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GUFF
17 August 2010, 1831
Summary:

Phase 1 - Completed in November of 2009. Components listed below:

Etek-RT PMDC Motor
Alltrax 7245 Controller
72VDC System with 6 Werker WKA12-44CFR AGM Pba Batteries
Paktracker Battery Monitoring System
6 Individual 12V 6A ACI Super Chargers
500A Ameter Gauge (Motor Current) with shunt
Acewell Digital Instrument Gauge

Specs Below:

Top Speed: 45mph
Gear Ratio: 72 Rear/12 Front, 6:1
Weight: 550lbs
Range: 10-20 miles depending on speed
Drivetrain: 530 chain, no transmission

Finished Picture Below:

http://www.elmoto.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=99

Phase 2 - Started in November of 2009 and still in progress. Components listed below:

AC-20 AC Induction Motor
Curtis 1238-6501 Controller
72VDC System with 24 TS-60AHA Lithium Batteries
Elitheon Lithumate BMS
Delta-Q Qui-Q Charger with built in DC/DC Converter
Acewell Digital Instrument Gauge

Specs Below:

Top Speed: 110mph (calculated)
Gear Ratio: 60 Rear/12 Front, 5:1
Weight: Unknown
Range: 20-40 miles (estimated) depending on speed
Drivetrain: 420 chain, no transmission

Finished Picture Below:

Coming Soon

GUFF
21 August 2010, 2006
Making more progress and getting much closer to finishing...

VFR 750 Rear End Swap is complete. All thats left is to attach the brake line for the rear.

I found a bent left front fork (was wondering why the axle didnt want to drive home smoothly) and that is being replaced. I should have the new fork early this upcoming week. Once I get that on, the new bake pads will go into the freshly cleaned calipers for mounting.

As far as the battery rack goes, I have tried three different versions now and none seemed to work. However, I think I have something that will work now as shown in the pic below:

http://www.elmoto.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=195

GUFF
22 August 2010, 1739
I installed the new left front fork. The front axle slid in a lot easier this time and everything seems to align up better. I installed the new pads into the front calipers, installed the speed bleeders and then mounted both front calipers. I attached to the new S.S. brake line to the rear caliper and installed its speed bleeder as well. I also had to do some more machining to the rear wheel for better fitment. The wheel is a 2002 VFR800 while the swingarm is from a 95 VFR750. When you try to mount the wheel on the hub the bolts that hold the brake disc run into material from the wheel's mounting surface. I had to machine notches along these points so the wheel would lay flat against the hub like it is supposed to.

I now will focus completely on the battery rack/motor mount with a goal of getting it to the welder in a week.

GUFF
03 September 2010, 2020
I finished the final design of the rack in wood Thursday night

http://www.elmoto.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=287

The flat head bolts are threaded into the 1 inch square material which are tightened against a plate that will keep pressure on a majority of the TS cells. Smaller versions of this will be found in the front and to a limited extent the sides (not pictured). The wood mock up turned out well and there is plenty of room for all components. The cells were very secure and would not budge with the clamping action.

Bad news is when I installed my front brake calipers I found I still have a 1/8 inch gap most likely due from another bent fork. If you recall I recently installed a new left fork which corrected my 1/2 inch gap but 1/8 inch still remains. I think the right is bent. This whole front end I bought seems like it is trashed. Thats what I get for paying only $80 bucks, too good to be true.

Good news is I have anothe fork on the way that is verified straight. Hopefully this will be all good so I can button up my front end for good and install the rest of the front end components and controls!

Until then all this weekend will be cutting of the acutal metal rack along with fitment. Once I get as far as I can I will start the electrial side of thing by wiring up the batteries on the bench for a complete wire up job for a test run.

Next week I should be able to bring the rack to the welder and get some minor fabrication done. I think the rack will turn out well due to the work done up front.

GUFF
06 September 2010, 1857
Ok, I got the new right fork and installed it. The top tripple installed much easier as well as the axle. Still have about a 1/16 (maybe smaller) difference on the pad when comparing each side. I hope this will not lead to pad dragging, we shall see.

The rest of the weekend was spend on the rack, cutting the metal. I got about 75% done. I will need to get help locally sourcing and cutting 1/4 and 3/8 inch material to finish it.

http://www.elmoto.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=305

EZwryder
06 September 2010, 1924
Guff that VFR swingarm looks like da bomb in that bike. How did you determine that swap was possible? Is that a common mod on ICE bikes?

Did that model have linked brakes? Sorting that out now on my '93 Hurricane. I'll be simplifying the brakes extensively when they go back on.

GUFF
06 September 2010, 2005
Dale,

Yep, it is a common swap for this model CBR. I found multiple sources with info on it online. This VFR did not have linked brakes, standard sport bike setup.

EVcycle
07 September 2010, 0202
Looks like it is coming along nicely.

I just noticed that you wrote AC20 on the round box. I would have mixed them for sure!! :):)

Only2Jakes
07 September 2010, 0357
That's looking real good.
I was wondering though, what is that your using for the mount/rack>? looks interesting.

GUFF
19 September 2010, 1712
That's looking real good.
I was wondering though, what is that your using for the mount/rack>? looks interesting.

Thanks, the material is 80/20. Its a T-slotted extruded aluminum product used mainly in industrial environments. It easy to cut and bolts together with simple hand tools. I plan to go this route and once the rack is how I want it, I'll get it all welded up.

GUFF
19 September 2010, 1724
Brakes. They always seem to give me trouble. I found out my rear line was to short. Gonna have to get a custom cut one ordered. I worked on getting the front brakes done but could not get any pressure. I am getting air somewhere in the system. I am leaning towards the crush washers since I was using old ones (I know this is a no-no but its all I had lying around). I am going to order a dam box full of new copper ones tonight.

I mounted the front street fighter headlight assembly using some aluminum and pipe clamps along with some trusty zip ties. However, I did not like how flimsy the unit felt so I am going to look for some purpose built fork mounts.

I ended up mounting my old 900RR tail and added the undertail kit I had for it. It looks alot better but the fairings really need some paint. Oh well, time is limited, only a few weeks of riding season left.

I was able to get my plans to the metal shop so they can cut my aluminum plates. With any luck I will have them by next weekend. Until then I am working on tidying up the 12V system.

All in all a disapointing weekend but hopefully I will be done soon with this second phase of the conversion.

ZoomSmith
19 September 2010, 2027
Sounds like some good progress Guff. Can't wait to seem some pics of the street fighter front.

teddillard
20 September 2010, 0328
I got one of those brake bleeding suction kits- a vacuum pump that sucks the fluid out the caliper side. 90% of the time it works great, the other 10% I used Richard's tip of strapping down the brake lever overnight. One thing I've noticed on bleeding- as you work the system the air tends to break up- almost atomize into little bubbles and even almost foam. Once you get there, you have to just stop and wait for a day before tackling it again. You can, in theory, replace all the fluid at that point, but there always seems to be a little air left in some cranny...

GUFF
23 September 2010, 2005
Well good news, we got front brakes!

However, I did not start to build any pressure until after I replaced all of the used crush washers will new ones. After that, I started building pressure (not much but some) but could not build anymore. I decided to yank out the speed bleeders and replace with the original bleed valves (with some teflon tape on the threads). Worked like a charm. After only four cycles I had very firm pressure. I just zip tied the lever and titled the bike to the left full lock and will bleed again tomorrow night at the master cylinder. Hopefully that will get the rest of the bubbles out. My friend also suggested lightly tapping the brake lines with a open ended wrench starting at the calipers and working my way up to the mater cylinder banjo bolt. I did that before and it seemed to help as well.

I finished the mount for the instrumentation. I have the speedo and the curtis spy glass installed on it along with some switches. It turned out decent for the time I spent on it. I have a better one planned for the future.

Better headlight assembly mounting straps should arrive tomorrow along with a custom cut rear brake line. With any luck all will go smooth and quick with the install so I can finish my 12V wiring and start getting the high voltage wiring going while I wait for my metal panels to be finished.

EZwryder
23 September 2010, 2023
I know what you've been going through with the brakes. Your 900RR may be different, but I stripped out ten miles of brake line and hose and junked the Hurricane's linked brakes. I've kept the calipers but am running much simpler lines and activating two pistons per caliper. It has plenty of "woah girl."

GUFF
26 September 2010, 1731
@Dale - My brakes are not linked but I have ridden bikes with linked brakes before.

I made some progress this weekend on the bike.

Front fender is mounted. The new straps for the headlight assembly came in and they work great. Good to have the headlamp mounted now.

I also received the new custom cut rear brake line. It fits well. I have installed it and bleed the rear brake system.

After leaving my front brake lever compressed overnight, I awoke to a nice pool of brake fluid around my front left caliper bleeder valve. I also had some leakage around the master cylinder bleeder valve and my brake lever had a spongy feeling to it thanks to these two leaks. I am going to need to prolly redo the teflon tape on the front left bleeder valve and add tape to the master cylinder bleeder valve with another nice round of bleeding the front brakes. Nice...

I was able to get pretty much finish the 12V system wiring. All I really need now is those aluminum plates so I can mount the batteries. I will check on those this week.

I opened my chain I had purchased only to find I had been sold a used chain nice and full of grease and dirt. Blah...I cleaned it up the best I could so I wont get a big splatter when I first hit the throttle.

Another bummer was the fact that I could not get the chain adjustment to work on the VFR swingarm. I loosened the pinch bolt on the swingarm and slid the special tool around the hub's adjustment nut but it would not budge. Hmmm, not good. I tried tapping down on the tool with a hammer and it still did not budge. I am going to buy a large piece of pipe that will fit around the handle of the tool for more leverage. I may also try heating up the adjustment nut or even prying gently in between the seam of the hub carrier. If all else fails I will have to completely disasemble the hub and clean/relube. I am kicking myself for not doing this earlier especially since this is a known issue with VFRs.

http://www.elmoto.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=396

Only2Jakes
26 September 2010, 1738
It's looking amazing and it hasn't actually got any of the main components in yet haha!!
Awesome

GUFF
27 September 2010, 1832
@ Only2Jakes - Thanks, hope to actually mount the major components this week! I will keep my fingers crossed!

GUFF
27 September 2010, 1840
Well, no more mister nice Guff. I bought a big ass piece of pipe and attached this to my chain adjustment tool. After a few yanks (keep it clean Ted...) the rear hub moved! I breathed a sigh of relief and now I don't have to disasemble the rear hub which is a huge pain in the ass. I moved the chain adjustment setting to the middle so its ready when needed.

I also drained the brake fluid from the front system and retaped the left bleeder valve and then added some to the master cylinder bleeder valve. I did not see any leaks from the system when i re-bled the system. I just zipped tied the handle again and will leave it like that overnight. However, this time i wrapped the calipers in papper towels (master cylinder valve too) in case a leak forms. That way I don't have to remove the calipers/pads again and clean the brake fluid off of them. Not fun! Hopefully when I get those last bubbles out tomorrow all will be good. I will keep my fingers crossed (again)!

leencoo12
02 October 2010, 0114
Guff that VFR swingarm looks like da bomb in that bike. How did you determine that swap was possible? Is that a common mod on ICE bikes?

Did that model have linked brakes? Sorting that out now on my '93 Hurricane. I'll be simplifying the brakes extensively when they go back on.

Yep, it is a common swap for this model CBR. I found multiple sources with info on it online. This VFR did not have linked brakes, standard sport bike setup.

jazclrint
02 October 2010, 2123
Just for the archives, the VFR didn't get linked brakes until '98, when it became the 800.

GUFF
03 October 2010, 1909
http://www.elmoto.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=463

Well, I got my aluminum plating finally so I was able to start working on getting that done. I only have a few more things to mount then I am going to tackle the motor. I am saving the worst for last. Then it is all electrical from there.

GUFF
05 October 2010, 0932
Just got insurance today. $254/yr for liability and medical. No collision on the bike as it doubles the price. I plan to shop around some more before the start of next riding season. One of the bummers here in MI is the no fault requirement (adds $150) and they can base insurance rates partly on credit ratings (mine sucks right now).

jazclrint
05 October 2010, 1416
Just got insurance today. $254/yr for liability and medical. No collision on the bike as it doubles the price. I plan to shop around some more before the start of next riding season. One of the bummers here in MI is the no fault requirement (adds $150) and they can base insurance rates partly on credit ratings (mine sucks right now).

I've been happy with Gieco.

GUFF
03 April 2011, 1616
Hmmm...I haven't posted in awhile. I have been very busy this fall and winter.

Good news is I have made alot of progress on the bike recently. Everything is installed. Batteries, motor, controller, BMS, etc. I started testing the systems but ran into a few snags. The most serious one is how I can't get into the menu via serial connectivity for the Elithion Lithiumate BMS. When I connect to the BMS through my hyperterminal window this is all I read "D'de loves Ann".

Not sure what is going on there but I was expecting the numbered options for the menu system as described in the manual. I am pretty sure that a password is not required but I may be wrong.

I did go through the troubleshooting section for serial connection on the BMS as described below:

http://liionbms.com/cgi-bin/moin.py/StandardProducts/Lithiumate/Service/Troubleshooting/SerialPort

Everything checked out with the serial port so I am left scratching my head on this one. One thing is for sure, I need to get this fixed soon, my pack is getting low and I need to charge. However, I refuse to start the charger up until I know for sure that the high voltage cutoff is working.

Skeezmour
03 April 2011, 2228
Sorry to hear that about the BMS. I have never seen that one myself. Maybe Frodus will have an idea for you. If not I'll try and track down a possible fix for you.

GUFF
04 April 2011, 0725
Sorry to hear that about the BMS. I have never seen that one myself. Maybe Frodus will have an idea for you. If not I'll try and track down a possible fix for you.

Thanks, much appreciated!

I am going to try again tonight with a battery powered laptop. Maybe I have a ground loop somewhere which is effecting serial communications.

frodus
04 April 2011, 0835
Hey, contact me ASAP. I've seen that before. Its NOT your comm. Its set right.

PM me

GUFF
04 April 2011, 0851
Hey, contact me ASAP. I've seen that before. Its NOT your comm. Its set right.

PM me

PM Sent.

Thanks Travis!

GUFF
17 April 2011, 1819
Progress has somewhat slowed on the bike.

I am awaiting a my reprogrammed BMS from Elithion.

I also sent my controller back to Thunderstruck so I could get my correct controller.

When I orignally purchased my AC-20 setup they were out of 1238-7501 so they sent me a 1238-6501 instead.

I figured since I was waiting for the BMS I might as well swap it now.

Also, I ordered a new 66 tooth rear sprocket from Sprocket Specialists. That is absolute largest 420 pitch rear that can fit on my SSS.

Part of the reason I did this is for more torque :) and I am having chain clearance issues with the SSS. I moved my motor up in the mount and it helped but was still off.

If you look at my build, most of weight is up near the front. I am sure this is not helping the situation. My previous build had more battery weight but similar setup. However, my old build had a massive rear sprocket and a larger 530 pitch front. I was able to hug my Etek closer to the swingarm pivot because the motor did not stick out the side like my AC-20 does.

I think I read TED was putting weight on the bike to simulate a rider? How much do you usually use. I may try it to see if it improves.

Beyond that I am finishing my side panels to cover the bats.

I also just finished my SSR circuit so I can enable the KSI input on the Curtis controller using 12VDC. This will switch B+ to that line.

I will be doing the same except with a IGBT for my display switch (B+ Momentary).

A 20A inline current sensor was added to my charger B+ output line and will connect to my Lithuimate BMS. This is required for accurate "Coulomb Counting" for the BMS.

I was going to route the charger through the main 400+ Amp sensor but it was recommended against do so due to accuracy loss caused by the large spread in current ranges between charger and controller.

Other than that I have been doing some more bondo to the tank (never seen such a dented POS ever!) and soon to some of the tail. I also need to add support bracket to my streetfighter front. A front sprocket cover and chain guard will also need to be custom made. After its up and running with everything broken it I plan to take it all apart, pain the frame and body parts then send the rack to get welded.

GUFF
20 April 2011, 1855
Good News: BMS is back. It powers up normally and I can access the menu now when RS232 is active.
Bad News: Two banks failed to report. I found multiple bad cell boards. I wonder if this was caused when I tried to power up the incorrectly programmed BMS?

Another frustrating setback. The silver lining is I gained good insight in troubleshooting the system from this and feel much more comfortable for any future troubles.
I also ordered a few more connectors and terminal so I can rewire one of the communication harnesses I felt didn't turn out as good as it should have.

frodus
20 April 2011, 2236
probably a comm issue. How do you know the boards are bad?

feel free to email me or PM me.... I'll try to help

GUFF
21 April 2011, 0905
probably a comm issue. How do you know the boards are bad?

feel free to email me or PM me.... I'll try to help

I found the bad boards by going through the troubleshooting portion of Elithion's website.

I found that section of the website to be very helpfull and well setup.

I started here:

http://liionbms.com/cgi-bin/moin.py/StandardProducts/Lithiumate/Service/Troubleshooting/Banks/Missing/Bank

and worked my way to eventually checking the board by itself disconnected from the system as described here:

http://liionbms.com/cgi-bin/moin.py/StandardProducts/Lithiumate/Service/Testing/Cell_Board

I may have some questions about some of the settings while I wait for the new boards and connectors. Thanks for the help, you have been a great knowledge base.

frodus
21 April 2011, 0925
Any time I can help man.

Too bad about the boards, I still need to check mine. In the process of designing the packs right now. I'll be where you are soon enough.

GUFF
24 April 2011, 1709
Figured I would post and updated picture of my progress:

http://www.elmoto.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=1051&d=1303689804

Took a break from working on the bike this weekend. I have been working on it too much lately and after some frustrating event needed some time off. I will be back on it this up coming week. I should get my replacement BMS boards and connector/terms in so I can redo some of the BMS.

EVcycle
24 April 2011, 1805
Woof!

A manly bike! Are you going to polish all that Aluminum?

GUFF
26 April 2011, 1830
Woof!

A manly bike! Are you going to polish all that Aluminum?

Thanks Ed!

Prolly not. I want to paint the frame and alot of other components on the bike flat black with all body panels Honda Red. I plan to do so after I break in the bats and make sure everything is good!

GUFF
26 April 2011, 1907
I received my controller back and installed it.

My KSI circuit is done and it tested out good. I am getting 72VDC to the controller KSI input which is now controlled with 12VDC via a Solid State Relay. I was not able to test my momentary 72VDC Circuit for the display because it is displaying an error code "Main Contactor Did Not Close (Code 39)". I know why this is happening.

The Curtis is expecting to power my contactor through the controller. To do this it uses pins 13 (Coil Return) and pin 6 (Drive). Currently, my contactor is not powered by the controller. It is wired to my 12VDC system exactly as in phase one of the conversion. My guess is the controller needs to be measuring some current flow through the coil it expects to be there, hence the error message.

The problem is I don't know how much current it is expecting between those pins or even for sure if it works that way. I decided to measure the output of pin 13 and was measuring 72VDC. Manual says 2A Max for that driver line.

I don't want to power my coil with 72V from the controller because I am not sure if it may damage the coil economizer circuit.

I also don't want to power the supplied contactor with the controller because I would save energy using mine (1.5W to 12W difference). I also don't like going over the rating of the coil. I know the current will drop because I have the same load but higher supply voltage but such a high increase in voltage over the rated coil rating make me nervous.

I am sure Frodus has ran across this before...

My Current Coil is the Tyco EV200 with Coil Economizer Coil (about 120mA draw at 12VDC) is rated at 9-36VDC.
The Coil that came with the system is a Tyco LEV200 No Economizer ( .5A draw at 24VDC) is rated at 24VDC.

GUFF
26 April 2011, 1935
I just tried it with the supplied contactor. I do not get code 39 anymore but instead get "Main Contactor Welded (Code 38)".

So the controller must also look for B+ voltage following the coil power up sequence. Since my current contactor is controlled from my killswitch I left it on during the recent test when I got the message above. It makes sense, since it is seeing B+ before and after it energizes the coil, hence the welded contacts message.

So it looks like I don't have a choice on using the controller to power the contactor. I will most likely use the supplied contactor and wire the KSI circuit 12V control voltage to my killswtich/safety circuit instead. More wiring tomorrow then!

Sometimes I miss my Alltrax!

frodus
26 April 2011, 1957
72V will damage the economizer. I've done it :)

I'd use the LEV200. 12W isn't that much. It likely won't work either, because I think the Kelly is like the curtis, where it PWM's the coil from pack voltage anyway. It may be doing the same thing the economizer is doing, peak then reduce and hold a steady current.

Here's another thing you COULD do. Use a little 12V relay. Then have the controller control that little relay (a watt or two) and then have that use your 12V system to drive the EV200 contactor. Or vice versa. Use the LEV200 off the controller and have the KSI drive a relay that interrupts the contactor drive.

I've thought long and hard about this, and I've still gotta figure it out, since both my BMS and my Controller want to control the same thing.

DaveAK
26 April 2011, 2027
Can you program the controller not to use it's own supply to the contactor? I know you can do that with the Sevcon. (At least I think you can.)

GUFF
27 April 2011, 0908
@Frodus - Yeah I will probably do as you suggested and just use the LEV200 contactor. I will wire my kill switch to my KSI Solid State relay control input instead.

@Dave - Thunderstruck said they could not do that when they setup my controller. I wish I could though, then I could use my contactor. For now I will probably use the one they supplied and power it through the controller. I am eager to spin the tires!

Brutus
27 April 2011, 0940
i want to put a split seat conversion on my 99 cbr f4 i know i need to change out the subframe and i found a 99 cbr 900rr subframe and i was just wondering if it would fit on my bike.

The 900rr subframe will not fit your f4 without a lot of mods. Only 2001-2003 f4i split seat subframes will fit your 1999 f4. I did this mod on my wife's 2004 f4i and it is fairly simple it is easier to just buy the right parts and bolt it all on. Don't forget the battery tray/undertail is different, also your taillights and of course the seats and tail fairing too.
Hope that helps

GUFF
27 April 2011, 1923
Ok, I installed the LEV200 AND fired everything back up. No error codes, all is good there. However, that coil on the LEV200 is humming like a bee at what sounds like 1-8Khz or so. Line must be PWMing. God, it is $&#@ very annoying and ruins the complete silent EV thing. It's one thing hearing a little whine from the controller when it is driving the motor but I really don't find this acceptable at all in the long term.

Frodus, have you heard similar with your setup?

On the plus side the motor spins and boy does it seem hungry for some pavement!

DaveAK
27 April 2011, 2021
I'm getting a whine from mine as well, although I thought it was the controller. Could just as easily be the contactor I guess as the supply to it is PWM. I don't know how loud it is compared to yours, but I haven't given it too much thought.

GUFF
27 April 2011, 2032
It is LOUD! I am used to working with testing microphones since I work in a electronics lab and I feel its way too noisy!

My long term plan currently is to purchase the CORRECT coil rated contactor and if possible program that output line for 100% Duty cycle. I am confused as to why they would PWM anyways. My only guess is because they are using the incorrect rated coil with their contactor so they are PWM the line so it sees a lower average voltage. That just seems foolish to me so I doubt that is why but I am having a hard time thinking of a GOOD reason to do it.

DaveAK
27 April 2011, 2122
The Sevcon puts out 24V for the contactor so that's why it's PWMed, but if you're running the contactor at pack voltage then I have to agree with you as to why PWM it. One possibility is that a 72V nominal pack for example is obviously higher than that when fully charged, but I would have thought it would have a broad enough operating range to cope. Maybe Curtis are just playing it safe as they don't know what contactor you'll be using.

GUFF
29 April 2011, 1859
The Sevcon puts out 24V for the contactor so that's why it's PWMed, but if you're running the contactor at pack voltage then I have to agree with you as to why PWM it. One possibility is that a 72V nominal pack for example is obviously higher than that when fully charged, but I would have thought it would have a broad enough operating range to cope. Maybe Curtis are just playing it safe as they don't know what contactor you'll be using.

I think I figured it out.

According to the Curtis Manual these are the main settings that are related to my problem.

Pull In Voltage
Holding Voltage
Battery Voltage Compensated


You can set a higher pull in voltage to ensure contactor closure. Ok np there. You can also set a holding voltage. It seems Thunderstruck programmed the same voltage for both, full pack voltage. The holding voltage should be the contactors rated coil voltage. Going to the correct 24VDC should eliminate the noise. I tested this with my benchtop power supply. No noise at 24VDC.

I just need to reprogram my controller to the correct setting.

I also made progress on the BMS. I have the new boards along with the extra connectors/terminals. I rewired Bank 2 and replaced the negative end BMS board. When I fired it up the controller found the bank and it's cells no problem. So it definately was a bad board. I really think my faulty controller damaged some of these boards. At least that is my gut feeling after replacing and testing the bad boards. I will rewire the last bank tommorrow and then finialize the settings so I can test the charger and cell balancing.

I also need to wire the fault output to my Acelwell's oil pressure indicator.

DaveAK
29 April 2011, 2007
I've read somewhere that some controllers operate a contactor at say 24V and then drop down to 16V. I don't think the Sevcon does this, although it might, but it sounds as though that's exactly the way the Curtis works, and even gives you the flexibility of how to operate the contactor. Looks like you're on the right track!

GUFF
30 April 2011, 1854
I've read somewhere that some controllers operate a contactor at say 24V and then drop down to 16V. I don't think the Sevcon does this, although it might, but it sounds as though that's exactly the way the Curtis works, and even gives you the flexibility of how to operate the contactor. Looks like you're on the right track!

Yeppers! I plan to purchase a programmer next month. I will look at other settings in the manual so I will make sure I have a checklist ready. Maybe other settings are incorrect or set up wrong for my application?

Today I got the last bank working with the BMS. I initially replaced the bad positive end board and tried it out. No luck, no communication. Next I looked at the neg end board and noticed it was a positive end board that was marked as a negative end one. Hmmm. I swapped that one out and tried again. Nothing. Checked the positive end board again for that bank and found it was damaged! I only had one more spare positive end board so I was a little worried about another swap. I ended up doing it anyways and tried it out but it still didn't work. I took that board back off and did a visual inspection. I found the communication connector header was not soldered to the PCB! I touched it up with my Iron and reassembled. I fired it up and everything worked! I verified that the boards that were replaced are indeed damaged.

GUFF
05 May 2011, 2004
I did some more work on the bike recently:

Fixed a front right/left blinker problem.
Connected the Fault output of the Elithion Lithiumate BMS to my Acewell's oil pressure indicator
Finalized BMS Charge/Discharge settings:

Vcell-high - 3.6V
Vcell-max - 4.0V
Vcell-low - 3.0V
Vcell-min - 2.8V
Vcell-balance-min- 3.6V

I also enabled the fault output when I hit Vcell-low
Throttle range decrease will kick in when Vcell-min trigger LLIM on the BMS

I modified my circuit for my Curtis display switch. I am using another SSR now. I tested it and everything looks good. I double insulated the wiring and epoxy coated any exposed high voltage solder joints. That circuit board is then isolated from the rest in my box by a piece of plexiglass bonded in place. I really hate having to use high voltage as inputs for my controller. That is prolly my biggest complaint so far with the Curtis AC controllers.

Tomorrow the charger will be fired up for the first charge cycle. I will keep my PC talking to the BMS during. I will keep a close eye on it while it goes.

frodus
06 May 2011, 0811
i thought the enable pin was the only pack voltage input?

don't buy a programmer, just borrow it from me, I have a handheld we bought as a group, and a PC programmer I bought myself.

GUFF
06 May 2011, 1435
i thought the enable pin was the only pack voltage input?

don't buy a programmer, just borrow it from me, I have a handheld we bought as a group, and a PC programmer I bought myself.

Hi Frodus,

My Curtis Spyglass unit came with a switch which Thunderstruck shows tied to Bat +. I tried it with 12VDC but it didn't work which makes sense since my controller does not share a GND with my 12VDC system. I thought about maybe tacking on a wire to their +12Vout on their RS232 output but I haven't had time to try it, I would also want to check how much that line can source current wise. I doubt that switch input would take much, maybe I will meter it when I get time.

That would be awesome if I could borrow the handheld programmer. I can pay shipping both ways and donate 20 extra since I didn't help with the initial purchase like I should have. Thanks!

frodus
06 May 2011, 1450
what pin are you going to on the curtis?

try the 12V+ output on the curtis (same one as on the spyglass) first. That switch should be used with Low voltage anyway. I think the controller is looking for anything above 4.5V to register an ON and anything below 1.5V to register as an OFF. Its protected against internal shorts.

GUFF
06 May 2011, 1831
what pin are you going to on the curtis?

try the 12V+ output on the curtis (same one as on the spyglass) first. That switch should be used with Low voltage anyway. I think the controller is looking for anything above 4.5V to register an ON and anything below 1.5V to register as an OFF. Its protected against internal shorts.

Pin 10 is the switch input used to switch display screens on the spy glass. Yeah, I was scratching my head why they showed it that way on their schematic. I really don't want B+ up near the handlebars so I used the SSR to prevent that. I will definately try what you suggested when I get a chance.

GUFF
08 May 2011, 0755
Finally got the charger up and running. I struggled at first because I did not connect pins 2 and 7 together on the DeltaQ charger out connector. Those pins are for the optional thermistor. When one is not used they should be connected together. I didn't do that at first and was wondering why my charger was shutting down shortly after power up. I thought I had that worked out but I guess I was wrong.

Initial charge went well. BMS is shutting down the charger without any issues.

Balancing however is another story. I have a few cells that need some extra attention. I could have left the bike plugged in and let the balancing function take care of it but I don't want to wait a week. Instead I am using an extra DC power supply set to 3.5V to bring the low cells up. The cells boards will take care of the higher cells just fine, its the lower ones that I need to target.

I should have connected all my cells in parallel before assembling the pack. That would have been a quicker way to do this, instead one at a time.
Oh well, this will work and I won't have to take apart the pack which is a plus. While I am balancing I am finishing up the side panels and working on the tank. After that I need a bracket for the front headlamp assembly. I also need to do some more epoxy work to my tail.

frodus
09 May 2011, 0840
oops, forgot to tell you about the deltaQ.... oops.

+1 on the equalizing cells FIRST. If you didn't equalize cells, the first balance charge will take a while. The 3.5V supply will be ok, but don't set it too high. I'd rather see you charge each set of cells individually, then turn balancing on. It'l bring em all down.

Lookin great, you're about a month ahead of me! Great work.

GUFF
09 May 2011, 0909
oops, forgot to tell you about the deltaQ.... oops.

+1 on the equalizing cells FIRST. If you didn't equalize cells, the first balance charge will take a while. The 3.5V supply will be ok, but don't set it too high. I'd rather see you charge each set of cells individually, then turn balancing on. It'l bring em all down.

Lookin great, you're about a month ahead of me! Great work.

No worries on the temp connection, I should have caught that in the manual!

After some work with the power supply, balancing went fairly quickly last night. Everything seems to balance just fine!

The only thing I am scratching my head about is the State of Health %. I am at 19% currently. From what I read in the manual and the Elithion forums the current sensor can effect this number if it is off slightly. I checked and mine was off by a few counts. I tweaked it back in. Will this number correct itself after the first discharge and next recharge cycle?

I wish I had headways like you do! I am interested in seeing the bike fly!

frodus
09 May 2011, 0928
oh, you need to calibrate the pack first, with a good discharge and a full charge. I think that is on the Elithion forum.


It took me a couple years to collect parts and save money and get everything together. Shouldn't be too long, but we'll have somewhat similar setups! I'll be at a little higher voltage and maybe have a higher discharge, but we should be able to help eachother out since we have the same exact electrical system (Curtis, AC20, Elithion, deltaQ).

I have a nice little schematic for the DeltaQ that disables it easily. What model is it? the deluxe? did you program it for lithium?

GUFF
09 May 2011, 0936
My charger is the delta QuiQ with build in DC/DC converter. You helped me program the charging profile for the TS-60AH cells. It seems to be spot on.

I am always interested in schematics and seeing how people do the same things in a different way!

frodus
09 May 2011, 0947
email me and I'll send it your way. Davide created the circuit.

GUFF
12 May 2011, 1851
I am making progress with the bodywork while I wait for my new rear sprocket. I am almost finished with the tail section. I still have a lot of work to do to the tank and it has gained weight from all the bondo lol! I am also close to finishing the bracket for the headlamp assembly. The side panels are complete and ready to paint.

While that has been going on I have been working on a problem with my Acewell's fuel gauge interface to the Elithion BMS. Fully charged I only show 50% on the gauge. Davide created a circuit that interfaces between the BMS SOC output (which goes from 0-5V with 5V full charge, this is working as it should) and the fuel gauge on the instrument cluster. I know most fuel gauges work by a variable resistance sender unit which connects to the fuel gauge and 12V. The Acewell schematic shows it connected to a 100 ohm sender unit so I did test the Acewell with a 100 ohm and 10 resistor. It did go from empty to full with the respective resistors connected across the Fuel gauge line with respect to ground. I am going to have to keep playing with it until I figure this out. I am close...

larryrose11
13 May 2011, 1130
GGuff,
Cool suff so far. I plan on a similar set up on my build. Im still collecting parts and leaning solid modeling. I really like the look of your frame. It got me thinking.

GUFF
21 May 2011, 1208
Well Today was Frankenride day! I was able to finally find insurance that didn't cost 2k and get the chain on Thurs/Fri.

http://www.elmoto.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=1206&d=1306008401

First Impressions:

Smooth as silk acceleration.
Power band seems to be right where I want it for city riding 25-50mph.
Seems heavier than I would like.
Weight distribution is not as good as it could be.
I like the 420 chain, seems quieter.
Batteries are still closely balanced.

I did have an idot moment. I pulled into a parking lot to mess with my cell phone but I didn't pay attention to properly planting the kickstand. Bike fell over and busted up one side panel, tore apart a side view mirror, and put a nice dent in my tank/motor housing. I fixed the motor housing already, some paint and its good as new. Tank, I already started bondo work which is not a big deal since I didn't have it done anyways. New side panel will take some more work, but I still have left over plexi so no biggie. I do need to order some new mirrors though. Good news is that I hated the old ones anyways, couldn't see $%&% with em. Gonna get some nice round end bar types.

Could have have been much worse...

To do list:

1. Finish new side panel
2. Continue breaking in bats and looking for issues
3. Construct new SOC circuit to interface from BMS to Acewell (I have a rough draft for the circuit already)
4. Fix garage door opener circuit.
5. Construct chain guard,front sprocket cover, and shark fin
6. Order paint for fairings
7. Get bat rack welded
8. Paint fairings, paint frame, bat rack
9. Apply Wheel Rim Stripes
10. Reassemble

DaveAK
21 May 2011, 1322
Congrats on the ride! Won't mention the idiot moment. :D

BaldBruce
21 May 2011, 1344
I can se that grin from here! Congrats.

Tony Coiro
21 May 2011, 2122
*single sided swing-arm jealousy* Looks great, congrats!

Nuts & Volts
22 May 2011, 0917
Congrats Guff!

ZoomSmith
22 May 2011, 0954
Looking good Guff. The SSA is seriously cool.


7. Get bat rack welded
Are you welding a totally new rack, or just welding the existing assembled components?

DaveAK
22 May 2011, 1013
Are some of those cells laying flat, or are they on edge? Trying to make it out from your connections. Laying flat isn't a recommended method.

GUFF
22 May 2011, 1050
Thanks!

I plan to get the existing rack welded.

I have heard conflicting info regarding the mounting of Prismatic cells. I have also seen them mounted both ways (flat vs on their side). I have a mix of both. From what I can gather outgassing and cell case swelling are the two main issue. All of the batteries are covered in some way shape or form so outgassing should not pose a risk. To combat swelling I have pressure plates mounted. When I get the bike back apart for paint I will take better pics of that! The frame is far from perfect but I think it will suffice! I am monitoring for swelling closely!

I wish I could have gotten the Gixxer tail on and pushed up that subframe a little. It would look so much better I think! I didn't do it because I would need to remount the tank and get a new seat. I plan to save that for phase three along with the addition of full fairings again.

I am finishing up the new replacement side panel and I almost have the tank done. I am going to order new mirrors tonight and a solo seat cover.

Next, I am going to try to get a chain guard/tire hugger and front sprocket cover made! Ted's awesome composite work has me itching to give it a go. I will probably stick with fiberglass since I don't want to wait on kevlar and I used all my carbon fiber up from my last boat.

I will also have a schematic for the BMS to Fuel Gauge up soon.

larryrose11
23 May 2011, 0919
Thanks!
.....I used all my carbon fiber up from my last boat.

Boat? Human or RC sized? I play with RC boats. (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Lz6FH4jO3E)

GUFF
23 May 2011, 0935
Boat? Human or RC sized? I play with RC boats. (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Lz6FH4jO3E)

Human sized. I like to fish so a boat helps. I plan to sell this boat soon and a get kayak. I am going to take a break from the bike to work on the boat instead to get it ready to sell.

I used to be into RC cars but never tried boats.

Good news is I finished the tank and the replacement side panel. New mirrors are ordered. Going to retighten the chain and the battery compression plates to get ready for the next ride. I will plop the tank back on and then continue work on the BMS to Fuel Gauge Circuit.

larryrose11
23 May 2011, 0948
Guff,
I can weld Steels, and I have the equipment at home. Im reasonablly good at it, and I have tested my welds.
Since you are close enought to me, I can weld the battery racks for ya if ya want, for free.

frodus
23 May 2011, 1020
what mirrors did you order? I'm gonna order some fairly soon.

GUFF
23 May 2011, 1517
Guff,
I can weld Steels, and I have the equipment at home. Im reasonablly good at it, and I have tested my welds.
Since you are close enought to me, I can weld the battery racks for ya if ya want, for free.

Thanks for the offer but my bat rack is aluminum! I wish I could weld Aluminum but my training didn't progress that far! I do know a few shops around here that can do it so big deal!

GUFF
23 May 2011, 1521
what mirrors did you order? I'm gonna order some fairly soon.

I ordered bar end round type mirrors. Below are the exact ones I bought.

http://www.motosport.com/motorcycle/product/CRG-Hindsight-LS-Elbow-Bar-End-Mirror/?id=101081

I ended up using CRG's mirror end adapters as well since my Driven Billet Aluminum clip ons didn't come with a threaded insert.

jpanichella
23 May 2011, 1532
I ordered bar end round type mirrors. Below are the exact ones I bought.

http://www.motosport.com/motorcycle/product/CRG-Hindsight-LS-Elbow-Bar-End-Mirror/?id=101081

I ended up using CRG's mirror end adapters as well since my Driven Billet Aluminum clip ons didn't come with a threaded insert.

I have a pair of the cheapies from ebay. These ones.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MOTORCYCLE-UNIVERSAL-BAR-END-MIRRORS-3-INCH-BLACK-PAIR-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem1c1b4b029cQQitemZ12071 6984988QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

GUFF
23 May 2011, 1638
I have a pair of the cheapies from ebay. These ones.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MOTORCYCLE-UNIVERSAL-BAR-END-MIRRORS-3-INCH-BLACK-PAIR-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem1c1b4b029cQQitemZ12071 6984988QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Hey, not bad! Those look pretty good.

I forgot to check Ebay. I should have to since I was looking for a solo seat cowl there (no luck yet). No worries, I plan on selling these when I upgrade to full fairings and regular mirrors!

jpanichella
23 May 2011, 1705
Hey, not bad! Those look pretty good.

I forgot to check Ebay. I should have to since I was looking for a solo seat cowl there (no luck yet). No worries, I plan on selling these when I upgrade to full fairings and regular mirrors!

Have you tried airtech streamlining for your seat? They have so a ton of awesome seats and fairings.

http://www.airtech-streamlining.com/

GUFF
23 May 2011, 1837
Yep, I checked them out. I bought my Gixxer tail and my CBR 954 front fender from them. I didn't see a solo seat cover for the current 95 seat/tail combo (cowl) and I don't want to buy another tail. I will keep looking.

GUFF
04 June 2011, 1844
Put another 10-15 miles on the batteries today. Bike is charging now and pack seems to be staying in close balance. I think a few more light discharge cycles and I will test FOT on the highway.

Prior to the ride I thread locked and retightened the front sprocket set screw since It was loose from last ride (no thread locker, doh).

Side panels are repaired now. Working on getting foam to make the custom fiberglass parts. I did pick up my TedD secret weapon, syran-wrap (sp?).

I would agree after a few more rides that these HI-PO Golf Cart AC motors run warm. I know this due to the AC induction construction but my Etek felt like a refridgerator compared to this motor. Granted I have the same power at 25% throttle as I did with FOT via the Etek. I think I may add a ram air scoop like Ted boy did. I know with all the around town stop and go it heated up quickly. During the straights it would drop a few degrees so these motors seem to like cruising better which makes sense. Yeah some air redirection sounds like just the ticket to help during summer bumper to bumper stop and go city riding.

frodus
04 June 2011, 2152
how is the motor mounted? How are the air vents faced? The fan on the back of the motor kinda sucks, but it pulls air through the motor from the face.

Fab man
04 June 2011, 2238
[QUOTE=
Prior to the ride I thread locked and retightened the front sprocket set screw since It was loose from last ride (no thread locker, doh).

[/QUOTE]

For safety sake, if the motor has a threaded shaft end, use a bolt (or nut) and a washer to keep the sprocket from sliding completely off the shaft-as they often do. A better solution would be a sprocket with a tapered bushing. 425 and 530 chains, as I recall, are the same sizes as 40 and 50 series commercial chain. There are a wide variety of readily available tapered bushed sprockets for these two sizes of chain. You'll have to check the availability for other size motorcycle chains.

Mark your motor shaft with a piece of tape or a felt marker to index the sprocket and see if the sprocket is sliding around (I'm betting it will no matter how much you tighten the set screw). A loose sprocket and chain flailing around could ruin your whole day.

GUFF
05 June 2011, 1653
For safety sake, if the motor has a threaded shaft end, use a bolt (or nut) and a washer to keep the sprocket from sliding completely off the shaft-as they often do. A better solution would be a sprocket with a tapered bushing. 425 and 530 chains, as I recall, are the same sizes as 40 and 50 series commercial chain. There are a wide variety of readily available tapered bushed sprockets for these two sizes of chain. You'll have to check the availability for other size motorcycle chains.

Mark your motor shaft with a piece of tape or a felt marker to index the sprocket and see if the sprocket is sliding around (I'm betting it will no matter how much you tighten the set screw). A loose sprocket and chain flailing around could ruin your whole day.

Good point. My Etek was threaded on the end of the crank. This AC-20 is not. I may have to do it myself. It is a safety issue.

Frodus, motor is mounted similar is all the other builds here. I do think redirecting some air via a ram air scoop will be beneficial.

Connected to the controller via the Curtis software. Work like a champ. Contactor pull in and rest voltage have been adjusted according to what I am seeing in the software. So the voltage must be PWM'ing and meter cannot catch it. Guess I have to live with the noise. Good news is I cannot hear it with the tank on and my helmet on.

Another 10-15 today. Took it up to 65. 20-60 feels pretty good. Planning my new route to work while I finish breaking in.

podolefsky
05 June 2011, 1854
I use clamp on shaft collars on both sides of my front sprocket. Set screws are worthless, even with thread lock. Shaft collars will not come off.

I picked up two 7/8" bore aluminum ones from McMaster. These are the "one-piece clamp-on" type.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#shaft-collars/=cmf3gz

http://images1.mcmaster.com/Contents/gfx/large/6435kp1l.png?ver=3763592

podolefsky
05 June 2011, 1902
Is your motor warm or hot? My D&D also gets warm, but it's normal. They're rated to 180 deg C (356 F), so if you can touch it without burning yourself it's not even close to overheating.

I'm just talking experience from my D&D, which isn't the same as AC but as far as heat I think it's similar. Cooler is more efficient, but the question is how much more, and is it worth all the trouble to build special vents if it's only a few %.

Just my 2c. Mostly I'm jealous because I really want an AC-20 :)

GUFF
05 June 2011, 2010
Noah,

Those shaft collars look like just the ticket. I am going to have to try a few of them.

Last ride I got it to 60C. But after alot of stop and go city riding. I would agree that the vent will most likely only gain smaller results but I may try it just to learn how much it helps.

podolefsky
05 June 2011, 2021
Noah,

Those shaft collars look like just the ticket. I am going to have to try a few of them.

Last ride I got it to 60C. But after alot of stop and go city riding. I would agree that the vent will most likely only gain smaller results but I may try it just to learn how much it helps.

Cool - it will be a good experiment. At one point I toyed with the idea of adding a water cooling system to my motor using the Warp controller liquid cooling kit (http://www.evsource.com/tls_cooling.php). Not sure how it would work in the AC-20, just a wild idea.

frodus
06 June 2011, 0926
coils of copper tube around the motor?

I think forced air cooling into the motor directly would be better, the rotor gets pretty hot.

billmi
06 June 2011, 1042
My to-do list has included experimenting with strapping some phase change radio coolers onto my motor (http://www.htfx-inc.com/downloads/CommKool_specsheet.pdf) but I haven't gotten around to it yet. Due to available surface area I think I could only really cool the top and bottom of the motor, so I don't want to warp the shape of the motor, but the case is aluminum, so it should distribute it's heat pretty evenly internally, I would think.

podolefsky
06 June 2011, 1052
How about covering your motor in Peltier coolers?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermoelectric_cooling

DaveAK
06 June 2011, 1055
How about covering your motor in Peltier coolers?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermoelectric_cooling
That's what I was thinking. And then with the electricity produced you could charge your batteries as you go! :D

podolefsky
06 June 2011, 1109
That's what I was thinking. And then with the electricity produced you could charge your batteries as you go! :D

Actually, Peltier coolers use up electricity to do the cooling. Now, if you could create a solid state device that turned a temperature difference into energy, that would be sweet (like a miniature geothermal power plant).

Hmmm....

frodus
06 June 2011, 1119
they also generate electricity.

If you apply a voltage to them, they cool one side and heat the other (hence the heat sink) but If you apply heat to them, they actually generate electricity, and they're solid state.

http://www.google.com/search?source=ig&hl=en&rlz=1G1GGLQ_ENUS345&q=peltier+generator&aq=f&aqi=g4g-v1g-j1g-b4&aql=&oq=

DaveAK
06 June 2011, 1122
Actually, Peltier coolers use up electricity to do the cooling. Now, if you could create a solid state device that turned a temperature difference into energy, that would be sweet (like a miniature geothermal power plant).

Hmmm....
I thought a Peltier and a thermoelectric cooler were the same thing. You can either feed them electricity, or have them generate electricity. You have a hot side and a cold side. Depending how you mount them decides whether you feed them power to get the desired effect, or have them generate power.

From your link:

A Peltier cooler is the opposite of a thermoelectric generator. In a Peltier cooler, electric power is used to generate a temperature difference between the two sides of the device, while in a thermoelectric generator, a temperature difference between the two sides is used to generate electric power. The operation of both is closely related (both are manifestations of the thermoelectric effect), and therefore the devices are generally constructed from similar materials using similar designs.

DaveAK
06 June 2011, 1128
Actually, Noah's right. To act as a cooler you'd need to feed them electricity to draw extra heat away. If you don't then they're just going to transfer the same amount of heat with no cooling effect, but will produce electricity. Now, if you sandwiched them between the motor and a cooling jacket you'd draw more heat through them, cooling the motor and generating more electricity.

podolefsky
06 June 2011, 1138
they also generate electricity.

If you apply a voltage to them, they cool one side and heat the other (hence the heat sink) but If you apply heat to them, they actually generate electricity, and they're solid state.

http://www.google.com/search?source=ig&hl=en&rlz=1G1GGLQ_ENUS345&q=peltier+generator&aq=f&aqi=g4g-v1g-j1g-b4&aql=&oq=

Nifty. He got a whole 0.36W. So if you plastered your motor with them, you could probably generate 30-50W.

frodus
06 June 2011, 1142
that's not terrible actually...

but the efficiency sucks, so to generate, then to loop back into cooling, it wouldn't really cool the motor much.

I still think forced air cooling is the way to go, and it's what people at the TTXGP have been doing on their ACXX from HPEVS. I'm wondering about a little jacket at the end that has a hose that goes to an electric turbine with lots of airflow, controlled by RPM.

podolefsky
06 June 2011, 1204
I agree - you really want air to go through the motor.

At TTXGP speeds, you probably don't need an additional fan, just the relative air speed of 80-100 mph should do it. Now, if you could additionally cool the air going into the motor, that would probably help.

What about a thermoacoustic refrigerator (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermoacoustic_hot_air_engine)? You stick a loudspeaker and stack at one end of the motor. In fact...damn...if you could tune the resonance to the relative air speed, you might be able to get it to work without any power. You'd basically be using the energy that was wasted in air turbulence.

(I'm only 1/2 serious)

DaveAK
06 June 2011, 1228
Maybe only 1/2 serious, but 100% certifiable. :D

GUFF
16 June 2011, 1844
I have put about another 150 miles on the bike so far. I have pushed it a little harder the last few rides, giving the throttle a few good twists. EV grin mode was enabled during those times! However, I find it hard to keep my TS cells below 3C during those runs. After more riding I would say that the batteries are indeed the weakest link in the system. This is mainly true riding the bike hard, especially during hard accelerations from a stop. Also, when I get the motor temp up after some lengthy stop and go, the motor likes to drink a bigger cup of amps. Today I tried doing a high speed run with the motor cool. Alot less amps consumed. I can see the effect heat is playing here quite well with this motor/controller.

Chain seems to be staying put so far after the re-torque and thread sealer application. I did order some shaft couplers similar to the ones Noah linked to above just in case.

For my BMS to Fuel gauge interface I scrapped my earlier circuit ideas and jumped into a microprocessor design. This will also serve as a good brush up for future projects!

I have the foam for the chain guard/rear tire hugger. Just need to rough cut and shape it in better before attempting wet layup.

I plan to order paint by the end of this weekend. Not sure If I am going to weld and paint the frame anymore. I kinda like riding and would hate to have the bike out of commission for longer than neccessary. So far the frame is holding up very well. Nothing loose yet. I still have time to decide what to do so no big deal.

GUFF
20 June 2011, 1713
I installed a shaft collar this weekend similar to the one Noah linked to above. However, I had to flip my sprocket around which allowed the chain to be pinched between the new shaft collar and the sprocket. Some 7/8 id washers solved that problem. I torqued the hell out of the allen screw and thread locked it. So far no movement. I am taking measurements to make sure after each ride.

I tried to drill and tap the motor shaft end so I could install a safety washer/bolt but could not tap the hole for the life of me. I gave up after about 5 tries. Using a drill didn't seem to help. I will probably have the machine shop thread it if I take my frame in to get welded.

I made molds for the front sprocket cover and chain guard/tire hugger. I will start shaping them soon. For the solo seat cover I plan to use the top old seat foam as a mold and I may try to bond that to the old plastic from the seat. That way I don't have to worry about mounting on the hinges or fitment with the lock unit.

I didn't get a chance yet to connect my new laptop to the Curtis to determine if the Spyglass is spitting out motor or battery amps. My guess is motor....I will try to do it soon.

Work continues on the micro bms to fuel gauge circuit as well.

Paint has been ordered. Prep work will begin soon. I plan to paint over the 4th of July holiday weekend.

podolefsky
20 June 2011, 1729
Cool, glad that worked...with some tinkering. I've thread locked and torqued the allen screw like hell too, and it always seems to loosen up. I might need more heavy grade thread lock, like the stuff that is made not to be take apart. But with a shaft collar on both sides, it's never been a problem.

I'm not surprised the shaft is hard to tap - it's hardened steel. Even drilling it for the tap was probably a chore.