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Richard230 clicked Likes for this post: TRANSMISSION (oh, yeah, baby!) by Ted Dillard

4 Hours Ago

jhaggerty replied to the thread 1994 Suzuki RF600 Senior Design project Leaf conversion.
" Ended up ordering a custom 420 sprocket from PBI sprockets based on a JTR829 based on input from EV Ed. It wasn't too expensive, and they emailed me shipment notice only about 2 hours after I put in the order. I'm going to bump the gear ratio up to about 5.4:1 and see how it affects efficiency. "

11 Hours Ago

Richard230 created the thread New motorcycle safety report published.
" The Motorcycle Safety Foundation paid the Virginia Tech Transportation Institute several million dollars to perform a multi-year motorcycle riding and crash analysis in order to provide a more current study of motorcycle crashes than the one that was originally performed by Harry Hurt in 1981. Here is a summary of the results of this 100-sample study: https://www.revzilla.com/common-trea...ur-motorcycles "

3 Days Ago

Roman replied to the thread Need advice for my 1973 Kawasaki 100.
" Maybe I did it right this time? Here's those pictures.

Attachment 8395Attachment 8396 "

3 Days Ago

Roman created the thread Need advice for my 1973 Kawasaki 100.
" Hi everyone!

Attachment 8393
Attachment 8394

I am wanting to convert a '73 Kawasaki (G4TRC, I believe). It is a 100cc, 2-stroke little on- and off-road trail bike (see above pictures). Currently weighs about 200 pounds with engine and everything, empty gas tank. I have searched the interwebs and have learned a lot, including from this forum, but I still have a few unanswered questions. Hoping you'll give me advice on my specific scenario, I'd like to gain from your experiences.

Background on how I want to use this motorbike:
I know exactly how I want to use it, so I can clarify if needed. I've been riding this bike on the farm for quite a while as a 2-stroke. As electric, I will be using it on the farm as well as going to work at some powerplants down in a canyon near me.

What I want out of it:
I want to be able to sustain 60 mph for a max of 5 miles at a time. Most of the time, however, I will be doing 50 mph. On-the-farm riding will have a lot of stop and go (50 mph roads with the need to turn or stop every .5 - 1 mile. I don't care about acceleration except I don't want to hold up traffic, and there's the fact that I'll be doing a lot of stop and go (so a lot of slow accelerations). I need to be able to accelerate about as fast as is normal for a car in a hurry (I'm thinking 0-50 mph in 10-15 seconds?)
Then there's also the roads going into the powerplants - one of them has a varying grade with a max of about 13%, and it's about a mile long grade. If I can make it up that, everything else will be fine. For range, I'm hoping for 50 miles at least (including getting up those hills). That would probably give me 2 days of use before I'd need to charge it overnight again.

The questions:

1. Motor
I want to get away from chain-driven, so I'm looking at hub motors. Also, I want to make this 2-wheel drive so I can get up the grades at the powerplants as well as for more traction on the farm (kinda like the UBCO 2x2). If budget doesn't allow this, then I can at least just go for rear wheel drive for now and add the front hub later. Do you guys have advice for me as to what motors I should get? I'm thinking the EnerTrac 602 or the QS 273 are way more than I need. I need something more along the lines of a powerful e-bike (since I'll have a small e-motorcycle), but I can't find anything that makes sense to me and/or that's made for removable axles. What I've seen that will work spec-wise is made for e-bikes and comes with the axle. Anyway, please point me in the right direction here.

2. Batteries
What I'm leaning towards right now is a 96 volt system (so I can get the top speed). I'll do a dc-dc converter for headlights and stuff. Is 96v overkill? I want to put as much as I can in parallel for range, so if I can go for less in series, that would be cool. Currently I'm thinking of using 18650 cells. Right now I can get 240 Samsung 30q cells for $663. That would make a 24s10p pack for 30 Ah and my "96" volts. Help please - I have no idea if this battery capacity makes my range expectation feasible, partly I guess because I don't know what motors to get.
I would like to steer away from Nissan Leaf cells, just because they're used, and wouldn't they be bigger than an 18650 pack? Unless you change my mind, of course, cause I'm open to anything. Feel free to point me towards something other than 18650s.

One other good thing about going with hub motors is that I have all that room where the engine is to put batteries and controllers and such, on top of where the muffler etc. used to be. This motorcycle has a good frame I can start with.

3. Controllers - No idea right now what I need, cause I figure that will depend on what motor I want. Oh, wait, I do want regen braking. I figure going down those long hills at the powerplants will get back some of the power it takes to go up them. Are there any problems you foresee with regen braking for a whole mile continuous? Heat issues or anything?

4. This actually goes back to batteries. Can I safely build a 24s10p pack, or do I need to hook multiple packs in parallel? Will this big of a pack present problems? Like heat? I know heat has to do with the current being pulled, but if I've got the pack in a sealed, waterproof container, that means heat dissipation suffers. Will I need to have a way of cooling the pack?
Also, about BMS'es. Will I need one? I haven't seen a BMS for a pack that big. Or can I hook smaller packs each with a BMS in parallel?

5. Budget
I'm wanting to do this for $3,000 or under, at least initially. I think that might be hard to do with 2 motors, but hopefully I can at least get it done for that originally (with 1 motor) so I have a working bike with rwd. I know this project will pay for itself eventually, no matter the cost, since currently I'm driving my pickup, which is only getting 10 miles/gallon. That gets expensive.

6. Okay, back to batteries again. I don't have a soldering gun or a spot welder. Not good for building a battery pack, except I found vruzend.com's kit - http://vruzend.com/product/vruzend-battery-kit-v2-0/ This would make it easy for me and provide an extra level of protection against shorts, though it is expensive. I'm also not sure if I would be limited to a rectangular pack. Is there a better way? I can't find any packs for sale as big as I want. Anybody want to build me one (for a fee, of course)?

Thank you so much for reading this far and answering any questions! "

4 Days Ago

Richard230 replied to the thread Best electric motorcycle of 2019.
"
Quote Originally Posted by Stevo View Post
Seriously? Zero and HD are the only choices?! Geeeez. I say anything that has been built in someone's garage is the winner!
However, not everything built in someone's garage contributes ad revenue to motorcycle.com. "

5 Days Ago

jhaggerty replied to the thread 1994 Suzuki RF600 Senior Design project Leaf conversion.
"
Quote Originally Posted by Stevo View Post
Congrats on getting it on the road! Glad to see your success. I haven't been good at getting the paper results into real world results either, but its still an impressive accomplishment none the less. Playing with different drive gear ratios is a pita and can be expensive, with chain length changes as well as expensive sprockets. I used a cheap chain originally with 2 easily removable master links (which you aren't supposed to reuse!) and it did snap on one test. It could have caused some damage so I was lucky, I don't recommend it!! But it did help to dial in the ratio a little bit better, and help with learning how the bike accelerates with different ratios. I didnt notice a heck of a difference in range however.
Thanks Steve! I’m considering using an ANSI #50 roller chain for gearing checking purposes. Right now the front sprocket is for #40 anyway and I can get a steel 60 tooth sprocket and mill out the hub and drill mounting holes for way less than buying a custom rear sprocket. Then, once the length is all set with the $15 ANSI chain I can swap back to a 530 motorcycle chain and eventually spring for true 520 front and rear sprockets/chain. "

5 Days Ago

Stevo replied to the thread Best electric motorcycle of 2019.
" Seriously? Zero and HD are the only choices?! Geeeez. I say anything that has been built in someone's garage is the winner! "

5 Days Ago

Stevo replied to the thread H2 vs electrical power.
" Funny thing is that H2 is the most abundant element in the entire universe LOL "

5 Days Ago

Stevo replied to the thread TRANSMISSION (oh, yeah, baby!).
" I for one am happy to see Tesla getting some real competition that should produce some good future racing events "

5 Days Ago

Stevo clicked Likes for this post: TRANSMISSION (oh, yeah, baby!) by Ted Dillard

5 Days Ago

Stevo replied to the thread 1994 Suzuki RF600 Senior Design project Leaf conversion.
" Congrats on getting it on the road! Glad to see your success. I haven't been good at getting the paper results into real world results either, but its still an impressive accomplishment none the less. Playing with different drive gear ratios is a pita and can be expensive, with chain length changes as well as expensive sprockets. I used a cheap chain originally with 2 easily removable master links (which you aren't supposed to reuse!) and it did snap on one test. It could have caused some damage so I was lucky, I don't recommend it!! But it did help to dial in the ratio a little bit better, and help with learning how the bike accelerates with different ratios. I didnt notice a heck of a difference in range however. "

5 Days Ago

Stevo clicked Likes for this post: Shinden, Honda - some answers (finally) by Ted Dillard

5 Days Ago

jhaggerty replied to the thread 1994 Suzuki RF600 Senior Design project Leaf conversion.
" What I could use some input on is the effect that my tall gearing may be having on amperage to my motor and overall efficiency. When we were doing this for the school project I did some rough calculations trying to use the elmoto spreadsheet but I didn't understand it very well. What I overlooked there was the basic top speed calculation using the rated max RPM of the motor.

With my current setup, assuming 3600 max RPM (no overvolting the motor)
48/12*6.83ft/revolution*3600rev/min*1/5280ft/mile*60min/hr =69 mph top speed

assuming I let the controller overvolt the motor a little and set my top speed goal to 60 mph I think I would be pushing less amps through the motor at the speeds I intend on riding, which I assume would increase efficiency. The motor was definitely warm after the ride, and that was with it's fan running. The batteries were also slightly warm. I think I have to be more conservative with the current limit of the controller.

Feel free to give suggestions on increasing efficiency and usable AH. Right now I am considering gearing and limiting controller current as well as acquiring more test data at a less spirited riding pace. I was hoping to get about 50 miles of usable range at 0-80% charging. "

5 Days Ago

jhaggerty replied to the thread 1994 Suzuki RF600 Senior Design project Leaf conversion.
" Hey all, I have some major updates. Since I couldn't figure out photo hosting before, I gave up on updating this thread. Additionally, professors at school were being a PITA about approving our project, but that turned around in the end (details to follow later.)

I plan on going into detail in the reserved spots above, so if this doesn't make sense chronologically down the line it's because I went back and filled in more info in posts 6,7 and 8.

Currently the bike is assembled and driveable! Though I had some major range problems on my first ride that I could use input on.

Specs:

1996 suzuki RF600
Mars Energy ME1003 Motor
Kelly KDHE600A 120V controller
Throttle cable pull to hall converter https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3292...15504c4d3UylAF
14 nissan leaf cells in series (117V max, 103.6 nominal)
GS500 front wheel and pyramid parts conversion bearings P/N 09262-17034-000 (takes 15mm axle of GS to 17mm axle of RF)
2 Eltek Valere 110-125VDC flatpack 2HE 2000W rectifiers as chargers
EVC500 contactor by TE connectivity
ANL 500A fuse (this needs to change- it's not rated for my pack voltage)
LED turn signal relay, signals, and taillight from Amazon
Streetfighter headlight from amazon w/ 65W phillips bulb
96V dC/DC from Thunderstruck motors allowable input up to 120V, peak burst current 50A
Cycle Analyst V2.4 with remote shunt
-------------------------------------------------
12 tooth front sprocket ANSI 40 from Mcmaster
48 tooth rear sprocket
530 chain
^^These things I believe I really need to change- my gearing ratio is about 4:1 which at 72V puts top speed at 69mph... and that's without overvolting^^

--------------------------------------------------
Not yet installed:
ANT SmartBMS https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3282...15504c4d3UylAF (thread on these here: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/vi...t=32S#p1361253) I plan to upgrade components in this and potentially run pack amperage through it with conservative testing and a fire extinguisher on hand...
JS1772 Inlet
AVC2 unit for allowing J1772 standard to work
second throttle cable to hall converter for variable regenerative braking

This picture is from before switching to off the shelf controller and the new front wheel, but it is essentially what the bike currently looks like:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Om...I6Z9qFHA=w2400

Problem summary:

I took the first real ride with the bike a few days ago. The pack was at about 4.1V per cell and the controller set to full amps and full voltage. It rode very well, with good acceleration in the mid range, high top speed and okay low acceleration. Long story short It went 25 miles before hitting the LVC of the motor, which I have set to 84V (3V/cell). The Cycle Analyst showed 35AH used, max draw of about 450 amps (a quick burst racing my dad) and about 140 wh/mile. I was pretty bummed to say the least.

I spent the next day paralleling the modules and putting them on a small RC charger to make sure they were evened out before bulk charging. The first stack evened out nicely with 50AH from the RC charger. After Bulk charging all but two of the 7 modules were dead on 4.1V. The second stack I didn't leave paralleled as long, and when bulk charging the voltages were fairly out. One module reached 4.2V, which I drained back down using a 12V motorcycle headlight bulb. Needless to say all of this will be easier with a BMS.

The kicker to me was when I bulk charged the second stack had it run through the CA to see input AH. The total was about 32AH from bulk, plus about 4AH from the RC charger. 36AH on a "66AH" pack didn't sit well. I'm hoping that this is because I bulk charged to 4.1V, not 4.2 and that I have the LVC set a bit high due to not having a BMS right now.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/dP...D6LIChAA=w2400 "

5 Days Ago

jhaggerty replied to the thread 1994 Suzuki RF600 Senior Design project Leaf conversion.
" ditto. I'm not a bot I swear, there's just a lot to cover between Fall of last year and now.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/z6...k75HZWPQ=w2400 "

5 Days Ago

jhaggerty replied to the thread 1994 Suzuki RF600 Senior Design project Leaf conversion.
" same as above. Finally figured out picture posting so there will be large updates coming soon. "

5 Days Ago

jhaggerty replied to the thread 1994 Suzuki RF600 Senior Design project Leaf conversion.
" Reserved for more details "

5 Days Ago

Richard230 clicked Likes for this post: Shinden, Honda - some answers (finally) by Ted Dillard

1 Week Ago