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ZeroFret clicked Likes for this post: 1972 Honda CB350F conversion by rfndzc

18 Hours Ago

tylerwatts clicked Likes for this post: 1972 Honda CB350F conversion by rfndzc

20 Hours Ago

rfndzc replied to the thread 1972 Honda CB350F conversion.
" Thanks Tyler

Here’s the finished motor plate with the revolt attached. Will get this and the handlebars and controls on the bike tomorrow after a good pressure wash to get all the old grease and dust off the frame.
Attachment 8445 "

1 Day Ago

tylerwatts replied to the thread 1972 Honda CB350F conversion.
" Looking like very good packaging.

Tyler "

1 Day Ago

rfndzc replied to the thread 1972 Honda CB350F conversion.
" Fabricated the housing for the controller in the space where the airbox/filter used to be, and conforming the design to employ the existing mounts. This will eventually offer some storage space beneath the seat, say for a bike lock and chain, and additional electrical components (contactor, 12v transformer, blinker switch) will be hung on the sides here as before.
Attachment 8444

Here is the design for the motor mount which should be completed this week, milled out of 3/8" aluminum plate. Simple and clean, clearances are ~5mm which is about as tight as it can be as an outrunner.
Attachment 8443 "

3 Days Ago

tylerwatts replied to the thread Italjet Dragster conversion.
" Motor solutions update 2:

5: fabricate own swingarm using new QS mid drive motor design (see Revolt Motors - India design) with motor pivoting with wheel but much shorter wheelbase.
Would work with cradle of 4 or without, or alternative design of stock engine assembly mount.

Revolt RV400 motor:


I'm not as keen on this option unless the QS mid drive swingarm kit is too long and won't fit in my wheelbase, or replaces too much battery space limiting the range.

I've decided against this and if I can't mount a suitable motor to the stock drive case I'll use a QS swingarm kit.

Tyler "

3 Days Ago

tylerwatts replied to the thread Italjet Dragster conversion.
" Yes, thanks folks. The problem solving is enjoyable. My problem is when I can't find a solution or can't implement it that I get disheartened and distracted quickly. But I want this one to work out and it should be simple enough to get going without too much technical difficulty.

Anyway, I've had some DIY chores to get done and couldn't pass up the great weather to cook and eat outside today so not much done on the build unfortunately. I'm waiting for the generator puller tool so I can split the crankcase and measure things up.

I did have to go in the garage a few times for tools etc and couldn't help some musings. I threw the drive assy into the frame to see what room there is for batteries. I'm a bit worried to be honest. Definitely don't think a QS swingarm will fit without long wheelbase. Not the end of the world but pushes me ever more towards keeping the original drive. Pics:

I stand corrected, don't think I can exceed the previously mentioned 95mm motor & mount plate width to avoid sticking out too far and looking odd...



Room for batteries is looking slim. I'll get some proper measurements and sketch it up this week then work out what and how many cells can fit...
I'd love to stack cylindrical cells vertically with perspex side covers on the battery box to show off the cells behind the trellis frame. I might have to put some cells under the seat too. Thankfully the Dragster has its fuel tank under the rear seat so there is room for controller, dc-dc and hopefully on board charger too! Need the body panels to show that though.


Next I fiddled with the CVT to see about deleting the clutch, damn that's a heavy lump of wasted energy... weight to open the clutch shoes when it spins and springs to keep them closed!

Anyway, I think by cutting the shoe mount plate down and reversing it, similarly cutting the clutch drum off its diameter, the 2 will taper together perfectly to weld all round the outside and fuse them.

Having just written that I realise then I cannot secure the clutch plate (shoes) to the drive hub as it bolts down before the drum fits over so they move freely usually. BUT by getting the spacing correct the clutch drum will secure both correctly to the gearbox shaft. So I think it'll be fine. I might use a wider nut with more threads for security. Pics:

Clutch drum (fixed to gearbox input by spline shaft). See threaded end of the shaft, this would have to hold both drum and plate onto the shaft if welded as described above.


Clutch plate (shoes on back side) will be cut down, probably to outside of the bulge. Note large thread with flats, this carries all the torque from the CVT belt pulley into the clutch. If I weld the plate and drum I cannot fit this nut. But looking at the picture now, I could use the 3 pins that carry the shoes as studs through holes in the drum so they are still separate. I'll have a look and think about that...


Here you can maybe see how the 2 tapers/cones of the plate and drum would meet with the plate reversed.


Well, wow, I must have been in the garage longer than I thought, that took some typing to write up.

Batteries, I must figure these out to make this build viable. Otherwise it'll be a low power 20 mile scoot for my daughter and I'll not get to do the fun rides out I was hoping...

Tyler "

3 Days Ago

tylerwatts clicked Likes for this post: Italjet Dragster conversion by rfndzc

3 Days Ago

rfndzc replied to the thread Italjet Dragster conversion.
" Great to see you digging in on this project. The process itself seems enjoyable, not to mention the satisfaction when it is complete... that will be immense I’m sure. �� "

3 Days Ago

Richard230 clicked Likes for this post: Italjet Dragster conversion by tylerwatts

3 Days Ago

tylerwatts replied to the thread Italjet Dragster conversion.
" So I spent some time disassembling the engine yesterday I've had to order a bespoke puller tool to remove the generator flywheel, my puller won't budge it even with heat and worrying amounts of force...






But here's the progress. See the video above, this is exactly the idea I had for mounting the motor and using a coupler to the original crank shaft to keep the CVT system, but I will delete the clutch somehow.





I'm unsure about mounting options yet, I would like to trim as much casing as possible to make room and save weight. I'll have to see once the generator is removed. But so far it looks like the Cyclone or Eastgem motors are good candidates.

On the subject of weight though, excluding the stand that I'm using currently to stand up the engine on the bench, now I removed the cast iron cylinder and head I'm surprised how light the unit becomes, and deleting the clutch will save some more weight in the right areas. So this option is looking very promising.

Looking at the video above, it seems I agree that using 2 plates is essential to being able to mount the motor, so this gives me flexibility for this plate design. And potentially more room for motors, like a QS 3k mid drive

Or the larger diameter out runner motors with high peak power and good cooling.

Update: using the casing split line as center (it is centerline) if I go as wide on the right (left of image) for the motor as the gear cover on the left I have about 95mm of length to play with, including mounting plates. So assuming I use 5mm plate I'm left with an 85mm motor. The only size fitting that currently is the Neumotors outrunner. I'll see if there are other options of course but it's looking slim.

The outrunner gives another advantage though, I only need 1 mounting plate as the motor can mount to said plate before offering up to the mount.

But then also, the Cyclone motors at 170mm pcd would suit the mounts on the casing so could use a bespoke front motor plate to save length. I guess part of the question is how wide can it go. Looking at the scooter and deck width I might be able to push it out more to match and ultimately it's not a race bike to be leant over on its side so this might not be such a problem.

Tyler "

4 Days Ago

tylerwatts replied to the thread Italjet Dragster conversion.
" Motor solutions update:

1: modify current 2t motor by splitting the crankcase and fitting an inrunner motor in the bore. This would remove the engine mount though and be a small dia motor.
Could potentially reuse the water pump and liquid cool for more performance.
Could also keep the CVT for greater starting gear ratio and mechanical advantage also allowing higher constant RPMs for efficiency and cooling fluid flow.


Found this interesting inrunner motor, sold in France so easy to get and 3kw cont up to 10kw impulse, seems plenty especially with gearing of the drive unit, fixed or CVT.




I have asked about an IPM version to use with Sine wave controller.

Update: I can source the IPM version in Europe, which is good news.

Bad news is the more is too small for any decent size motor. Option 1 is a no-go.

Tyler "

4 Days Ago

tylerwatts replied to the thread Italjet Dragster conversion.
" So I've been working on the drive system and found this video, basically doing exactly what I was hoping to do but without the enormous motor... Start about 8min in.


I especially love and was planning on machining half the crank shaft into a coupler to match the other half fitting on the motor shaft.

I'm toying with motor choices and sizing etc. Started disassembling and will post more tomorrow.

Tyler "

4 Days Ago

ZeroFret clicked Likes for this post: Universal-ish? by flo

5 Days Ago

ZeroFret clicked Likes for this post: Universal-ish? by Stevo

5 Days Ago

flo replied to the thread Universal-ish?.
" Hi,
well the motor mounting plate as well as controller space would be easylie made swapable.
Leaving the battery pack..
IF you can leave enough space around the pack even that should give you (hopefully ) the flex you will need in future.

As an example as how to mount an e-mot, that could easy being swapped for one using a different mounting pattern, have a look at my build (just for ideas)
"sachs xtc 125" here on el-moto..


flo "

6 Days Ago

ZeroFret replied to the thread Another n00b enthusiast just vampiring up the place.
" Well when I got the bike it had been sitting outside under a cover for about seven years. I got it home and almost immediately got to work servicing everything I could. New fluids, brake pads, tires, plus valve adjustments, carb cleaning, brake rebuilds, and probably some other stuff I'm not remembering. I got it running, verified that everything works. But at some point in there I started taking it apart, and messing with lots of other stuff too. New lights, and gauges, a trimmed saddle, bobbed and rewelded rear end, and currently I'm fabricating a custom seat fairing.

I've had a fair share of setbacks along the way. Honestly I should have just left it alone, kept it stock, and maybe I'd be riding it instead of it taking up space in my little workshed. But here we are, and now I have to see it through.

Attachment 8440
Attachment 8441 "

6 Days Ago

Stevo replied to the thread Universal-ish?.
" I'm on version 3.3 of my original build. Some guys on here have built many different creations.
You will need to design, manufacture and implement all the control mounts yourself depending on what chassis you use.
The sky is the limit. The budget is limiting.
My build is at the point where battery upgrades in 5-6 years is hopefully all I will need to do.
But the last ten years of building the different versions was an important and fun learning process. "

6 Days Ago

Stevo replied to the thread Another n00b enthusiast just vampiring up the place.
" Where are you at?
I still keep my VFR for long rides and don't think twice about gas or my effects on the known universe... at oil under 10 bucks a barrel I'm glad I
still own some gas guzzlers! I figure I've been riding motorcycles most everyday for the past 34 years that I've already consumed much less fuel than most other people
at my age.
I love my emc for commuting 2 miles to work. I still have to work as long as I am Corona free. "

6 Days Ago

ZeroFret created the thread Universal-ish?.
" I'm in the early stages of planning my EV project, mostly reading old threads here, and just trying to soak up information and how-to's. But I came up with a question and search results didn't yield anything.

In a nutshell, is there a such thing as "universal" or even "slightly-more-universal-than-others" EV components? Primarily I'm talking about sizes and the mounting of components within a frame.

For example, I've seen lots of motors with varying specifications in terms of their performance and compatibility with controllers, etc., but each one needs to be solidly bolted to a plate or some such, so is there a unique plate for every motor, or are there certain motors that could all use the same plate? Similarly, there seems to be some batteries that are more widely used than others, so are there batteries that share dimensions, but advertise differing levels of energy density?

The basic reason I ask is easy to explain. However I spec out my EV project when I get to it, I'll get the best components I can afford, and I'm sure I'll have a bike I can be proud of, but what about a few years later when it's already outdated, and a better motor/controller/battery option is available? Or what if I just decide that I want to take my street bike to the track (unlikely for my slow ass, but still)? Ideally, I just get the newer better component and swap it in, right? But if there's no such thing as "universal" than I'm basically rebuilding the bike every time.

Any input on this? "

6 Days Ago