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mpipes
06 October 2015, 1323
I'm guessing when the manual says all faults must be cleared before any changes can be made in programming, they mean that quite literally as no changes seem to be sticking even though the handheld programmer is saying its writing to the controller.

Right now I have 3 faults - Open/Short on the contactor output, Throttle Wiper High, and motor temp sensor. None of these devices are connected yet so it's understandable to have these faults. The motor temp is the easy one. The throttle type is currently set for a POT by previous owner but I have a hall sensor type, I don't want to just plug in in case this is an issue. My system is 96V and the contactor driver is set for 33%, while my contactor coil is 12V. Again I don't want to apply power (at least not for a long duration) to avoid any problems.

I have some 120ohm resistors on hand I can use in place of the contactor and throttle just to resolve faults long enough to get into programming. Anyone see issues going that route?

I was basically trying to bench test the controller in the vehicle, adjust programming, etc but have nothing more than B- and KSI wired up at the moment.
It's looking like you need to have pretty much everything ready to roll at once before anything can be adjusted.

podolefsky
06 October 2015, 1821
I'm guessing you're using "Write Settings to Controller". That's not for programming individual settings, it's for cloning the entire program of another controller. When you do that, you're overwriting all the settings from a previously saved controller, which is probably why you're not seeing your changes. That's also why you need to have the faults cleared, so you don't overwrite the entire program while faults are active.

With the handheld, the settings are changed in the controller as soon as you change them in the programmer. You don't need to "write" to the controller.

About the throttle: When you connect the Hall, it needs to use the controller's +5V output (red/white wire), logic ground (blue/black), and throttle wiper (yellow/white). If you use the POT throttle high and low inputs you may have problems. The HPEVS wiring harness has quick disconnects so you can switch the throttle wiring for POT or Hall (at least the newer harnesses do).

mpipes
06 October 2015, 2019
BAHAHAHA.... Yep there's a reason the OEM programmer is for OEMs. :)

Thanks for the info Noah.

All is good.

Right now I have a Curtis ET-134 throttle, it's a wig wag type boat throttle so it has more connections than a regular electronic throttle. I'm using it for hand control of forward, reverse and adjustable regen. I have it powered off an external 12v battery for now. It reads 0-5v in both directions, 0v being in the middle. There's a wire for each forward and reverse, which switches 12v to the F/R inputs on the controller. I'll probably wire it so pulling back activates regen instead of reverse, then use a momentary switch for reverse.

podolefsky
07 October 2015, 0920
Glad to help.

Be careful on powering the ET throttle. The Curtis 1238 expects to get it's forward/reverse signals from a circuit grounded to B- (the logic ground is connected to B-, it is not isolated). You can use B+, or you can use the 12V supply on the Curtis. I'm not sure if it will work to use a separate 12V battery, since that battery isn't sharing ground with B-. You might be able to use the Curtis 12V supply, but it is not isolated so you don't want to mix it with other 12V systems, like if you use a DC/DC converter or a 12V battery connected to your lights, etc.

mpipes
07 October 2015, 1055
I will be powering it from the Curtis 12V supply and I/O ground. I bought the 1238 second hand and havent yet extended the I/O ground wire (cut short by previous owner) to the right length.

mpipes
08 October 2015, 2349
OK I've got 'er all wired up including the high current side of things. Throttle is powered off the Curtis 12V, referenced back to I/O ground.

I currently have no faults. Good news!

What I do have though, is a pretty audible hum/buzz/whine from the controller with no throttle input. It starts immediately upon powering KSI. If I leave it on like this, after about 1-2 minutes the contactor starts cycling pretty rapidly. I am using the Contactor Pull-in voltage set at 15% (12V contactor coil, 96V nominal system voltage, Battery Compensation is ON). Holding voltage is at 13% I havent tried increasing these yet , not sure if that would cause the issue.

Whatever is going on, it is not generating a fault.

Hugues
09 October 2015, 0313
Strange.
Never heard any sound from my Curtis controller.
From my contactor, yes.

mpipes
09 October 2015, 0657
It may be the contactor, I don't hear it when B+ is not connected at the pack.

mpipes
09 October 2015, 0734
Here's a short video of the buzz.

https://youtu.be/Uc6Zzyq6vnY

podolefsky
09 October 2015, 0821
That sounds like the contactor. They always buzz like that. It's the PWM.

As to the cycling, a 12V contactor is going to be problematic with anything above 48V. The duty cycle is too short for stable holding. Get a 48V coil contactor and set the duty cycle to 45% (max for a 48V LEV200 is 52.8V, and if your pack is freshly charged it's going to be up around 110-115V, thus 45% ~ 50V).

mpipes
09 October 2015, 1127
Thanks Noah, I'll get one on order. Since I'm out of town next week for work anyway the delay doesn't even bug me :) Actually 4 years into this project nothing is getting to me at this point LOL.

frodus
09 October 2015, 1426
That sounds like the contactor. They always buzz like that. It's the PWM.

As to the cycling, a 12V contactor is going to be problematic with anything above 48V. The duty cycle is too short for stable holding. Get a 48V coil contactor and set the duty cycle to 45% (max for a 48V LEV200 is 52.8V, and if your pack is freshly charged it's going to be up around 110-115V, thus 45% ~ 50V).
This.

12v is too low. Hpevs used to use 24v coils and moved to 48v for this issue.

mpipes
09 October 2015, 1736
Ok. Got another contactor on order. Dang, that is the last piece keeping me from spinning the wheel.

mpipes
18 October 2015, 1042
Back in town for just a day this weekend, long enough for me to get the new contactor installed.

I also wired in a push button and relay that activates the brake wiper when the ET- is pulled back in the reverse direction. Pushing the button (momentary) while pulling the throttle back turns off the relay thus feeding 0-5v to the throttle wiper while also sending 12v to the Reverse input on the controller.

Now my only issue is the External Output is slightly over at 220mA but I might be able to resolve this by powering the push button LED from 12v auxiliary instead of Curtis 12v logic.

This sound is music to my ears after 4 years! That carbon swing arm really amplifies the sound.

https://youtu.be/q8mdmuyMJS0