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Lionstrike
22 December 2010, 1435
So, I've got the motor spinning now... but not well. Even at full throttle it just spins 1/4 turn at a time. I think that I know why.

http://lionstrike.weebly.com/electric-motorcycle-blog.html (The video file itself is: http://www.weebly.com/uploads/5/3/9/0/5390958/finished.mp4)

So, as you can see I am using like 26ah SLA batteries with f2 connections. Not a whole lot of current draw can come out of that even at full throttle.

Moreover, just turning on the controller drops the voltage by about 10v. That means that off of a 36v battery pack, I am rocking probably 26v in true voltage.

That's just enough to see that the concept works... but certainly not enough for 3000 rpms.

Sound about right to you? Better batteries plus better cable for 3000rpm?

Thanks again all.

magicsmoke
22 December 2010, 1539
Moreover, just turning on the controller drops the voltage by about 10v. That means that off of a 36v battery pack, I am rocking probably 26v in true voltage.

That's just enough to see that the concept works... but certainly not enough for 3000 rpms.

Sound about right to you? Better batteries plus better cable for 3000rpm?

Thanks again all.

Just had a look at your vid and wiring diagram.
There's something definitely not right here. In your vid you mention that the voltmeter is faulty and indicating 53V or so at rest and 41V or so when the controller is on and speculating that it's a 10V drop. As it's faulty I'd work on a percentage drop rather than absolute, so say about 20% (53 to 41). i.e. 36V to 28/29V. But the real issue is why does it drop at all. My suspicion is that the main contactor hasn't engaged and you're powering everything through the precharge resistor.
So just to be clear, where is your voltmeter connected to exactly and did the contactor clunk when you activated the controller engage switch?
One more thing, your wiring diagram shows a 'main ignition switch' in series with the high current circuit. That is the big red rotary one isn't it and not your key ignition?!

Also, where does the contactor coil wire to?

Edit : Just sort of answered my own query :)
Your wiring diagram shows the controller kill switch coming after the main contactor. Until the contactor is engaged, the controller current will cause a voltage drop across your precharge resistor!
In your particular diagram you should wire the kill switch to the output of your 'main ignition switch'.

Rob

Lionstrike
22 December 2010, 1626
Yeah! You're right!!

Everyone keeps telling me that there's supposed to be this audible click after the contactor closes. I have never heard it. I am thus assuming that your intuition is correct.

Hang on a sec... I'll throw up another post and re-work the diagram...

Thanks!!

Lionstrike
22 December 2010, 1634
O.k.... so does this look better to you?

http://www.weebly.com/uploads/5/3/9/0/5390958/wiring3.jpg

**Lion puts dunce cap back on....**

**EDIT**

Wait... I am wrong again aren't I?

I think that it should be this:

http://lionstrike.weebly.com/uploads/5/3/9/0/5390958/wiring4.jpg

That puts the kill switch after the contactor just like you suggest.

magicsmoke
22 December 2010, 1640
Much better, but where is the contactor coil wired to?

Rob

Lionstrike
22 December 2010, 1643
Oh and one more thing... the voltmeter is wired to B+ and B- of the controller.

Lionstrike
22 December 2010, 1645
The contactor coil are the connections going across the top right? That goes to a fuse and then B+ of the controller.

If you're talking about the things that look like 4 male blade connectors on the contactor itself, one side seems to have a diode across the leads and the other side doesn't have anything at all on it.

magicsmoke
22 December 2010, 1658
The contactor coil are the connections going across the top right? That goes to a fuse and then B+ of the controller.

If you're talking about the things that look like 4 male blade connectors on the contactor itself, one side seems to have a diode across the leads and the other side doesn't have anything at all on it.

IMPORTANT - SEE EDIT AT BOTTOM OF PAGE

OK, there's the problem.
Basically, these contactors have a coil inside which when powered act as an electromagnet. This magnet then pulls the main contacts together. The main contacts are the ones that go to the fuse and the B+ and are wired correctly, but you must also power (energise) the coil for these contacts to close.
So, just for now, to get the motor spinning, add these connections ...

The diode should have a stripe or band on one end. Wire this end to the output of your CONTROLLER KILL SWITCH (+).
The other end of the diode should be connected to the Battery Negative B-
Don't get these the wrong way round! Not the end of the world, but the diode will die instantly!

When you turn your main ignition on, make sure to wait a few (10 maybe) seconds before switching your kill switch on.

Now, when you flick your controller kill switch you should here the fabled click. And better than that, when you twist the throttle, you should be motoring :)

Good luck.

EDIT ***** CONNECT THE COIL TO THE CONTROLLER KILL SWITCH OUTPUT, NOT THE MAIN IGNITION SWITCH.*****
Originally I suggested you connect the coil to the main ignition switch. Not good!. This wouldn't allow the precharge resistor time to do its thing.

Rob

magicsmoke
22 December 2010, 1710
One more thing. From your other thread, it seems there's some confusion over the contactor voltage rating. If it is a 24V coil, then putting 36V across it is not good.
Ok for a couple of minutes at a time maybe, but something you definitely need to resolve.

Check the edit in the previous post.

Rob

Lionstrike
22 December 2010, 1737
Got it, thanks man.

So, is this rockin' right here? http://www.personal.psu.edu/cer143/EV/Wiring6.JPG

And am I good at a 24v coil for let's say 60 seconds at a time?

magicsmoke
22 December 2010, 1747
Link doesn't work for me!
Did you notice the edit in #8?

Rob

magicsmoke
22 December 2010, 1821
We're getting out of sync. here with our edits :)

Just saw your wiring4.jpg. You definitely don't want this. i.e. you don't want your high current through your kill switch.

wiring3.jpg is the one to build on.

Rob

Lionstrike
22 December 2010, 2118
I built it on Wiring6.jpg (sorry about the link man, I fixed it... didn't upload correctly for some reason).

IT WORKS!!!! ...But I get your point. No high current connections through that. I've revised it to wiring7.jpg

http://www.personal.psu.edu/cer143/EV/Wiring7.JPG

That should do it. I'll just switch over the connections.

Thanks a million... I have a feeling that I owe some folks a lot of beers :)

magicsmoke
23 December 2010, 0150
Good news!, but just to confirm ...Wiring7.jpg still needs the coil lead (diode stripe) moving to the controller kill switch output (KSI).
And remember to have the kill switch off when you turn the ignition on, wait a few seconds for the precharge to work and then on with the kill switch.

Rob

Lionstrike
23 December 2010, 1131
...So... you would prefer to see this configuration?

http://www.personal.psu.edu/cer143/EV/Wiring8.JPG

Strange though... it worked perfectly even with Wiring7.