" I guess after the epidemic ended, the way of life of humanity to split into "before" and "after" epidemics. I mean, the approach to safety from disease will change. "

" Does anyone know how hard it is to open these motors?
I was already considering opening it to apply some statoraid, but my communications with the QSMOTOR factory are making me very curious to see inside this motor.

They are claiming that the motor windings are 6T, but that there are two coils in each location where there would be one coil on the 8KW motors. They are calling it "35x666 hang on both side design, not as normal 8KW motor" "

" Like Ed said, just go with Chevy Bolt or Nissan Leaf modules and call it a day. The automotive grade batteries will do fine for what you plan...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Nissan-Leaf...ry!95540!US!-1

You will only need 6 to make your 48volt pack. They weigh about 8 1/2 lbs each so only about 50 lbs total weight.

Here is a youtube I found on a 48volt Chevy Bolt pack ...WOW! Much smaller than a 48v Nissan Leaf pack:
https://youtu.be/pxSm9Zk2_1s "

" I agree about hub motors for scooters and low speed commuters. As modern scooters ( with swingarm mounted motors) have shown the ultra low speeds and conservative cornering mandated by the smaller wheels , mean the large unsprung weight is not so much of a problem.
Just fixing the damping on a bike that carries real speed will not overcome the unsprung weight problem and the large rear weight. It goes to the whole physics of the vehicle. I am not saying it can't be done, but it would require an innovative approach to the whole chassis to make it handle well. "

" Fascinating. Thanks. Definitely more than I want to spend on a throttle, but I will keep it in mind if I cannot find anything else that will work. I would have to do some complicated stuff to get it to work with my kelly controller though. "

" Ah ok, thanks for clearing that up. My "genius" plan is, as usual, not going to work at all.
Having been looking at the numbers, it seems that my controller is demanding way too many amps? Its a 48V system so 100A continuous is 4800W of power (yes?!). I am only running a 3Kw motor, so it sounds like its demeaning far too many amps. The motor specs say that it only needs 45A continuous and 100A peak - which seems much more achievable. Which of these should I be following? Do I need to spend way more cash on trying to provide it 100A CC when its only ever going to be drawing 45A?! "

" Instead of you riding the bike, the bike will be riding you

I'm not in disagreement...that's why I didn't go with a hub motor "

" Don't fear the elMoto!
Nissan Leaf modules are super easy to work with. I've not worked with the Chevy batts but the videos don't look too difficult.
Wiring 3 48v packs in parallel will increase your amphours but not your amp output...that's still limited at the cell level. And there
is debate of whether you should parallel at the cell level versus the pack level, if that makes sense to you. Instead of 3 x 48v packs,
you should have 1 x 48v pack with 3 parallel cell stacks "

" First off, thanks everyone for their advice and help!

EVcycle: Do you know where I might find some for sale? That sounds pretty perfect?

Electric Cowboy: That is a good idea - but I wish I had thought of that before I bought all the other components! I am also planning on trying to make my conversion as inconspicuous as possible, so I think probably better to go more custom parts than what I would salvage from the boom! Thanks for the tip though, next time I will almost certainly do that!

Stevo: Thanks - I've never really played around with batteries and I am worried about ruining some expensive bits of kit! I think for peace of mind I will try and find someone else to build a pack for me as it will save me a whole load of trouble!

The other idea I have had was that perhaps I could buy, say, 3 20ah 48V packs and wire them in parallel. If I am trying to get 100A continuous then getting 3 packs that can provide 40A continuous would mean that it was 120A total. Does that work? Or have i missed something monumental?
If I were to do this, would I have to get another BMS to protect them all, will the BMS on each individual pack do that for me?

Thanks again! "

" I'm with greg on this. I don't see any way to handle that sort of unsprung mass in a sports chassis.
I could be convinced of a cruiser alright, but even the biggest sports or tourer chassis would have difficulty absorbing any impulse coming from that lump without getting upset to some degree.
It's not a question of spring or damping rates - it's a question of there simply not being a great enough difference between the masses of the two bodies. "

" The shim stacks will need to be redone like I said. Heavier oil and reshimming the valves will do the trick, but it will take some experimenting and that means shock rebuilds. Lots of time and nitrogen refills. It would be a challenge and expensive for sure. That's why I chose to stay away from hub motors.
With that said, there are still some advantages to hub motors that are compelling. I think they are perfect for smallish scooter type builds,but that's just my 2 cents of opinion. "

" In case it's useful, the Vectrix throttle is available here:
http://www.shop.vectrixparts.com/thr...-and-grip.html

Rolls about 90degree back for acceleration and about 30degrees forward for deceleration/regen in normal use.
Output is the standard 0-5V range so it's ostensibly something like regen from 0-1.5v and motoring thereafter. "

" It was actually in really great shape until the guy who owned it before me got his hands on it. It needed some routine maintenance, so he took it to a mechanic, and the mechanic suggested a couple things could stand to be rebuilt. He asked if he wanted him to get started so he said sure, but after the mechanic got done taking the top end apart, they started talking about money and the guy balked and just asked for the parts back. So then they sat in a box outside for over a year.
Needless to say everything in the box rusted. "

" I am not set on using a strain gauge.
My only real experience with them was with auto leveling 3d printers... which never really worked very well anyway.
I mostly just want to retain the foot brake and the feel.
I might go with keeping the foot brake stock and adding a second throttle for variable regen.

I did get a BMS, I just forgot to post it on there.
I wanted to get an Orion 2, and likely will for my second build, but the expense was too much to justify for this build.
I am using a 300A rated ant bms with a screen and bluetooth.
I've heard good and bad things about them, but i figured it would be better than no BMS, and it was about 1/10 the price of the orion 2.


My first inclination was to use the shaft. I could not find a motor with enough oomph that would fit without some serious modification to either the frame, or the shaft. I mocked up the ME1616 and the AC-20 but nothing would fit to the input of the shaft.
I considered mounting the motor transversely, and using the AC-20, but I had concerns with the torque leaning the bike over in corners.

I plan to do another build after this one is complete, but it will be much more long term, and very expensive, so I wanted to build this to get me riding in the mean time. "