachment points to help handle shear stresses at those points (6 of them, not CAD'd). Their are still some pieces missing from the CAD, but these pictures give you an idea of the design an layout. 90% of the added weight will be less than 25" off the ground and 50 degree of lean is still possible with this setup (~5-6" of ground clearance).

The motor mount will be a machined piece of 1/4" 6061 Alum. I decided to mount to the outer motor holes because this will lower the counter force created by the motor torque and the more attachment points will help carry the load. The outer holes also move the motor 15mm so that the weight is more centered on the mount in order to reduce the twisting forces on the mount. The motor mount will also tie into the front battery box and will be support on the backside as well (not CAD'd). Total mounting material will be about 15lbs for all the components.

Thoughts, questions?? enjoy

http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z160/buckboom00/Electric%20R6/CAD1.png

http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z160/buckboom00/Electric%20R6/CAD5.png

http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z160/buckboom00/Electric%20R6/CAD4.png

http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z160/buckboom00/Electric%20R6/CAD2.png

Nuts & Volts
14 February 2012, 1918
I have been finding a little bit of time between classes, work and the OSU team to work on the R6 design.

Biggest thing is that I have been able to source 18 more EIG cells for a good price. These don't come with the nice mounting, but it gives me a chance to do some design more. Pack will now be 21s6p or roughly 9.2-9.5kWh total instead of 22s5p 8.2kWh. This will add about 25lbs so R6 will be about 375-390lbs now, but will a pack capable of 70-90kW peak, less voltage sag (ie more energy), and more range. It also made packaging a little more straightforward, but still tricky. Here is where I am at now.

http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z160/buckboom00/Electric%20R6/newCAD1.png

http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z160/buckboom00/Electric%20R6/newCAD2.png
3 rows of 42 cells on right under the motor with 8in of ground clearance as I learned I had way too much weight down low. The wheel clearance of 2" in the front is a little bit of a concern, but I believe I should be ok for most riding. It will just make contact if I bottom the forks out with 4.7in of travel depending on some pack design. If this becomes a problem I will mod the swingarm like Rippertonl (http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php/ripperton-electric-track-bike-41173p48.html) to push the motor back 1-3" and the batteries will move too. The lower pack will bolt into the motor mount, the original engine mounts and the top battery. The top pack will have two stack of 42 cells and will attached to the upper portion of the motor mount, the original engine mounts on the sides of the machine and maybe somewhere upfront on the frame.

Motor mount is also done, but don't have any pictures yet. I am hoping to practice some welding this weekend along with cutting the rest of the metal for the battery boxes. Working on a wiring diagram this week. Hacking Noah's diagram to create my own, thanks buddy!

http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z160/buckboom00/Electric%20R6/newCAD3.png

podolefsky
14 February 2012, 2108
Dude - those CAD drawings look great. I wish I had solidworks (and CAD skills).

Nice chassis too. Can't wait to see it come together.

Coninsan
15 February 2012, 0418
Sweet Solidworks job :)

Can't wait to see the CAD in solid metal and the R6 on the road.

yankee1919
15 February 2012, 0911
Nuts and Volts,

Top notch design! I have a question- did know what was the frame weight minus electrics? I wanted to see what the weight comparison was from gas engine vs electric motor and batteries.

Looking good
Tony
Los Angeles

moon
15 February 2012, 0932
Awesome modeling job.

Sent from my ADR6350 using Tapatalk

Nuts & Volts
15 February 2012, 1019
Nuts and Volts,

Top notch design! I have a question- did know what was the frame weight minus electrics? I wanted to see what the weight comparison was from gas engine vs electric motor and batteries.

Looking good
Tony
Los Angeles

Oh do I have the weights :D Here is a screenshot of things that came off of my motorcycle. I missed a few things like coolant weight. I can also put up weights for various parts that will be staying on the chassis. Let me know.
http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z160/buckboom00/Electric%20R6/weightremovedfromR6.jpg

I will be adding about 208lbs in electric parts.

yankee1919
15 February 2012, 1223
Nuts and Volts,

Thank you for the info, I believe it is critical what is coming off and what is going in.

Keep it coming.
Tony

Nuts & Volts
17 February 2012, 1011
I haven't gotten to much wiring diagram, but I think I have figured out my start up sequence. I didn't want to add any new switches to the bike as I get lazy about installing them and just end up taping the switch to the handlebars :)

So I will have the key switch turn on and off my vicor DC/DC through its enable pin. My contactor will be controlled with the Kill switch which will interrupt the 12V+ to the contactor economizer. Then I want to use the start (push button) button to turn my alltrax on (needs B+. I was think I would need to use a self-latching 12V relay like Noah does. Is it possible to find a self latching relay with a 12V control and 100V switched side? Or will I need a LV self-latching plus a HV regular relay?

I could also just have the alltrax turn on when the contactor is switched, but I want to be able to program and talk to the alltrax without contactors being closed. I will do some searching later today.

podolefsky
17 February 2012, 1029
That sounds like a good set up. The Vicor is on when gate-in is floating, so you'll need to wire it to the key switch so that gate-in goes to ground with switch "off", and floats with switch "on". You probably already know that, just pointing it out since you might have to mod your key switch to get it to work.

I used a 12V automotive LV relay for the latch, and a separate SSR to control HV to the controller. The latch is in the circuit, not in the relay itself.

If you can find a DPST or DPDT relay with a 12V coil, you can make it self latching and HV. Just use one of the outputs for the 12V latch, and the other for controller HV. I didn't do that because I already had the other relays, and I couldn't find a DPST SSR with the right spec.

Nuts & Volts
17 February 2012, 1038
That sounds like a good set up. The Vicor is on when gate-in is floating, so you'll need to wire it to the key switch so that gate-in goes to ground with switch "off", and floats with switch "on". You probably already know that, just pointing it out since you might have to mod your key switch to get it to work.

I used a 12V automotive LV relay for the latch, and a separate SSR to control HV to the controller. The latch is in the circuit, not in the relay itself.

If you can find a DPST or DPDT relay with a 12V coil, you can make it self latching and HV. Just use one of the outputs for the 12V latch, and the other for controller HV. I didn't do that because I already had the other relays, and I couldn't find a DPST SSR with the right spec.

Ok cool, so I'm on the right path. I need to find some dedicated time to soak this all in and to draw this all out.

Nuts & Volts
13 March 2012, 1952
It's been way to long. School is a horrible monster, especially during winter quarter. One more exam Thursday and I will have a solid 10 days for my El Moto. So be on guard because I should have some updates for ya soon.

Things I have done in the last few weeks. Tested all of the new EIG cells. Got between 18.1 and 19Ah out of them. All but 2-3 are in good shape and I will try to purchase more, but seller doesnt want to ship any more with USPS. So if anyone in the Oakland area would like to pick them up for me and ship them, let me know. I can compensate, PM me.

Other EIG cells are wired up for 21s and ready to install. Started wiring up some relays, soldered my Vicor up, and purchased some other LV things. Motor mount just needs two more holes in it for where it bolts into the battery boxes. Battery mounts are cut. They need sized and welded. I have re-soldered my 48V server supplies to be more robust and flexible. I am modding the internal trimmer pots in them in order to set the voltage lower for charging, parts are in the mail. Modded the Magura throttle in order to get it to slid further up the handlebar. Sorry no pictures yet.

Big steps next week
-weld battery boxes
-mount controller
-LV wiring
-first ride :D

Back to Studying (aka watching basketball with a textbook open haha)

electriKAT
14 March 2012, 0939
Congratulations. I can't wait to see some video.

Suggestion: if you're not actually studying, why not work on the elmoto with a text book open?

Nuts & Volts
14 March 2012, 0953
Congratulations. I can't wait to see some video.

Suggestion: if you're not actually studying, why not work on the elmoto with a text book open?

Bikes and tools are about 20min from school :( It's tough to work on things when parts/tools are in two different places. That's what has kept me from taking study breaks to work on it.

On the other hand, have been doing some other battery design while I have been studying. Hopefully in a few months I can share the other El Moto I have been working on :D

Nuts & Volts
10 August 2012, 0907
About time for an update. Been busy all summer and lucky El Motos have been a big part of it.

First major bit of news is that I made it to the Vetter Challenge at Mid-Ohio a few weeks again. Had the pleasure of meeting both Noah and Mark at the event, great buys and great builders. The tough news is that I ended up crashing during the ride. Overreacted after taking my eye of the road and grabbed all of the front brakes (which are very strong on an R6). This slowed me down some, but the tire lost traction and I could maintain balance. I bailed off and almost managed to stand up, but had too much momentuum and went into a single roll. The bike is scratched up now and a battery was very close to being damaged, but it is holding up just fine now. I was going about 45mph according to the GPS. The main reason for the crash is that I was unfamiliar with riding, my bike, and group riding since I had only gotten the bike running the day before. Lesson learned I suppose.

http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z160/buckboom00/Electric%20R6/image001.jpg

Anyways this convinced me to take some more time and upgrade the battery box. I took some inspiration from Adam's (RemoteContact) Ninja Battery box and a bit of my first CAD models. 3/8" plate on each side that is threaded for M10x1.5 bolts. 1/4" cross members with #10-24 bolts threaded into the 3/8" plate. I will be adding a lower section that can handle 1/3 more battery. That section will be getting welded up in a shop this fall hopefully. All 6061-T651 Aluminum. Over the winter I will probably lighten the side plates with a cool pattern.
http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z160/buckboom00/Electric%20R6/DSC04633.jpg
http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z160/buckboom00/Electric%20R6/DSC04636.jpg
http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z160/buckboom00/Electric%20R6/DSC04634.jpg

Rest of this summer I will be upgrading some charging options and hopefully getting started on bodywork for it. And of course get some riding in. Things are starting to look good for this machine.

As it sits (plus tank and seat) it weighs about 340-350lbs with 77V and 6.1kWh and can go about 60-70 miles easily. It is geared for 90mph right now and I'll see if it can hit that sometime. I have about 40HP peak, but never really use more than 30HP peak while riding. I'll get some performance numbers next week hopefully.

picaroon
10 August 2012, 1445
I like updates with lots of photo's

I'd almost forgotten you were using an agni, as I am too so I will be really interested in your performance numbers. My lambretta when finished is very different to your R6 but it will have a similar weight and voltage and will be running with an agni too.

Hope you dont mind me asking you a couple of questions. What rpm will your motor be running at to get 90mph? And at that gear ratio what sort of amps does the motor need to keep up with the traffic going from 0-30mph?

Your new battery box looks good. I can't really tell in the photos but are the bottom cross members taking all the weight of your cells? I only mention it because its quite difficult to predict thread stripping strength especially if it has been hand drilled and tapped. I know some aluminium can be a PITA to drill and tap, it can tear and rip rather than cut clean. If the bolts go in from the sides and your thread is counter bored then its all down to the shear strength of the bolt shaft which is more predictable.


It is geared for 90mph right now and I'll see if it can hit that sometime

I'm glad you haven't lost any confidence :)

Nuts & Volts
10 August 2012, 1535
I like updates with lots of photo's

I'd almost forgotten you were using an agni, as I am too so I will be really interested in your performance numbers. My lambretta when finished is very different to your R6 but it will have a similar weight and voltage and will be running with an agni too.

Hope you dont mind me asking you a couple of questions. What rpm will your motor be running at to get 90mph? And at that gear ratio what sort of amps does the motor need to keep up with the traffic going from 0-30mph?

Your new battery box looks good. I can't really tell in the photos but are the bottom cross members taking all the weight of your cells? I only mention it because its quite difficult to predict thread stripping strength especially if it has been hand drilled and tapped. I know some aluminium can be a PITA to drill and tap, it can tear and rip rather than cut clean. If the bolts go in from the sides and your thread is counter bored then its all down to the shear strength of the bolt shaft which is more predictable.



I'm glad you haven't lost any confidence :)

I'll speak on the battery box first. Yes the battery weight (100lbs) is being supported by the 3 cross members on the bottom. Each have four 10-24in (12 total) that were hand drilled and tapped. 6061 Aluminum is quite strong (good tensile strength, which is important when looking at thread slipping) and very machinable. So threading it works pretty well. If something goes wrong there should still be two cross members there to make it home. I will check to see if any threads strip after all my rides.

Bolts are much stronger in tension and that is why I choose to load them that way. I also plan to have the box welded in the future so having it bolted together will make it easier to send to someone to weld up. That will be much stronger. Thanks for the word of concern thou, I did think about it a bit before going for it.

As for the gearing I am at 4.16 (50/12) right now, but have a 68 tooth sprocket to install :D So I am geared for 97mph at 5467RPM (77V*71RPM/V). I want to gear it for more like 77mph @5.23 (68/13), but need to see how efficient I am at highway speeds.

For the 18 miles I did ride it, I actually had nice acceleration (@385A Alltrax motor limit). I can't speak to how much motor current I actually use, but I can do some calculations to figure it out once I get data. But with 14% more current and 24% higher gearing should have so real nice acceleration on such a light machine. I will try to get some good data next week, my CA at 5Hz should give velocity and time info so I can calculate reliable acceleration.

Oh my 100V DC/DC doesn't seem to want to work at 87V so I am trying to find a permanent 12V battery. Looking for 4 A123 20Ah cells and a 4s charge for them at the moment. I will also test the 100V Vicor off the bike to see whats going on.

podolefsky
10 August 2012, 1943
That's looking really good. Should be a lot more solid, and those frame sliders should help too.

I can't say it enough times - really glad you're OK (and the bike).

Remotecontact
11 August 2012, 2229
Jeez, sorry to hear about the fall. Happy you're alright!

Kyle, we need to hang out again sometime.

Nuts & Volts
12 August 2012, 0809
Thanks guys.

Adam, there is a small chance that I may be up in the Boston area Sept 15-17th. I won't know until my classes start in two weeks thou

Nuts & Volts
13 August 2012, 1921
Did some fine tuning on the bike tonight. Finally got around to adjusting the suspension. Most things were at standard setting, but the front compression damping was maxed out and that had to be why the front end was so stiff. I know have a lot better feel of the road and gives me more confidence on the machine. Everything else I put pretty much neutral. I think I'm going to soften the rear a little bit still thou because the bike is about 50 lbs under its weight weight.

Went for a ride as well. Got the bike up to 76mph according to the GPS. She had more, but I didn't wanna push to hard as I get used to the machine. And I didn't wanna kill my Agni. I took 26kW peak from the battery, so probably 22kW at the wheel. Not sure if that was at top speed or while accelerating, will look at the data. I'm sure I could hit close to 85mph. Pretty good for un-faired bike (windscreen and front fairing). That is the most I have ever hit the batteries with (4.5C, on the 6.1kWh pack) and I'm pretty impressed they only sagged to 3.517V/cell. Also consider I'm only running 4AWG wire battery side which probably doesn't really like 350A. I have 6" of 2AWG going to the each motor lead, so my systems not all crap :D

Bike handled well. However I'm still nervous on the bike since my crash, so I am slowly trusting the tires to allow me to lean. The bike is very stable and responds well. It likes to stay upright more than lean, but that was expected with the weight so low. I think all the bike weight is actually below the height of the tires. Will report more on this when I get some more confidence from seat time.

Still trying to figure out the front brakes thou. There is significant drag on the brakes. I get barely a 1/3 spin out of the front wheel when I try to spin it by hand. I took the calipers off and re-installed them and that helped a little bit. I may try realigning the wheel in the axle because this may be misaligning the rotors in the calipers. Additionally my front brake lever uses only about 1/3 of its travel and then the brakes are at full. This occurs even when I adjust to the lowest setting. I would really like more travel so that I have finer control of the brakes. Any suggestions? Maybe a new master cylinder or some adjustment of the lever cable. I'm going to go take a closer look at it now and maybe some more internet searching.

Nuts & Volts
13 August 2012, 1952
Well I decided to pop the scale out and get some weight front and back. To my surprise this thing is a feather. 173.3 front, 153.2 back for a grand total of 326.5lbs!

I will have about 30 more pounds of batteries and framing. Will lose about 2-4lbs from the tank if I ever upgrade/cut it. Will save 3 more lbs when I swap out the 12V battery for DC/DC and fix the rats nest of 12V wiring. However I will have 5-10lbs of bodywork to add as well. Looks like I might be able to make my original weight target of 360lbs saving over 70lbs off of the Electric Katana! It feels great to actually have some good things coming out of this bike!

picaroon
14 August 2012, 0320
Glad you have had a ride out, thanks for the info.

Have you advanced the timing on your agni at all? And did you find the neutral timing of the brush holder yourself or use the timing marks?
Do you check for brush wear often?

Sorry for all the motor questions! I'm trying to get an idea of what it will be like to be using mine

Nuts & Volts
14 August 2012, 0617
Glad you have had a ride out, thanks for the info.

Have you advanced the timing on your agni at all? And did you find the neutral timing of the brush holder yourself or use the timing marks?
Do you check for brush wear often?

Sorry for all the motor questions! I'm trying to get an idea of what it will be like to be using mine

I am at neutral right now (ie marks are lined up). I tried advance once, but didnt trust that I did it right so I moved it back. It's on my list to advance the motor about 1mm. I have not checked the brushes much, I have never gone over 20kW until this past week and I have only put about 1500 miles on the motor. I will check them after a month or so of riding. Motor case doesn't get too hot for me to touch so I'm confident that it is running pretty well.

How do you find neutral yourself?

picaroon
14 August 2012, 0752
This is a copy from a post I read on diyelectriccar. From what I gather Jozzer is an agni master.


Originally Posted by*Jozzer*

That sounds right - assuming the timing mark is actually at neutral
With a new holder fitted you should verify this, the marks may no longer be correct..
To do this, connect to a low voltage power source, either one with a dial for "current" or in addition to a DC clamp meter. Spin the motor up and adjust the holder until the lowest possible current is being drawn. Mark this as neutral.
Then, turn the holder AGAINST/INTO the direction of rotation until the marks are 1mm apart. I usually allow 1mm of advance up to around 300A peak, up to 2mm if the motor is to be abused at 400A+ for short periods..

Steve


Here is the link to the thread, there is a few other agni related things on there

http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php/luigi-goes-electric-fiat-500-r-65753p9.html


I am going to advance my timing about 1mm also and I will limit the amps to below 300. Probably at 200amps limit for a while until I have put a few miles on it. This is still all theory for me, I've not got much further than collecting the parts for my build!

picaroon
14 August 2012, 0808
Matt of Arc ev racing told me when I visited him that it was easy to damage an agni if the timing isn't adjusted, but that is much more important for racing than road use. Thats why I am interested in hearing your experience with road use.

I'm sure you have the agni manual, but if anyone else wants a read it can be downloaded from here.

http://www.agnimotors.com/home/index.php?option=com_frontpage&Itemid=47

Nuts & Volts
14 August 2012, 0828
Thanks for the links. I should run advance because I am running over 300A peak on that thing. Especially with speed control of my Alltrax it is harder to limit the current with the throttle

Nuts & Volts
14 August 2012, 1202
Just purchased one of these tail lights (http://www.customled.com/products/integrators/_03-_05_R6____06_R6S/_03-_05_r6____06_r6s.htm). Mine just aren't bright enough and I am a bit more concerned about my safety after recent incidents. Spending, but I think it will be worth it in the long run.

larryrose11
14 August 2012, 2015
Kyle, good to hear your OK, your bike too. Never good to hear about a wreck. As for the drag on the front brakes, is there a return spring on the calipers?
A spring to separate the pads from the rotors?

Nuts & Volts
09 December 2012, 1914
The R6 has been torn down for the winter. Luckily I have an empty basement so I can work on the bike over the winter without much hassle.

I have two damaged cells, both still with voltage/capacity, but both are slightly swollen and punctured. One is from my crash where the road scrapped the corner of my pack and just barely scrapped through one pouch. The other cell seems to have been sliced open on the side. I could smell it and feel that it was hardening inside. Not too bad, all voltages are still within 0.02V of each other, even the damaged cells.

Winter Hopes (can't call them plans haha)
-Install new rear sprocket -DONE
-swap out dead cells - DONE
-install DC/DC converter
-reprogram Alltrax throttle
-paint tank
-stainless bolts
-12V system fuse box
-construct lower battery frame (for one or two 21s modules)
-properly tie motor mount into battery frame

Wishes
-upgrade to LED headlights (would be custom)
-upgrade to AC
-swap to 428 chain maybe...

I am continually looking to upgrade to an AC system, but can't quite find a system that I like or can get my hands on yet (availability/cost).

Nuts & Volts
09 January 2013, 1112
3995

One of those might be mine :D

for those less informed haha
http://www.rinehartmotion.com/products.html

podolefsky
09 January 2013, 1126
ohhhhh.....can i have the other one?

Nuts & Volts
09 January 2013, 1140
ohhhhh.....can i have the other one?

It's been claimed already unfortunately...maybe you can live vicariously through mine!!! :o

frodus
09 January 2013, 1158
Pretty eh? I'll have it tested and ship out soon.

Nuts & Volts
10 January 2013, 0937
Looking like I will be running a 96s (350V) pack of EIG cells that will be 7kWh. I should be able to pull about 70kW from the pack (in warm weather). Right now I'm searching around and getting quotes for some 70kW peak motors. Parker, Hyten, Emrax, and the GM eAssist motors are on my list right now.

Will work out the charger later. Right now I am in between a Zivan or an Eltek. Both greater than 3kW charge rates.

Total machine weight is looking like between 360-380lbs (DC machine at 330lbs). Controller is about 12lbs heavier and motor is anywhere from 5lbs to 30lbs heavier. Also about 15 more lbs of battery than was on the machine.

CaptainKlapton
12 January 2013, 0800
Sounds like it is going to be one mean machine N&V! From where did you source the EIG cells?

Nuts & Volts
12 January 2013, 0914
Sounds like it is going to be one mean machine N&V! From where did you source the EIG cells?

I got them from a buddy on here. They originally came from a company that switched suppliers and had extra stock. Chef and Jay64 also have some cells from the same stock. You can source them from EIG direct. They have a US distributor service, but they won't necessary deal with everyone or every quantity order.

Going to try some frame scanning today with a Kinect. I'll post up some details tomorrow.

jonescg
12 January 2013, 1817
High voltage for the win! Great stuff Kyle, and I think the EIG cells are perfect for a good performing road bike. They don't have the crazy power of LiCo, but the specific energy density is pretty hard to beat. PM100DX inverter?

The most fun is had when it's more dangerous :D

Nuts & Volts
12 January 2013, 2150
High voltage for the win! Great stuff Kyle, and I think the EIG cells are perfect for a good performing road bike. They don't have the crazy power of LiCo, but the specific energy density is pretty hard to beat. PM100DX inverter?

The most fun is had when it's more dangerous :D

The EIG have been great. I've never pushed them passed 4C yet. They don't like temps under 5degC thou (sag more than normal). I may try to get some more cells. A 10.8kWh pack would be plenty for the 100kW controller :D That's well down the road thou haha.

Yea it's a PM100DX. Being inspected at the moment, very kindly, by the great folks at Rinehart. I really have to thank everyone who has helped out making this project (and its predecessors) a success.

__Tango
12 January 2013, 2241
Frame scanning with a kinect? Please s'plain. :)

Nuts & Volts
14 January 2013, 0933
Frame scanning with a kinect? Please s'plain. :)

I would have had an update on this, but I don't have a laptop in the house with a compatible video card. So I'll just link to the DIYelectriccar post, http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php/diy-3d-scannning-microsoft-kinect-81650.html

I got the kinect to display video like a camera, but the laptops I tried can't handle the scan (which uses two cameras) with the Reconstruct Me software. Going to try to borrow a friends laptop sometime to get a scan of the R6 tail and frame.

Also going to do the gas tank and maybe some bodywork.

__Tango
14 January 2013, 1112
sweet!

jonescg
14 January 2013, 2124
The EIG have been great. I've never pushed them passed 4C yet. They don't like temps under 5degC thou (sag more than normal). I may try to get some more cells. A 10.8kWh pack would be plenty for the 100kW controller :D That's well down the road thou haha.

Let me know how they go in hot weather. Sounds like if they don't like the cold they will do well in Western Australia. Katherine and I drove down south hoping to escape the heat of the New Year holiday. It was just as hot :D We had 50'C in the cabin of the CRX. No aircon, I might add. So when the time comes to pack 37 kWh in the car, I will want to ensure it's going to be OK with the hot climate.

Hugues
15 January 2013, 0002
I would have had an update on this, but I don't have a laptop in the house with a compatible video card. So I'll just link to the DIYelectriccar post, http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php/diy-3d-scannning-microsoft-kinect-81650.html

I got the kinect to display video like a camera, but the laptops I tried can't handle the scan (which uses two cameras) with the Reconstruct Me software. Going to try to borrow a friends laptop sometime to get a scan of the R6 tail and frame.

Also going to do the gas tank and maybe some bodywork.


thanks a lot for the link, quite interesting. I might go down that route if they charge me too much to scan my build. Then better invest that money in a new windows laptop and Kinext camera.

thanks.

Nuts & Volts
27 January 2013, 1027
The beautiful controller is in
http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z160/buckboom00/20130124_171535_zpsc4083356.jpg

It will be going in the tail with some simple bent steel mounts for the front and rear. Easy to make and stronger than the aluminum pieces I was thinking of using. Will look something like this
http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z160/buckboom00/20130126_154740_zps10d351e7.jpg

I really really like this controller. It uses top of the line components in it and has a very simple layout of things. Great service and customer support. Three thumbs up so far for Rinehart!

jonescg
27 January 2013, 1758
Yep, my exact reasons for going with Larry in the end. It you start at the top of the line with your components, all other problems are yours and yours alone :) Is that a new sub-frame Kyle? Looks like it was made for the job!

That was a second-handy inverter too right?

Nuts & Volts
27 January 2013, 1829
Yep, my exact reasons for going with Larry in the end. It you start at the top of the line with your components, all other problems are yours and yours alone :) Is that a new sub-frame Kyle? Looks like it was made for the job!

That was a second-handy inverter too right?

No that is the stock subframe, but it fits perfectly tucked inside. There is a cross member I need to machine out of the way to tuck the controller up higher in the rear, but that shouldn't be a problem....don't think my original steel pieces will work so I am going to think about some other ways to mount the unit up.

Yes the inverter is from an old prototype vehicle that i assume was just being decommissioned.

teddillard
28 January 2013, 0258
I would have had an update on this, but I don't have a laptop in the house with a compatible video card. So I'll just link to the DIYelectriccar post, http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php/diy-3d-scannning-microsoft-kinect-81650.html

I got the kinect to display video like a camera, but the laptops I tried can't handle the scan (which uses two cameras) with the Reconstruct Me software. Going to try to borrow a friends laptop sometime to get a scan of the R6 tail and frame.

Also going to do the gas tank and maybe some bodywork.

As I said on my blog, file this in the Dept of Holy Crap! This is incredible stuff, man. There have been few times that I really feel like I'm living in the 21st Century, but this is one of them.

You homebrew boys just keep up your tinkerin' lol!

Nuts & Volts
29 January 2013, 1622
As some of you may have read I finally purchased an eAssist motor. (www.elmoto.net/showthread.php?t=2676) It is a 115V, 15kW, 30lb AC Induction motor used in Hybrid vehicles. I want to run it first with a Curtis controller to get some initial data about the motor. This is where I want some advice.

I can get a 72V300Arms Curtis for ~$500 or a 108V550Arms for ~$800. I think I want to get the larger one because I can test higher current levels to see how the motor handles it. And more power is always fun. The other thing involved here is actually using a Curtis to autotune a motor. I'm going to read through the manual and hopefully learn more about this. Anyone see a reason not to get the higher power controller?

Eventually I would love to use the motor with the PM100DX which would be on 300V 350Arms. First step is determine if motor can handle higher power (doing with with the Curtis), second step is to test the insulation strength and third is to see if RMS is willing to tune the motor. So I will be using high speed not higher torque to make more power which should improve efficiency (when comparing PM100 to a Curtis).

Also an Agni motor and Alltrax controller will be on sale soon!

lugnut
29 January 2013, 2148
Anyone see a reason not to get the higher power controller?

No, but you may not be able to take full advantage of the 550 Amps. The 108 Volts should serve you better. I don't know the design of this eAssist machine, but from the specs in the referenced thread, I suspect you'll find the limit may be less than 300 Amps due to breakdown torque. Unlike DC motors and some PM motors, you can't continue to load induction motors to increase current. I like what you're doing with this and am interested, so keep us posted.

I also wonder how you'll handle the rotor speed feedback. Planning on installing an encoder?

frodus
29 January 2013, 2224
they're both 108V the 6 indicates it's 108V max. They're both 72V controllers, but the 108V is where they shut down.

Nuts & Volts
29 January 2013, 2247
No, but you may not be able to take full advantage of the 550 Amps. The 108 Volts should serve you better. I don't know the design of this eAssist machine, but from the specs in the referenced thread, I suspect you'll find the limit may be less than 300 Amps due to breakdown torque. Unlike DC motors and some PM motors, you can't continue to load induction motors to increase current. I like what you're doing with this and am interested, so keep us posted.

I also wonder how you'll handle the rotor speed feedback. Planning on installing an encoder?

I'll have to read more about the breakdown torque. I assumed temperature was the power limit on induction machines since saturation doesn't exist. I enjoy reading some no worries. I am really just hoping to find it handles 300-350Arms. It takes 230Arms in its original application.

Edit: Is this just when slip becomes too large and speed control breaks down. So no torque is created?

And yes if it doesn't have the appropriate speed sensor I will ebay a quality encoder and install it. Wonder if it would be possible to use a converter PCB circuit to modify the speed signal instead...probably just as tricky as adding an encoder.

lugnut
30 January 2013, 0530
Edit: Is this just when slip becomes too large and speed control breaks down. So no torque is created?

That is the result of loading the motor too close to BDT when operating from a VFD, not the cause. BDT is inherent to the induction motor and there when driven from a VFD or 60Hz mains. It is the maximum torque the induction motor is capable of producing, typically about 3 times rated torque and oddly enough, greater than starting torque (fixed frequency).

Nuts & Volts
03 March 2013, 0958
Got the Agni and Alltrax sold so I have the money to keep moving forward. Waiting until the shipment is in the buyers hands before spending the money thou.

Thought somethings over and I am pretty sure I'm going with a Curtis 1238-7501 controller to run the eAssist. I think I am also going to run 27s4p (7.88kWh) to keep get the voltage and RPM of the motor as high as possible. And also get as much energy and power capabilities on board as possible.

Here are some shoots of the CAD some far. Got the material for the motor mounts, but need the time now. Also have the material for the lower battery shelf, but again need the time/motivation to get to it.

http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z160/buckboom00/Electric%20R6/R6eAssistCAD1_zps03f6e3c1.jpg

Controller is in green, 27s modules in yellow and eAssist motor in red there. Still plenty of room in the frame for other bits/storage.

http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z160/buckboom00/Electric%20R6/R6eAssistCAD2_zpse8170ec5.jpg

Still need to get some pieces to mount the controller, but that is fairly straightforward.

http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z160/buckboom00/Electric%20R6/R6eAssistCAD3_zpsa5e203ff-1.jpg

Nuts & Volts
17 March 2013, 1345
I've got quite a collection going here!

http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z160/buckboom00/Electric%20R6/20130316_210708_zpsb55c9722.jpg


(PS - Thanks to ARC EV Racing for the Curtis!)

yankee1919
20 March 2013, 1100
I like the duct tape.
:o

Nuts & Volts
23 April 2013, 0830
Getting there one part at a time. Motor mounted and chain alignment is pretty good. Ordering some front sprockets and fenner drive trantorque components
http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z160/buckboom00/Electric%20R6/20130422_181020_zpseacd317b.jpg (http://s194.photobucket.com/user/buckboom00/media/Electric%20R6/20130422_181020_zpseacd317b.jpg.html)

http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z160/buckboom00/Electric%20R6/20130422_181035_zpsc274f0b0.jpg (http://s194.photobucket.com/user/buckboom00/media/Electric%20R6/20130422_181035_zpsc274f0b0.jpg.html)


Planning to do some battery wiring later today or tomorrow in between studying. I think I have decided on 26s that way I have a few extra cells and can still charge them with my current Meanwell setup (right at 107V top). I'd lose 0.3kWh. I suppose it's more important to get on the road and be able to charge then perfecting everything.

Zero_Phobia
02 May 2013, 1316
Fantastic setup!

moon
02 May 2013, 1407
Very nice setup but do you think that lower motor mount is up to the task?

;)

Nuts & Volts
02 May 2013, 1611
Very nice setup but do you think that lower motor mount is up to the task?

;)

I thought we weren't allowed on El Moto unless we had a factor of safety of 40?

haha yea it could lose a bit of material, but 1.25" material was the easiest to get things to align and machine on my mill. Next winter I'll come back through and refine things.

In other news. I rewired my 4 battery packs into 26s strings. Need to balance a few cells out and get some all thread for them. 520 chain, keyless bushing and sprockets are in. Will hopefully get to machining the sprocket and lower battery box tomorrow afternoon. One thing at a time to get this puppy back on the road here soon

Nuts & Volts
09 August 2013, 1616
Even through the lack of updates, work has continued on this guy. I'm actually pretty damn close to having it running.

A bit of work went into upgrading the battery pack mount to hold another 26s EIG pack. I also spend a lot of time trying to work out a solid mount for the controller and HV boxes. I finally ended up using an old piece of 1/4" polycarbonate (or acrylic) to hold both.

http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z160/buckboom00/Electric%20R6/20130807_145317_zpse48bcd63.jpg (http://s194.photobucket.com/user/buckboom00/media/Electric%20R6/20130807_145317_zpse48bcd63.jpg.html)

http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z160/buckboom00/Electric%20R6/20130808_154411_zps3710a0ad.jpg (http://s194.photobucket.com/user/buckboom00/media/Electric%20R6/20130808_154411_zps3710a0ad.jpg.html)

http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z160/buckboom00/Electric%20R6/20130808_154445_zps68a821b6.jpg (http://s194.photobucket.com/user/buckboom00/media/Electric%20R6/20130808_154445_zps68a821b6.jpg.html)

You can also see below the work I did on the HV boxes. One side is positive and contains a 400A fuse, a EV200 contactor, precharge contactor, and a 100V relay for the Curtis. The other box is the negative side and 12V electronics. This contains the Vicor DC/DC, Easter Beaver 12V power center (http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Wiring_Kits/Fuseboxes/PC-8/pc-8.html), shunt and EV200 contactor. Right now the precharge contactor and Neg contactor are unused, but will be but to use when I upgrade to the Rinehart controller.

http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z160/buckboom00/Electric%20R6/20130808_152444_zpsb866e6ef.jpg (http://s194.photobucket.com/user/buckboom00/media/Electric%20R6/20130808_152444_zpsb866e6ef.jpg.html)
http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z160/buckboom00/Electric%20R6/20130808_152953_zps79836529.jpg (http://s194.photobucket.com/user/buckboom00/media/Electric%20R6/20130808_152953_zps79836529.jpg.html)

Next week I will be attempting to program the Curtis, cable is on route. I am waiting on a buddy to make the motor resolver to encoder PCB board for me. This will probably be a few more weeks unfortunately. I did test the 12V system and everything functions as expected. I need on more ring terminal for the negative pack to controller cable before I turn the controller on. The motor terminals need trimmed a bit to accommodate the motor ring terminals.

Nuts & Volts
09 August 2013, 1629
Decided to paint the tank today as well. Just threw on two rattle can coats. Nothing fancy at all, but it looks so much better than the ugly blue it used to be. I plan to replace it with a carbon piece in the future so I'm not too concerned with how it looks at the moment. I may paint all the cheap bodywork black just for the hell of it haha.


http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z160/buckboom00/Electric%20R6/20130809_191809_zps72e6ecf7.jpg (http://s194.photobucket.com/user/buckboom00/media/Electric%20R6/20130809_191809_zps72e6ecf7.jpg.html)

http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z160/buckboom00/Electric%20R6/20130809_191815_zps47845030.jpg (http://s194.photobucket.com/user/buckboom00/media/Electric%20R6/20130809_191815_zps47845030.jpg.html)

podolefsky
09 August 2013, 1811
Looks awesome man.

robo
09 August 2013, 1832
And you said you'd get bored if you knew it could be done :)

Nice to see it IS getting done...and nicely too!

jonescg
09 August 2013, 1908
That battery does look big. How's your ground clearance?

Nuts & Volts
09 August 2013, 2106
That battery does look big. How's your ground clearance?

Not too big, only 7.6kWh. Could get up to 13kWh on board with the controller in the tail. But no I havent thought about it haha. ;)

Right now I have 6in in front and rear on the battery with all parts on board but no rider. Also leaned it all the way over. Sliders and edge of the battery frame touch at about 70deg. It should be plenty. Front can come up about 0.5in and rear might be able to as well if needed.

frodus
11 August 2013, 1746
Looks great bud!

How are you cooling the curtis? the Vicor? I know the vicor will get warm. you're supposed to mount it to something metal like a heat sink.

Nuts & Volts
12 August 2013, 0632
Looks great bud!

How are you cooling the curtis? the Vicor? I know the vicor will get warm. you're supposed to mount it to something metal like a heat sink.

Right now the Vicor is not cooled. Im only pulling half power through it so that should help. Ill probably throw 2 small fans on it in the future. I can hook up a temp sensor to the CA so ill do that at least and quantify the situation first. Ideally yes it should have some sort of heatsink.

The Curtis is sitting right at the front of the bike and should get quite a bit of airflow at speed. Ill also only be running half power through it at first. So ill data log from it and see what temperatures im getting during the first couple of runs. Ill set the temperature limit a bit lower for the controller as well so it can self limit better. If needed ill get a liquid cooling plate and add it to the motor cooling loop (will be added later on).

It's all in the name of science, but im glad you brought it up.

frodus
12 August 2013, 0958
Just heat sink the vicor should be fine.

The Curtis are supposed to be heat sinked. Just the flat aluminum bottom won't do much for cooling. They get warm and throttle back. It needs something attached to it. Consider short heat sink of some sort that would take advantage of that airflow. Also... Slow speeds will do nothing to cool it.

Nuts & Volts
15 August 2013, 1257
Been buttoning up a few more things and testing the systems. I painted a few more pieces, see pics. Probably going to repaint the tank thou after a proper sanding. Decided to install the HID light into the low beam side and am really glad I did. It dropped current draw from 4.2 to 3.2A and greatly increases the light output. I've got be careful thou because it pulls 6.5A at start up and then settles after about 30sec to a minute. Still wanna do a LED headlight in the future drop down to 1.8A. Oh and I successfully trimmed the Vicor to output 13V for the system. For reference I also have a LED taillight and signals.

http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z160/buckboom00/Electric%20R6/20130815_142653_zps3e772a2e.jpg (http://s194.photobucket.com/user/buckboom00/media/Electric%20R6/20130815_142653_zps3e772a2e.jpg.html)

I trimmed the motor terminal a bit to fit the motor lugs. I added a thermistor to my Cycle Analogger and I'll place it various places on the bike to make sure things are staying in check. First place is near the DC/DC.

http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z160/buckboom00/Electric%20R6/20130814_194324_zpsc0915e75.jpg (http://s194.photobucket.com/user/buckboom00/media/Electric%20R6/20130814_194324_zpsc0915e75.jpg.html)

Working on getting a XP laptop so that I can talk to Curtis and make sure things are set right. The resolver to encoder board won't be in for another few week unfortunately...

picaroon
15 August 2013, 1530
Working on getting a XP laptop so that I can talk to Curtis and make sure things are set right. The resolver to encoder board won't be in for another few week unfortunately...

This may or may not help you but there is a XP mode in WINDOWS 7 to able you to run software that only runs on XP. I've only just found this out as my XP laptop I use for garage work is going a bit wonky. It opens up a few more options when looking for a bit better used laptop for me.
Don't take my word for it though as I haven't yet done it myself!

bjn
16 August 2013, 0106
It works for me. But if the laptop only has USB 3.0-ports, you can't use them in XP mode, since XP only supports USB 2.0 or lower.

I still think it's easier to work on a pure XP machine though.

Nuts & Volts
16 August 2013, 0747
Thanks guys. Ive read places that the Curtis software doesn't like to run in compatibility mode on Win7. I have an old lappy and a old couple of XP so I figure its just as easy to have a dedicated machine. I won't have any updates until next week as ill be in Indy for the weekend

Diethelm Rust
16 August 2013, 1052
Windows supplies a dedicated XP Mode program i.e. a virtual machine which I use to program my Curtis controller on my Win 7 x64 laptop.

Would require the installation of Virtual Machine and then run the XP Mode. Both found in this link windows-xp-mode-in-windows-7 (http://windows.microsoft.com/en-ZA/windows7/install-and-use-windows-xp-mode-in-windows-7)

Nuts & Volts
15 September 2013, 1607
I think I have El Moto ADD. I'm on to a new motor and controller now. Long story short I wanted my bike running this season and that just wasn't going to happen with the Curtis/eAssist combo. My buddy wasn't going to be able to get me a part made for another month or two and even then I would have to troubleshoot the system. I still may try the eAssist with a Sevcon this winter. So I purchased a Sevcon Size 4 and Zero ZF75-5 from Harlan (it's funny because all the main components on the bike are now from him haha). Just got the motor spinning up the other day.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OxUkLCbi1Ok

I'm waiting on two plates to be machined for the motor and for one more setting to get corrected. Then the bike should be ready to go. Controller is mounted in the tank with the heat sink angled so that air from the front hits the controller directly. Will get some pictures soon.

Nuts & Volts
24 October 2013, 1805
Just swapped my 520 chain for 420 to fix some chain to swingarm clearances. I was able to keep roughly the same gear ratio and save 3.3lbs. On top of that I just took it for a spin and was quite pleased. It ran much quieter and felt very very smooth on power. I am very happy with the setup right now. Unfortuntely it is getting too cold to ride anything more than just some weekend joy rides.

Also purchased a 5V20A meanwell clone to put in series with my 48V supplies to get the 108V to fully charge my pack. The 48V supplies could only be trimmed to get me about 105V so this should squeeze about 4-5 more Ah into the pack and give me a tad more range. The initial charge is happening now.

So initial efficiency numbers put me at about 115wh/mile at mostly highway (80% highway, 70mph) and about 95wh/mile at about a 50/50 split of highway city riding. These numbers come from the cycle analyst.

Still need to work some more on getting the rear suspension setup to ride smoother on the road, but it's getting there.

Got plenty of winter projects/upgrades planned right now which could turn this bike it a whole new machine come spring. Definitely going to have some bodywork by then me thinks.

Nuts & Volts
16 January 2014, 1448
Bored in the car so a quick little update.

Decided im going to be sticking with LV for the bike. Just a safer, simpler, and cheaper approach. I have 66 more EIG cells waiting for me in Louisville. This will give me 11.4kWh of those (26s6p) and 0.9kWh of nanotech A spec. I have a solid plan to package them all. Now just need to finish all the mount CAD.

Almost finished with a new single contactor box with current sensors instead of a shunt. Using an arduino to monitor and record those. This will be mounted behind the motor on the right side of the bike.

The controller is going to be mounted on the bottom of the bike to get the heatsink in some airflow

Also reworked some parts of the motor mounts to give more stiffness and make machining all parts simpler. Happy with the direction things are going

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/17/6egyqesy.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/17/qe5ume4u.jpg

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

Nuts & Volts
02 April 2014, 1822
Fits like a glove. These are 11 of the 13 nissan leaf modules fling in the R6.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/03/e3y9y7ej.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/03/zyry2ube.jpg

More to come this weekend.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

Nuts & Volts
03 April 2014, 1217
I wanted to provide a little bit more context.

I am currently going to be installing 13 Nissan Leaf Modules for a 26s pack. I will also eventually parallel a 940Wh 26s2p pack of Nanotech Aspec cells I purchased. I want to learn more about the current sharing between these packs.

I went with the Nissan modules for a few reasons; 1.) Have less money overall in the El moto ($1.3k vs $3k worth of EIG) 2.) Robust modules will service the elements and environment of a motorcycle better than the EIG packs 3.) One series string is better than the 4 parallel strings I had on the EIG bike, makes running no BMS a bit safer. 4.) Makes EIG cells available for my Honda Insight PHEV pack. 5.) The Nissan cells are a very easy install into the R6

I am also considering sell 3-6kWh of the EIG cells which I just bought. It depends on how many I can fit/need in the Honda Insight PHEV which I hope to know in a month or two.

I have a number of other changes/updates that I are better described in pictures. LV wiring has been updated, contactor box is complete, motor needs to small brackets machined, need to cut and machine a few busbars, mount the last two cells and then mount the controller in its new location. If other projects don't get in the way I may have the bike operational this weekend. I tend to lie thou haha.

Nuts & Volts
14 April 2014, 1034
Balancing the Nissan cells this week and waiting on a motor mount spacer to be machined. Need to get the motor in there before wiring can be connected and the controller can be mounted up. So still some waiting.

Pack balancing I am just going to do every module up to 4.15V using the PL8. All nanotech packs are balanced at 4.15V already.

Funny thing is that the 65Ah Nissan module and the 5Ah Nanotech Aspec cell have just about the same internal resistance. So a 10Ah pack of Nanotechs should reduce voltage sag at least by 50% because the Nanotech will take >60% of the current load. I think this will be a pretty good match.

5683

Most of the pack is installed. Was pretty to install using my motorcycle jack and a mallet to line things up. May take it back apart and paint the battery box black to increase the looks a bit.

Nuts & Volts
14 April 2014, 1036
Oh yea also just went with Alum busbars for the cells. I had the material on hand and figured it would be much easier to make these with a hand drill.

Nuts & Volts
18 October 2014, 0738
Been very dormant. Lots of personal life has gotten in my way, but I really want to start sharing more of my work now. So i started my blog back up with a good summary post of my life. The big thing is that I have moved to Orlando, FL. It's nice because I can ride and work on the bike all year long which is awesome!

Other updates is upgrade to a ZF75-7 motor from Zero and a size6 controller. The bike pulls very hard now. I also moved the 12V system from the contactor box to the front of the bike. Better use of space, eliminates some of the extra 12V wiring (saves some weight) and makes it easier to troubleshoot and care for the 12V system. I also installed a new front fairing that has made the bike more aerodynamic. I'm seeing 90-95 Wh/mile at 65-70mph speeds.

More detail here; http://goelectricgofast.wordpress.com/2014/10/18/back-at-it/

6032

6033

Stamen
28 October 2014, 0826
Good update I'm following. Lol

Nuts & Volts
08 January 2015, 0955
Got some bits of updates for y'all

Been riding for a couple months now done here in Florida. No problems at all with any of the systems. Few minor things here and there. My ride to work is 36miles and consist of ~30miles highway (10@70mph, 20@75), and the rest between 35-55mph. This consist of a good amount of hills on the last 15miles of riding. On a cold day (40degF) I get about 125 wh/mile and on warmer days (60-70degF) I can stay between 112-120 wh/mile. On some 65mph flat highways on warm days I am actually done around 90wh/mile.

On one trip I actually used 55Ah of my pack to go about 45miles (35@70mph+) and started to see increased voltage sag. So I knew I was at the end of my pack. I was hoping that the pack has more than 55Ah, but I think a rebalance and increasing the charge voltage (see below) is the reason I only got 55Ah out of the pack.

I have been able to get a few more Ahs into the bike thou, but increasing my charge voltage and tuning my Cycle Analyst. The CA was reading about 0.6V too high and I confirmed this with two Fluke meters at work. From there I increased my charge voltage back up to the Sevcon max (116.4V) and then past this point. I am now charging to 117.0V (as seen on the CA, calibrated with a fluke meter) and wont test higher until I get a chance to manually balance the pack again, 117.6V would be my max on 28s. The Sevcon still turns on and runs at 117V maybe due to some voltage drop in a relay, etc.

Additionally the pack seems to take the power demands well. On two separate rides I saw peak currents on 560A and 585A from the pack in 50-70degF weather. Each saw the voltage drop to 90.2V and 91.8V and at about ~50% SOC and ~90% SOC respectively. So basically peak battery power is around 52-54kW. It felt super fast on both occasions. Might look at the log files and read into the data more when I'm bored.

Hoping to install a fast charger (4400W) this weekend and then get the rest of the cell-log voltage taps installed soon. Will report back if those happen.

Stevo
08 January 2015, 1119
That's fantastic... how many commutes do you get per charge cycle?

Nuts & Volts
08 January 2015, 1251
That's fantastic... how many commutes do you get per charge cycle?

Only one. I use between 4000-4400Wh each way. So about 70-80% of the charge. I charge here at work and overnight. Takes about 6-7hrs to charge. With the new charger setup I hope to charger quicker when needed. More like 1hr on 220V. I also hope to get it down to 4hrs on 110V with a circuit to limit the current draw.

Spoonman
09 January 2015, 0333
That's sweet!

Nuts & Volts
06 April 2015, 0600
Figured I'd give another update. You may haven seen my max power draw has increased. I was able to pull 640A out of the battery doing a 0-80mph pull. Power peaked at about 60kW from the battery. Probably something like 54/55kW out of the motor. It pulls great.

I have also added a variable regen lever. This is simply a left handlebar master cylinder hooked up to a pressure transducer (150psi), Ripperton's original idea. I will probably upgrade to 300psi unit so that I can grab a bit harder without fear of damaging the sensor. That 0-5V signal is feed to the sevcon and used as the footbrake input. I tweaked the settings last night to give myself a much better feel. I use a linear curve and 0.75V to 4.5V as the usable input range. Regen has peaked at about 5kW and should be closer to 7kW with these new settings. I let it regen all the way down to 5mph. I may let it go lower, but previously the exit at lower speeds has been jerky. I will continue to increase the regen power until I start to get the rear to lock up and then I'll back it off. Thats the nice thing about this setup is that you can set it so its nearly impossible to lock the rear, unlike the mechanical system. Someday I may even get ride of the mechanical rear brakes.

A few weeks ago I also tweaked the Sevcon motor torque curve to give a bit more power at different speeds. I dont have enough experience riding at higher power levels, but it seat of the pants makes it feel faster. That is outlined here; Performance tuning a Zero SR (http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=4358.0)

Non-EV related I tweaked the suspension which is something I have never really done. The rear end of my bike is quite stiff and ideally still needs some preload taken out IMHO. This is due to the bike being lighter than stock also a bit more weight being concentrated on the front. I basically softed the rear by lowering both the rebound and compression. The rear has always felt sharp on the highway. This has made the ride into work more comfortable and I feel less fatigued when I arrive. Experimenting with other tweaks as well to try to learn about more about suspension tuning etc. I hope to have some new pictures this week as I just noticed this thread basically has none of the bike in its current state.

Stevo
06 April 2015, 1910
That would make a noticeable difference in handling, removing the rear disc and brake calliper would remove that unsprung weight, should improve handling quite a bit I would think.
Rear shock static sag should be around 3/4" (get someone to help you with a tape measure or yard stick, pull up on the rear of the bike, and measure the sag when you let go.)
Then, take the measurement of the rear end as it sits without a rider, and then with you sitting on it (full weight, feet on footpegs/hands on handlebars, kickstand up). Thats race sag. That's your baseline. But don't measure this until you dial in the static sag to 3/4".

How much lighter is the bike from stock?

Nuts & Volts
07 April 2015, 0537
As promised here are some pictures.

Overview of the bike as it sits. You can see my front fairing with the R6 touring windscreen which works quite well. The silver box in the front is my current battery assembly. The black box holds the contactor, fuse, and shunt. It also serves as the connection point for the charger leads.

And yes I know it needs a paint job to make it all pretty and stuff.
http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z160/buckboom00/Electric%20R6/3769D693-500D-47B3-BDB9-5EC6983E4773_zpsmjagqub1.jpg (http://s194.photobucket.com/user/buckboom00/media/Electric%20R6/3769D693-500D-47B3-BDB9-5EC6983E4773_zpsmjagqub1.jpg.html)

Here you can see the controller tucked up in the tank just above the batteries. Gets plenty of air flow through the front.
http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z160/buckboom00/Electric%20R6/1F4AABF0-D09A-4E8B-AA43-771058C48AB2_zpshrpvk9cz.jpg (http://s194.photobucket.com/user/buckboom00/media/Electric%20R6/1F4AABF0-D09A-4E8B-AA43-771058C48AB2_zpshrpvk9cz.jpg.html)

Here is the new regen setup. I wanted to use a nice master cylinder and lever, but it wouldn't clear my front stay and fairing when turning the bars. I have an extra Kawi ZX14 left handle master cylinder and shorty lever if anyone is interested. $60
http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z160/buckboom00/Electric%20R6/1B3BB954-742C-424C-BC5A-BB0BC7721769_zpsusvybewe.jpg (http://s194.photobucket.com/user/buckboom00/media/Electric%20R6/1B3BB954-742C-424C-BC5A-BB0BC7721769_zpsusvybewe.jpg.html)

View of the motor. I machined the rear motor and am running 420 chain.
http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z160/buckboom00/Electric%20R6/9E3495E0-ACEE-48C3-BBB9-F95EFBA36A3F_zpshh5cxwll.jpg (http://s194.photobucket.com/user/buckboom00/media/Electric%20R6/9E3495E0-ACEE-48C3-BBB9-F95EFBA36A3F_zpshh5cxwll.jpg.html)

Battery close up
http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z160/buckboom00/Electric%20R6/883770FF-1F58-42D0-8E35-50388B428F88_zpsji8xxpuz.jpg (http://s194.photobucket.com/user/buckboom00/media/Electric%20R6/883770FF-1F58-42D0-8E35-50388B428F88_zpsji8xxpuz.jpg.html)

Chargers under the front seat
http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z160/buckboom00/Electric%20R6/9664AC19-F6C2-4BE2-A04A-7E39AC62B21B_zpsfuemuqul.jpg (http://s194.photobucket.com/user/buckboom00/media/Electric%20R6/9664AC19-F6C2-4BE2-A04A-7E39AC62B21B_zpsfuemuqul.jpg.html)

Charging cable under the rear seat. Super easy to pull out and plug in
http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z160/buckboom00/Electric%20R6/7BC665C2-604B-4B10-923C-E1B02EC1F3D0_zpst3ekr4ez.jpg (http://s194.photobucket.com/user/buckboom00/media/Electric%20R6/7BC665C2-604B-4B10-923C-E1B02EC1F3D0_zpst3ekr4ez.jpg.html)

Let me know if anyone wants any other particular pictures
-Kyle