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Ted Dillard replied to the thread Questions about proper accessory components for a 60V system.
" mmmmm.

Rinehart.

"

3 Hours Ago

Functional Artist replied to the thread Questions about proper accessory components for a 60V system.
"
Quote Originally Posted by frodus View Post
Partially correct. I've done anything from 24V e-bike controllers, to Kelly controllers, to Curtis and Sevcon controllers all the way up to Rinehart PM100DXR's. It's just been a long time since I've seen a controller like this one, designed so poorly.

I did look at that controller. There's some schematics online where people reverse engineered them, and yes, they're 60V as soon as you turn things on (except throttle input), which is a very poor design. They have a 12V and 5V regulator inside there, they're just not using them for anything other than internal circuitry.

Key switch is 60V
Brake light output is 60V
Indicator light is 60V
Brake switch looks like 60V
Throttle is 5V on pin 1

In the end, as Ted said: You get what you pay for.
Oh OK, from the answers you gave, you didn't seem familiar with these controllers.

Most of the small speed controllers I've dealt with (on scooters pit bikes & such) are set up like this, I guess their all designed poorly.

Thanks for the confirmation, I haven't actually hooked it up yet & just assumed everything was "pack voltage".

I took a quick peek inside. "

20 Hours Ago

Mandres replied to the thread KwSAKI Mk1 (Ex 500).
" Hope it's coming along well. I'm very interested in reading more about the build and the different systems. Have you run into any big problems? "

1 Day Ago

Biker Bob replied to the thread Transmissions. The Final Chapter. (Summer, 2018).
" "That said, 6 gears is probably too many. After a few years of hashing the subject out on the forums, the conclusion I came to was that you maybe need 2 speeds, OK, three. Motorcycle.com agrees: “After now having twice tested the Brammo Empulse R we are convinced that six gears is, at least, three gears too many. It’s our opinion either a Low/High or Low/Mid/High transmission will more than suffice.”

If one has a motor mounted above the gearbox (Brit's term for a "transmission"), it is necessary to transmit the power from the motor down to the gearbox and then back to the rear wheel. Using a Harley 4 speed gearbox, one can use 3rd & 4th for normal riding, while 1st gear comes in handy for loading up onto a lift or
trailer. I'll "PM" you with a few photos. Regards, Biker Bob........ "

1 Day Ago

frodus replied to the thread Questions about proper accessory components for a 60V system.
"
Quote Originally Posted by Functional Artist View Post
All due respect, but I think these systems are a little different than the systems your used to working with too.

It may be like that on them thousand dollar controllers. (they may have a DC to DC voltage reducer built in, for the signals, but I don't think so)

All of signals on these small Chinese controllers are "pack voltage".

On the 24VDC YC31 speed controller, all of the outputs are 24VDC. http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=38841
So, for the brake light I wired (2) 12VDC bulbs in series.

On my 48VDC Torsk kart all of the out puts are 48VDC. http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=38905
For the brake light on this one I could have wired (4) bulbs in series, but instead I "rigged up" a voltage divider.
Partially correct. I've done anything from 24V e-bike controllers, to Kelly controllers, to Curtis and Sevcon controllers all the way up to Rinehart PM100DXR's. It's just been a long time since I've seen a controller like this one, designed so poorly.

I did look at that controller. There's some schematics online where people reverse engineered them, and yes, they're 60V as soon as you turn things on (except throttle input), which is a very poor design. They have a 12V and 5V regulator inside there, they're just not using them for anything other than internal circuitry.

Key switch is 60V
Brake light output is 60V
Indicator light is 60V
Brake switch looks like 60V
Throttle is 5V on pin 1

In the end, as Ted said: You get what you pay for. "

1 Day Ago

Stevo replied to the thread Questions about proper accessory components for a 60V system.
" You could calculate a required voltage drop resistor at each of the controller's outputs if you know how much current each output circuit is needed.
Copied from a search, but applicable to reduce 60vdc down to 12-15vdc:
The voltage dropped by a resistor is given by Ohm's Law: V = I R.

So if you know exactly how much current your device will draw, you could choose a resistor to drop exactly 7.5 V, and leave 4.5 V for your device, when that current is run through it. But if the current through your device is changing, or if you want to make more than one system and not every device is exactly alike in current draw, you can't consistently get 4.5 V at the device using just a resistor.

Your other options include

A linear regulator. This is basically a variable resistor that will adjust it's value to keep the output where you want it. This is probably only a good solution if your device draws very little power (maybe up to 100 mA).

A shunt regulator. This means using a resistor to drop the voltage like you are suggesting, but then adding an extra device in parallel with the load to control the voltage. The shunt regulator will adjust its current (within limits) to keep the current through the resistor correct to maintain the desired output voltage.

A switching regulator. This uses some tricks to generate your desired output voltage with much better power efficiency than a linear regulator. This is probably the best choice if your device needs more than 10 or 20 mA of current.

If you decide to try this, it would probably be a good idea to fuse each output circuit just in case the resistor fails. Be sure to use the proper rated resistor for the required wattage . "

1 Day Ago

Ted Dillard replied to the thread Questions about proper accessory components for a 60V system.
" Yeah, just a word to the wise here - controllers in particular, you get what you pay for. (...says the guy with a box of now-junk Chinese controllers) "

2 Days Ago

Functional Artist replied to the thread Aerial Ace.
" He He Check out the Ariel "Razor"

https://www.ebay.com/itm/352476863429

It's just a "toy" but, the designer definitely had the Ariel Ace in mind. "

2 Days Ago

Functional Artist replied to the thread Questions about proper accessory components for a 60V system.
"
Quote Originally Posted by frodus View Post
I don't know that I'd recommend using that controller if they're truly 60V.

They're usually 12V for the forward, reverse, brake, etc. Only KSI (key on) is rated for full pack voltage.
All due respect, but I think these systems are a little different than the systems your used to working with too.

It may be like that on them thousand dollar controllers. (they may have a DC to DC voltage reducer built in, for the signals, but I don't think so)

All of signals on these small Chinese controllers are "pack voltage".

On the 24VDC YC31 speed controller, all of the outputs are 24VDC. http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=38841
So, for the brake light I wired (2) 12VDC bulbs in series.

On my 48VDC Torsk kart all of the out puts are 48VDC. http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=38905
For the brake light on this one I could have wired (4) bulbs in series, but instead I "rigged up" a voltage divider. "

2 Days Ago

frodus replied to the thread Questions about proper accessory components for a 60V system.
" I don't know that I'd recommend using that controller if they're truly 60V.

They're usually 12V for the forward, reverse, brake, etc. Only KSI (key on) is rated for full pack voltage. "

2 Days Ago

Functional Artist replied to the thread Questions about proper accessory components for a 60V system.
" Thanks for the suggestions guys, but I think this system is a little different than the ones your used to.

A 60V to 12V DC to DC convertor is/could be usable, to reduce the voltage, for the (after the fact) accessories. (horn, lights etc.)

I am talking about the actual 60VDC signals, coming out of the controller.

Here are some examples:

The sixth plug in the wiring diagram, labeled "reverse" is where a (normally) off/(momentarily) on switch is to be attached.
When activated (closed) the speed controller reverses the direction, of rotation, of the motor. (60VDC @ ?mA)

The seventh plug, labeled "lock" is where a simple on/off switch is to be connected.
When switched on (closed) it (enables) turns the speed controller on. (60VDC @ ~150mA)

The eight plug, labeled "brake" is where the brake lever/pedal activated switch is to be connected. (60VDC @ ?mA)
When activated/switched (closed) it tells the speed controller to turn off/"kill" the power to the motor
...& tells the speed controller to activate the brake light too. (60VDC @ ~1A)

The tenth plug, labeled "3-speed" is where an on/off/on switch is to be connected.
When switched to the (1st) "on" position, the speed controller operates at "low" speed.
When in the "off" position the speed controller operates at (default mode) "medium" speed.
When switched to the (2nd) "on" position the speed controller operates at "high" speed.

* There is a better pic of the wiring diagram on the eBay ad.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/163370758805 "

2 Days Ago

furyphoto replied to the thread Questions about proper accessory components for a 60V system.
" You can get non isolated ground dc-dc converters pretty inexpensively from offshore websites. This means your ground wire (and probably frame) will be connected to the 60v battery pack, and a short will run the whole voltage through your system. The victor ones Steve mentioned are isolated so if you accidentally short your main 60v power to say the frame with a wrench when tightening the battery contacts, you won't get a 60v dc shock.
I think I have a few Vicor units around that might fit your range, I have trimmed the voltage before and passed them on for 100 bucks.
Lots of budget builds us non isolated ones though, you just have to be quite a bit more careful to avoid a short. "

2 Days Ago

Stevo replied to the thread Questions about proper accessory components for a 60V system.
" Use a dc-dc step down from 60 to 12 v to run your lights, horn and controller on-off circuit. Vicor makes very small units and are very reliable, but a little pricey. I see them on ebay occasionally at a decent price though. "

2 Days Ago

Functional Artist replied to the thread Questions about proper accessory components for a 60V system.
" What could/should I use for switches for the "small" power systems?

Like for sending "signals" (ie. brake light switch, or for turning the speed controller on & off)

It's still high voltage (in this situation 60VDC)
...but, a lot lower amperage (~200mA - 1A) less then 5A, for sure.

* I looked for 60VDC - 72VDC relays, without much luck. "

2 Days Ago

Functional Artist replied to the thread Questions about proper accessory components for a 60V system.
"
Quote Originally Posted by frodus View Post
ANN and CNN are just different brand's version of a similar fuse style that meet your voltage requirement.
Kool, thanks.
I couldn't find much difference, other than price. "

2 Days Ago

Lunchbag replied to the thread Charging Bullet - Royal Enfield conversion.
" Thanks Nicman, I hope things are going well in Jax and I'm happy every time I hear someone has made use of the site. The RE has done great generally. I still have never had to re-balance the Leaf cells. However I recently experienced some incidents of no response to throttle. This has been hard to duplicate and usually disappears after cycling power, or the problem goes away for reasons I don't understand. So I need to invest a little time troubleshooting. I suppose it is in the throttle, wiring or controller. "

3 Days Ago

Richard230 replied to the thread Engine destroyed after 18000 kilometers.
"
Quote Originally Posted by V75011 View Post
Thanks. it this the following issue ?

Safety Issue Type: Recalls
March 12 2014 NHTSA Campaign Number: 14V119000
Rear Wheel may Lockup
If the rotor contacts the stator, the motor could seize, locking up the rear wheel which could
increase the risk of a crash.
NHTSA Campaign Number 14V119000

My model is a Zero 2013. It seems different from this one, and I know that other users have been affected...

V
Yes, that is the recall that I am aware of. It covered my 2014 S, but I don't know if it also covers your model. If not, you will need to ask your dealer to contact Zero and see what they have to say. What happened to you sounds exactly what the recall was supposed to address. "

3 Days Ago

V75011 replied to the thread Engine destroyed after 18000 kilometers.
" Thanks. it this the following issue ?

Safety Issue Type: Recalls
March 12 2014 NHTSA Campaign Number: 14V119000
Rear Wheel may Lockup
If the rotor contacts the stator, the motor could seize, locking up the rear wheel which could
increase the risk of a crash.
NHTSA Campaign Number 14V119000

My model is a Zero 2013. It seems different from this one, and I know that other users have been affected...

V "

3 Days Ago

V75011 clicked Likes for this post: Engine destroyed after 18000 kilometers by Richard230

3 Days Ago