Power in Flux

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__Tango replied to the thread Kelly KLS8080 Auto Identify Help.
"
Quote Originally Posted by markcycle View Post
Try raising the CPU power to 24 volts I had trouble at 12 volts very similar to what you're getting
Right! I run mine at 24V on @markcycle's recommendation (well from running a my original Kelly KBL controller). "

5 Hours Ago

markcycle replied to the thread Kelly KLS8080 Auto Identify Help.
" Try raising the CPU power to 24 volts I had trouble at 12 volts very similar to what you're getting "

10 Hours Ago

__Tango replied to the thread Kelly KLS8080 Auto Identify Help.
" yes, exactly.

maybe also make sure the hall sensor wires are correct and/or swap them up too. "

12 Hours Ago

ldopa_chicago replied to the thread Kelly KLS8080 Auto Identify Help.
" No, I haven't swapped phase wires yet, but that's definitely worth trying. Theoretically it shouldn't matter but...I have nothing to lose! "

14 Hours Ago

__Tango replied to the thread Kelly KLS8080 Auto Identify Help.
"
Quote Originally Posted by ldopa_chicago View Post
Ha, thanks, I've watched your video twice now looking for clues/differences. One is obviously the I vs IPS distinction but beyond that I'm doing what you're doing and my motor behaves just like yours during the "identify" routine.

Thanks, your videos are helpful.
Bummer. It was a long shot.

From what you mention though, I don't think I ever received a "reset error" in the window either. I just reset the controller and re-read the config.

Have you tried swapping the phase wires and re-trying the autoconfig? (I'm absolutely grasping at straws here, but since the magic doesn't seem to be working, this is something i'd try). "

14 Hours Ago

ldopa_chicago replied to the thread Kelly KLS8080 Auto Identify Help.
" Ha, thanks, I've watched your video twice now looking for clues/differences. One is obviously the I vs IPS distinction but beyond that I'm doing what you're doing and my motor behaves just like yours during the "identify" routine.

Thanks, your videos are helpful. "

14 Hours Ago

__Tango replied to the thread Kelly KLS8080 Auto Identify Help.
" It's been a while since I setup my KLS-8080I on my bike, so unfortunately, I don't remember much of the specifics now.

however, when I did it, I made a video. I'm not sure if it'll help, but maybe there will be something.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pnVC-RDTIyM

Good Luck. "

15 Hours Ago

Spaceweasel replied to the thread 93 GSX-R conversion.
" Looks good! I was playing around with the idea of Leaf cells as well, but I haven't managed to bridge the gap between the battery compartment I have now and what will work for the Leafs. The angled T approach to placement was where I ended up at as well, but you seem to have fit more batteries than I thought the frame would handle. "

16 Hours Ago

mcress replied to the thread 1992 Suzuki GS500e.
" Hmmm - not much help but I can confirm that is not what is supposed to happen, Mine throws an 'Unsuccessful' error at the end of the Identification process, which is apparently normal. Then once you power cycle it, 85 is set and the motor runs OK.

Hopefully Fany will get back to you soon - I have thrown a lot of questions at him around Regen setup and he's always responded same day... "

17 Hours Ago

ldopa_chicago replied to the thread 1992 Suzuki GS500e.
" When I power on/off, it comes back showing 170 and starts trying to identify all over again. It will do this ad infinitum unless I manually write 85 before I reboot.

I'm using the PC version. "

17 Hours Ago

mcress replied to the thread 1992 Suzuki GS500e.
" OK - does it show 85 in the identification angle once you have powered off / on the controller? Does the motor not run at all?

One other thing - are you using Android to program the controller or PC? I was (and still am) unable to do certain things in android (they just don't work!) whereas the same things I can do in the PC version just fine. I need to speak to Fany about that also.... "

17 Hours Ago

ldopa_chicago replied to the thread 1992 Suzuki GS500e.
"
Quote Originally Posted by mcress View Post
Hi - I am also using the Kelly KLS8080i - assuming you changed the Identification Angle to 170? After it does it's thing and you power off / on the controller, does the Identification Angle now show 85? If it does, it should be good to go.

Does the motor move back and forth a few times whilst it's Identifying?
Yes, I write 170, reset the controller, it does its little routine (appears to be stepping through a full 6 commutations)...and then nothing. ID angle doesn't go to 85, there is no information on the monitor screen. I've let it sit and waited 5, 10, 15 minutes and nothing. Strange!

According to Fany, all my motor parameters are correct so without more under-the-hood info I'm at a loss as to what to do next. "

18 Hours Ago

mcress replied to the thread 1992 Suzuki GS500e.
" Hi - I am also using the Kelly KLS8080i - assuming you changed the Identification Angle to 170? After it does it's thing and you power off / on the controller, does the Identification Angle now show 85? If it does, it should be good to go.

Does the motor move back and forth a few times whilst it's Identifying? "

18 Hours Ago

ldopa_chicago replied to the thread Kelly KLS8080 Auto Identify Help.
"
Quote Originally Posted by cmcnall View Post
After Reset, If you turn the throttle does the motor spin?
If that's the case then i wouldn't sweat it unless you find that your efficiency is terrible.
It will twitch and/or whine (I watch the current to make sure it's not doing anything bad), but not spin. I was able to get it to spin if I turn the field drive off (rotor un-magnetized), but I think in that case it's sort of behaving like an induction motor. If I apply any load whatsoever it stops, naturally.

Quote Originally Posted by cmcnall View Post
Also if you are using the app try using a laptop or vice versa?
I have found tablets to be more communication stable then using an android phone

good luck.
I'm using a laptop. Though sometimes it has trouble connecting initially, I do see throttle input reads and stuff like that so I know I'm talking to the controller.

Thanks. "

20 Hours Ago

cmcnall replied to the thread Kelly KLS8080 Auto Identify Help.
" After Reset, If you turn the throttle does the motor spin?
If that's the case then i wouldn't sweat it unless you find that your efficiency is terrible.

Also if you are using the app try using a laptop or vice versa?
I have found tablets to be more communication stable then using an android phone

good luck. "

21 Hours Ago

ldopa_chicago replied to the thread 1992 Suzuki GS500e.
" Ok, I'm a bit frustrated.

Everything is wired up an ready but I'm having trouble with the Kelly "auto identify" function. I started a thread on it in the "controller" section, but basically the auto identify routine does its thing but then never seems to complete? It's supposed to throw a "reset error" when it finishes but I get no response good or bad. Anyone know anything about this? I'm in contact with Fany at Kelly but it's slow going what with the time difference. "

21 Hours Ago

ldopa_chicago created the thread Kelly KLS8080 Auto Identify Help.
" Hey all, I have a 96V, 300A Kelly KLS8080IPS that I'm trying to get running. I'm in contact with Kelly but so far they haven't been able to resolve my issue.

As far as I know (and according to Kelly) all my motor and sensor parameters are set correctly. I write "170" to the identification angle field, wait, power cycle the controller, and then it begins its routine. It appears to simply be stepping through a full 6 commutations. After that, you're supposed to get a "reset error" in the monitor window, but this never comes. I've waited a long time and it never goes to "85" nor throws any error or anything.

Has anyone experienced this and resolved it? Is there a way to manually configure the identification angle? Is there CLI that I can access and get more information as to what's going on?

Thanks. "

21 Hours Ago

Hugues replied to the thread 93 GSX-R conversion.
"
Quote Originally Posted by podolefsky View Post
...

Location of the pack fuse is up to you. You want it either mid-pack or as close as possible to one of the main battery terminals. A mid-pack fuse protects right at the main +/- terminals. It honestly isn't that important for this pack. If the pack is completely enclosed then once it's built up even a dead short across the main terminals is still protected. It's nice once the pack is assembled and you're messing around connecting things.

If you use a mid-pack fuse you need to make sure your BMS supports it. With the Orion that means between cell tap connectors. Otherwise if the pack fuse opens it will blow the cell tap fuses inside the BMS, which have to be replaced at the factory. If your Orion is 36S or less and only uses the first cell bank it won't work. I'm not sure yet if I'll use an Orion BMS, or even a BMS, but if I do it will be a 48S "split" configuration, which allows up to 24 cells on each tap connector. I'll have 10 on connector 1 and 18 on connector 2.
thanks for the explanation, i thought it was needed to have one mid-pack, because i was reading about it in Orion manual, now i understand why they write about it.

thanks "

22 Hours Ago

Richard230 replied to the thread Power in Flux book review.
" I think you will like this review of Power in Flux better than mine. http://reneweconomy.com.au/a-short-h...olution-69175/ "

1 Day Ago

podolefsky replied to the thread 93 GSX-R conversion.
"
Quote Originally Posted by furyphoto View Post
I'm interested to see how it looks when you are done. I always thought that the top heavy look of your original pack is one of the things that made the bike look so good. It kind of mimicked a big ol' Inline Four. So many people have a square brick look that doesn't give an electric bike much style
I did too. But, the new pack will be a cleaner look overall with its own style. Not to mention more range, power, and a smaller package.


Quote Originally Posted by Hugues View Post
I like these 3d printed purple spacers/covers. I just printed round spacers for mine and they were a pain during assembly of the pack.
Are you selling your 3d file ?

Also, i don't have a mid-pack fuse, only the main fuse on the + side pf the pack.
Can you bring me back to reality and explain why i need a mid-pack fuse as well ?

I'll put the 3D file up on grabcad once I've tested the fit.

Location of the pack fuse is up to you. You want it either mid-pack or as close as possible to one of the main battery terminals. A mid-pack fuse protects right at the main +/- terminals. It honestly isn't that important for this pack. If the pack is completely enclosed then once it's built up even a dead short across the main terminals is still protected. It's nice once the pack is assembled and you're messing around connecting things.

If you use a mid-pack fuse you need to make sure your BMS supports it. With the Orion that means between cell tap connectors. Otherwise if the pack fuse opens it will blow the cell tap fuses inside the BMS, which have to be replaced at the factory. If your Orion is 36S or less and only uses the first cell bank it won't work. I'm not sure yet if I'll use an Orion BMS, or even a BMS, but if I do it will be a 48S "split" configuration, which allows up to 24 cells on each tap connector. I'll have 10 on connector 1 and 18 on connector 2. "

1 Day Ago