View Full Version : Problem with Hub Motor Kelly Controller (brushless)

11 December 2010, 0859

Hi Guys :)!

I am building a hybrid scooter, with the original gasoline engine + one brushless hub motor. The hub motor is in the front fork.

I bought from kelly controller the "KEB 72V 8KW Regen Kit" and i bought a 72v battery pack from evcomponents .
I connected all on my Yamaha Majesty 250 , but the brushless motor doesn't run. I checked the wiring but everything is ok. The motor seems to try to turn ,but he can not and vibrates..., then stop

It appear the following errors on the controller (by led flashing):

3,1 -(led flashing) -Frequent reset
1. The controller will stop driving after detecting
too many resets.
2. Mostly because of B- or return wiring. Use the
heavier and cleaner return wires. For dual
controllers, bond B- of both controllers together
with heavy cable or copper strip.
3. Could be over current protection. May set max
current lower.
4. Restarting will clear the error.
5. Please contact Kelly if it happens repeatedly

3,2 (led flashing) Internal reset
Reset caused by over current, high battery voltage
or low supply voltage. It is normal if occurs

I checked the parameters, the wiring.... all is correct, but the motor does not want to run :(

I don't know what to do.

Can anyboby help me?

Many Thanks

12 December 2010, 1029
This is a problem I think Kyle (Nuts and Volts) solved a while ago. Turns out, the supposed supply voltage for "key on" is not necessarily 12VDC. If you can put around 18V on the line, the controller should work.

It is a craptacular fix, but Kyle got his working and one would think Kelly would have this fixed (or noted online) by now.

Happy hunting, good luck. And thank Kyle for the fix!

Nuts & Volts
12 December 2010, 1103
Yep try what ^^he said first. I was getting those error messages (3,1 and 3,2) with my kelly (mind you brushed). This is especially true if you are running anything off of the controller power supply (ie throttle, contactor).

Thanks for all the credit Sean haha

12 December 2010, 1536
I'm using a KBL kelly, but it's also a brushless controller. I was having similar issues, and was told by knowledgeable folks that you have to make sure that the controller is powered on a separate, isolated circuit from either the main traction pack and also the 12V system that your lights and turn signals (and whatnot) are on.

I know mine especially didn't work when i was running both the controller and traction pack off of the same set of batteries during my first set of bench tests. It started working when I changed to two separate (isolated) packs, one for the controller and one for the traction pack.

Good Luck!

19 December 2010, 1400
Thanks Guys for your advice.
I will try now and I will let you know how it went.


30 January 2012, 1729
Same problem. Nothing happens when i twist the throttle. Also 72 v 8kw regen. How did you get it to work?

02 February 2012, 0753
I have been having the same issue as Vyrus79 on a 48V KEB controller with regen (regen not hooked up) going to a Kelly 48V bldc hub motor. The controller is mounted to a Kelly compact assembly. The first day that I had everything together with the controller powered by the 48V pack, everything worked great. I rode the bike around the block a few times and was very impressed with the performance. I went to ride it the next day, and experienced the same symptons and error codes that Vyrus79 mentioned. The motor will either make a light knocking noise or will turn a very little bit.

When the phase wires are hooked up to the controller (with or without power) the motor will turn by hand but shows some restitance to turning. When the phase wires are disconnected, the motor turns easily and smoothly.

Last weekend I disassembled the motor and found no obvious problems.

Last night, I tried powering the controller with a well-charged 12V battery (showing 13.2V) and the motor would turn very choppily for a few full rotations before the controller would stop. I tried again wityh 24V and the motor would barely react at all. Tonight I will try powering it with an 18V drill battery I am borrowing from a friend, but I wondered if anyone in the thread had met with success.

Sean and Kyle, thank you for paving the way!

02 February 2012, 0929
my little drag scooter "experimental scooter" was using a kelly 48vdc 400amp controller, using a seperate slm 12vdc battery.

the only time it show the over current error was when the battery had just been charged, after the batteries settled it ran just fine...

02 February 2012, 1019
Here is our standard Kelly connection diagram I make no claim it will work in your application

02 February 2012, 1144
I notice that your connection diagram has the phase wire order reversed from the Kelly diagram for their hub motor. Does this reverse the direction of the motor? Your diagram answered another question that I had - whether or not to tie the grounds together. Thanks for the input.

Here is the wiring diagram I have used from Kelly.

10 February 2012, 1821
Checking in to see if anyone has had any luck or made any progress. I have tried Nuts and Volts' workaround, but have had no success at 12,18, 24, 0r 48V. Any new suggestions?

30 August 2018, 1326
Working on wiring my electric boat using a Kelly PM48 permanent magnet controller. I am having the same problem. The controller powers up fine, then when throttled up, the prop gives a little twitch (in the correct direction in both forward and reverse) then stops and throws an error code. At first I interpreted it as 1-3,low-voltage, but that can't be right. All of the accessories are powered off of the same battery bank, and there isn't room for another one.

I will be incredibly dissapointed if the controller won't work in this configuration.

Has there been any progress towards solving this problem?

Does anyone have any recommendations for an isolated dc-dc converter for supplying the controller? My battery bank is 36v, and the low-voltage cutoff for the controller is 19V according to the manual. Frankly, it's bullshit that I have to do this type of work-around to make a controller work out of the box.

31 August 2018, 0951
WOW! I just noticed how old this thread was from the OP... I would try what they found works first just to see if you can get yours working, then experiment with an isolated DC-DC like a Vicor and post an update if you can make that solution work. Sorry, I have no experience with Kelly.
Well, actually there was one Kelly.... that was a loooooong time ago though LOL:cool: