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3DRoboGuy replied to the thread 50cc Scooter conversion.
" On the home straight now !

Just a bunch of wires (all with plugs / sockets on) to connect to the scoot and we're pretty much ready for a dry test !

[1] Throttle / Twistgrip
It was day 2 or 3, I think, when I got round to disconnecting the twist grip cable from both the carburettor and throttle ends. After that the original handlebar grips were pretty simple to remove; friction fit, so... a little brute force... and off they both popped. The throttle / 5K twist grip and clutch side had already arrived...(again, a friction fit) and were pushed on taking care to align the right hand / throttle cable exit so as not to interfere with the front brake or cylinder...
Attachment 8316
Attachment 8317
Attachment 8318

Unfortunately the connector wasn't the same type as that on the controller harness. Fortunately, I had some spares, so removed the un-required, black, cable end connector, trimmed the three cores, matched up the colours (red/+ve, black/-ve and green/throttle), crimped on new terminals to match the new connector and connected the cables / plug'n'socket !
Attachment 8319
Attachment 8320
Attachment 8321

Throttle... done... until the dry run / test !!

[2] High Level Brake
According to the manual, this is to remove power from the motor when the brake is applied - makes sense. But, upon reflection... that would mean that pulling away on a hill would require a little more... finesse / timing... As this was simply a question of adding a suitable connector to the brake tell-tale I'd already 'T'ed off the brake light cable (during week 2 electrics tidy-up) and putting cable plug into controller loom (beige wire) socket I thought I'd add an in-line switch to enable / disable this feature. I mounted the switch adjacent to the fuse panel.

In theory, 'making' the switch would disable motor power whilst one or other (or both) of the brakes were on and 'breaking' the switch would disable this feature, thereby enabling power to the motor even though the brakes were on ! It took me no more that 15 minutes to complete so I thought it was worth it ! We'll see...

[3] Hi-Speed / Lo-Speed
The controller loom has a 3-wire (blue/black/white) connector. Apparently blue/black = Hi-Speed and white/black = Lo-Speed. Making a change here (switching between Hi and Lo speeds using the cable loom), when all the bodywork was back in place, would be difficult, I thought. So, again, I added a wee switch, adjacent to the High level brake switch at the fuse panel to select Hi...or... Lo.

A little more time to complete than the brake switch but... bound to be useful... although I'm sure the only 'real' / 'likely' position will be High !! Again, we'll see...

[4] Cruise control
The controller comes with a black-white cable pair for cruise control... I thought there would probably be more disadvantages to this that advantages... and I'd already allocated the kill switch as Controller 'Enable' so... there were no more handlebar switches and... adding one wouldn't be too easy / pretty and... like I say, why would 'Cruise' functionality be required on a wee scoot ? !
I left this connector in the loom - disconnected.

[5] Reverse
The controller also has a black/blue cable pair for reverse... I'd already modified the Starter button for just this purpose so... I crimped the terminals onto the two wires I'd led aft to the controller area from the Starter switch and connected the two up. In theory... we've now gotten a Reverse !!

[6] Display
This is a single purple cable exiting the controller. I have absolutely no idea as to what capabilities it has or what specific display to connect it to. Currently I have left the original Chinese instrument panel display as-was EXCEPT where I'd taken the fuel gauge cable back to the controller / shunt area along with the Low Oil Warning lamp cable. These two are going to be re-tasked as battery level / SoC gauge and a Lo Voltage (<68V ?) lamp...

[7] Hall sensor
The 6 pin hall sensor cable existing the controller simply plugged into the matching cable exiting the motor. Simple.

[8] Power
The thick red and black cables exiting the controller were connected :
red --> HV SSR out (HV 'relay' output terminal)
black -> output side of the shunt (opposite side of the shunt to the battery -ve terminal)

[9] Motor phase
The thick blue, green and yellow cables existing the controller were connected to the same cables exiting the motor via a 50A terminal block.

[10] Power Lock
The controller has a power lock cable. The controller will not become active / energise the motor if this cable is not connected to 12V. This cable was, therefore connected with the 2x SSR energising cables to the ignition switch via the kill switch and side-stand switch.

If the ignition switch is 'Off' or the kill switch is in the 'Off' position or the side stand is down then this cable is disconnected from 12V and the controller remains inoperative.

[11] Anti-theft
As of yet, I don't have an alarm for the scoot. I did spend a little time looking into bluetooth , and other keyless-type alarms but although pretty cheap I felt that, for where we live (extremely quiet) didn't really require anything... yet...

[12] Control panel electrics
During the electrics tidy-up phase I 'found' the cable (original ignition output) that supplies the instrument panel and, therefore, the onboard scoot electrics (head light, side lights, indicators and horn etc...) This cable was connected, via a 10A fuse, at the fusepanel to the DCDC convertor output. Remember the DCDC convertor is fed with 72V from the LV SSR only when the ignition switch is on and regardless of the kill switch / side stand positions.

Attachment 8322
All electrics finished (NOT tested). Just refit the battery tray and connect up the Batteries !
Now, I'm almost finished, I can smell it... I'm off to dry-test... YIPEE !!

Couldn't stop myself, ignition On and the lights all work... the horn doesn't.... hmmmmm "

2 Days Ago

flo replied to the thread Motor Selection for a 200cc comparable performance.
" Hi
to me there is something wrong in your calculations.
I think the motor could be choosen smaller.
Why is there 60Nm of torque required? a 200cc 4 stroke might have what 20Nm? and usually gear ratio in first gear is still slightly lower than our elecrics anyway..
5300 rpm sounds odd to me too, as i calculated around 4300rpm on my bike to get to roughly 70...geard 3,9:1
so either of us both seems off.
The ME1115 is a good choice still, as it is capable to sustain 12 Kw continous so if you live in a hilly area it will not overheat as easy as a smaller one.

good luck keep us posted

flo "

4 Days Ago

3DRoboGuy replied to the thread Honda C50 conversion.
" Hi Supercub50,
Good luck with the project.
Like Flo says, it'll be interesting to see how you shoehorn everything into the available space (doesn't look like you have a lot of it)
Have you selected your batteries yet, 60V but, home-made 18650 cells or... ?
Super interesting to see how it all pans out. Keep the posts coming.
Robo "

5 Days Ago

Spoonman clicked Likes for this post: Soyachips’ Electric FZR250 by soyachips

6 Days Ago

Akash Pardasani created the thread Motor Selection for a 200cc comparable performance.
" Hi Everyone,

I have been thinking about giving a shot at converting my Yamaha FZ S and while I am at it, maybe even amp up its performance. So I did some quick calculations to choose the most ideal motor for my use case (considering cost and motor specs) to achieve the desired performance:

1. Top speed of 110 kmph (~ 70 mph)
2. 0-80 kmph (0-50 mph) in about 5 seconds

My calculations for a 4:1 gear ratio and 17" rear wheel suggest a motor with instant torque of 60 Nm (~ 45 ft-lb) and a peak loaded RPM of about 5300. After digging up a little, I found ME1115 to have a similar performance (although I would have to further lower the gear ratio and maybe compromise a bit on the acceleration side).

Hoping that I have not messed up with my calculations, I wanted to get some opinions on the motor selection and whether I'll be able to get this performance out of the motor? Any other suggestions or advises are welcome as well.

Thanks in advance,
Akash "

6 Days Ago

Richard230 clicked Likes for this post: Soyachips’ Electric FZR250 by soyachips

1 Week Ago

soyachips replied to the thread Soyachips’ Electric FZR250.
" Put the new blocks into the existing swingarm, swapped the tyre over and got it all into the bike. Next step is to work out how to mount the batteries and controller inside the frame. Decided to push the bike home from the workshop and got some interesting shots on the way

https://forums.aeva.asn.au/download/file.php?id=1299

https://forums.aeva.asn.au/download/file.php?id=1304

https://forums.aeva.asn.au/download/file.php?id=1300

https://forums.aeva.asn.au/download/file.php?id=1301

https://forums.aeva.asn.au/download/file.php?id=1302

https://forums.aeva.asn.au/download/file.php?id=1303 "

1 Week Ago

soyachips replied to the thread Soyachips’ Electric FZR250.
" Had some awesome help from Danny Ripperton (AEVA member) machining the swingarm blocks that hold the hub motor axle.

https://youtu.be/G-SOqybw7E8

https://forums.aeva.asn.au/download/file.php?id=1297

https://forums.aeva.asn.au/download/file.php?id=1298 "

1 Week Ago

3DRoboGuy replied to the thread 50cc Scooter conversion.
" This was some fun ! I took some measurements and started designing (SketchUp, again) a replacement fuel filler neck & cap some weeks ago.

First I thought I'd use the same Anderson connector as was on the batteries I intended to build (and have since completed). I can't, right now, remember why but I changed my mind and used the XLR 4-pin socket to match the plug that arrived with the charger... the same sockets in fact as I fitted to the two batteries for charging - keeps the parts list simple
Attachment 8313
Attachment 8314

During first fit though, I decided to change the design (again) to a 3pin IEC mains 110/220V AC socket - as per the mains cable between the wall outlet and the charger input. This was mostly because, having a drink at the bar, discussing charging one night, we all agreed that the charger would always be required to charge the scoot (obviously). My idea was that the charger should be carried in a back-pack / ruck-sack or, if space wasn't too important, under the seat ! It was pointed out to me that the charger would then need to be connected to both an available wall outlet and the charge socket, behind the seat. Seemed pretty obvious to me... what wasn't so obvious was that everyone agreed it would be simpler just to connect the bike to the wall socket - no charger to play about with or fall off the seat (or wherever else it had been balanced) and break. Seems reasonable ! In addition the space under the seat (on this scoot) is pretty poor anyways (I think I've already mentioned that somewhere along the line...) so... why not use it for the charger ? ? ? As a bonus, the charger is always dry under the seat - it wouldn't necessarily be so, balanced on the seat / next to the scoot during charing...So... why not indeed ? !
And, as it transpires, there's still some space left over for documents, tools and gloves etc...

The 'downside' to this approach is that the scoot will have a fixed / permanent mains AC item wired in at all times and although it won't (obviously) be live at all times, I'm unsure as to any safety regulations with this approach. Having said that, the IEC connector could always be swapped out for the XLR connector in around 10 minutes... so... What's not to like with this approach ?

The final connector, fitted on the scoot with the fairings back in place, looks like this :
Attachment 8311

The design incorporates an 'O' ring on the lid / cap and a large overhang to reduce the chances of water ingress. It has two large drain slots built in (semi-circular, forward and aft of the raised, central, IEC socket, to prevent water build-up if any gets in.
Attachment 8312

The mains cables (L, N & Earth) are soldered and heatshrunk before being liquid silicone sealed. The cable terminates in the under-seat area with the original IEC plug for the charger. The charger output (XLR connector) connects to the, now redundant, original XLR socket thereby keeping it all fully removable for service etc...

A little smear of silicon grease on the 'O' ring and the lid / cap is a simple friction twist fit !
Attachment 8315 "

1 Week Ago

jhaggerty created the thread Wanted: 120V PMDC controller.
" Hey folks,

I’m in need of a controller that can handle 115V and probably around 400 amps. Something like the Kelly KDH series or a Curtis controller. If you have something you no longer need that fits please let me know. "

1 Week Ago

3DRoboGuy replied to the thread 50cc Scooter conversion.
" This week I've been busy with the last major part of the conversion: siting the controller and associated components.
The original ICE kit has been removed.
The original wiring has been serviced / repaired / updated to remove no-longer required cabling and modified to re-task cabling to suit the new electrics and add any new / additional cabling for the imminent electric conversion.
The 3Kw BLDC electric motor has been fitted on a custom, adjustable, aluminium bracket and the cabling routed aft and up to the intended controller position.
The belt driven vari-drive has been modified for a chain drive with rear sprocket and the clutch has been left insitu (to start off with but I have my doubts here...).
All lighting has been switched to LED.
The battery pack tray has been built and installed.
The 2 x 72V, 1KW battery backs have been built, charged and tested.
The fuel filler cap has been replaced with a 3D printed charge point complete with waterproof cap (still need to update here with pics etc).
Attachment 8304

The next step was to design and build the controller 'tray' and then mount the controller before adding a 2nd tier shelf arrangement on which to mount the other electrical / electronic components (fuses, relays, DCDC convertor, 12V battery etc) and connecting the systems up prior to testing. Now it's becoming exciting...

Controller tray
Now that the batteries were sited directly above the motor, there was enough space (with a little modification) to site the controller (and ancillary parts) in lieu of the petrol tank / aft of the rider's seat. This are is a quite 'unforgiving' space in that the rear wheel is directly below (don't go too deep) and the fairings are immediately above (don't come too high). To boot, access to the rear / brake light is from this area too (don't go too far aft) and the front end is limited by the seat-lock bracket (don't come too fare forward)... BUT... all-in-all this is controller space !! Dry and well cooled...
Having decided all would be well, I set to designing and fabricating the tray. This was no job for SketchUp or the 3D printer - just cardboard, scissors and tape before moving on to foam and then fabrication with fibreglass...
Attachment 8305
Attachment 8306

It quickly became apparent that no matter how much I dislike cutting holes where not absolutely necessary and no matter how much I 'squeezed' or moved the controller or how I oriented it (within the constraints that I had) I HAD to cut two holes in the seat support bracket to enable the cables to pass through and, thereby, allow the controller to move far enough forward to facilitate access to the tail lights. In this case though I couldn't see how the holes would weaken the overall structure so... I cut the holes, rust proofed them, glossed over and trial fitted the controller...
Attachment 8307
Attachment 8308

All looked good so the next step was to mount the controller and the two SSRs with their heatsinks. I guess the 'norm' here is to use HV contactors / relays but Solid State Relays use so little power when 'On' and have the advantage of being so very flexible with their energising voltage that I thought I'd give them a go. They have worked great in other projects (like my Spot Welder) so they deserved a chance here too... especially as, having no moving parts, there can be no contact bounce / accidental disconnect due to the higher vibration of the scooter... Anyways, I gave them a go !
Two of them, one for the low voltage (12V) / controller energising and one for the high voltage, (72V) motor.

The recently removed fuel tank had been through-bolted at four points - top and bottom left and right of the recently-fitted controller tray. These were to be re-tasked to locate the "ancillary components shelf" which (because it allows me to see the controller & SSRs below and because (I think) it looks super cool - not that, when all the fairings are back in place, it will be visible !) was to be made form 8mm clear Acrylic sheet...

After test fitting the controller tray and acrylic 'shelf' it was time to drill 2 additional (corner) holes in the tray for drainage (there's just bound to be some water ingress) and finally fix it to the scoot frame.
Attachment 8309

I ended up with the painted black, GRP tray housing the controller, the 2 x SSRs and their heat sinks. The tray is angled down toward the front of the scoot (towards the bottom of the image); this is where the 2 x 10mm drain holes are situated.

The SSRs screw to their (black) heat sinks and the heatsinks are through-screwed into the base of the controller tray. The two holes previously drilled in the seat-lock bracket enable the controller HV input (thick red and black) and motor phase cables (thick blue, yellow and green) - both right hand lower corner, together with the control cables (thinner, multi-coloured) - left hand lower corner, to exit the controller tray without chafing etc...

Now, things began to move really quickly !
This was the part I'd been really looking forward to !!
The first job was to finish siting the SSRs and connect the 2 x battery hook-up cables (terminated with Anderson connectors) The DCDC convertor was fitted next, followed by the Li-Ion 12V battery, the shunt (I think I'm going to want to know charge / discharge current and voltage etc) and then fuse holders. I added a pair of (red / black) banana connector sockets to measure the battery / DCDC convertor voltage and to connect an external 12V source / charger in case of 'flat battery'.

Two SSRs :
... both energised by the Li-Ion battery via its fuse, the ignition switch and the kill switch.
One 10A SSR (left hand side) for the low voltage (12V). This unit feeds 72V to the DCDC convertor.
One 60A SSR (right hand side) for the high voltage (72V, motor / controller). This unit feeds battery pack 72V to the LV / 10A SSR (which feeds the DCDC convertor) and the controller.
One DCDC Convertor :
Connections to the HV SSR output, shunt ground and the 12V fused rail.
One diode :
In-line between the fused 12V rail and the Li-Ion battery The purpose of the diode is to enable Li-Ion battery pack charging whilst preventing back-flow from the battery to any on-board items - except the DCDC convertor (for charging)
Three fuses :
DCDC convertor (all onboard 12V)
Ignition / controller enable (basically, kill switch OFF and Ignition switch ON puts 12V onto the 'power lock' / controller enable.
Onboard lighting / horn electrics
One shunt :
One side of the shunt was connected to both battery -ves, whilst the other side was connected to motor controller -ve, DCDC convertor -ve and chassis ground.
Final steps : the motor cables (green, blue & yellow) were connected via a 50A terminal block to the controller. The controller / motor hall sensor connections were made (plug'n'play)...
Attachment 8310

... and then onto the throttle, brake, reverse and power lock cables... but those are for tomorrow... (mostly because it's late and I note that the throttle cable is terminated with a different plug-type to the controller socket !

To be frank, I also have :
the High / Low speed connector to make (naturally I only need the HIGH !) but (if only for testing) i'd better make a PAIR of connectors - one for Hi and another for Lo speed - or I could add a Hi/Lo switch...

the 'fuel filler' / charge port to connect. I have designed it (SketchUp) printed it (3D Printer), fitted the matching 72V charge connector into it and test fitted it on the scoot but I need to add the diode protection, connect up and fit it...

dry test the lot...

reassemble the scoot and let my son test it for me... receive his 'review' / critique and...

and... probably, a load of other small jobs I haven't remembered to write down here... "

1 Week Ago

Warren replied to the thread Ron Horn FF coming along.
" I am embarrassed that I called him Ron, when his name is Robert, and we actually corresponded back in the day, on the old recumbent bicycle list.

Anyway, Bob has been busy with his design.

https://www.bike-urious.com/rohorn-racer/

His ultimate plan is for a two-wheel steer, two-wheel-drive, electric motorcycle.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wRFlRdM21H8

Looks like Facebook has a similar, if less ambitious, idea.

https://electrek.co/2019/06/07/faceb...ic-motorcycle/ "

1 Week Ago

Stevo replied to the thread Mugen Shinden 8 racer.
" Sounds like he had at least one "OH $HIT" moment! "

1 Week Ago

Richard230 clicked Likes for this post: Mugen Shinden 8 racer by Warren

1 Week Ago

Richard230 replied to the thread Mugen Shinden 8 racer.
" 122 mph average? I am impressed. "

1 Week Ago

flo replied to the thread Honda C50 conversion.
" Hi
will be very intresting how you get all into there.

Good luck

Flo "

1 Week Ago

flo replied to the thread Sachs xtc 125 conversion.
" Hi
well like any industrial country they want you to buy new.

Talk about customising a vehicle.. pia

Greets

flo "

1 Week Ago

Spoonman replied to the thread WORX.VOR.EMC.v3.3.
"
Quote Originally Posted by Stevo View Post
I think it's a functional work of art!
I see what you did there.

https://media1.tenor.com/images/b8db...itemid=4969698 "

1 Week Ago

Spoonman clicked Likes for this post: WORX.VOR.EMC.v3.3 by Stevo

1 Week Ago