" Thanks Warren, these new Leaf cells could be an option. Any specs somewhere so we can see energy and power density versus Leaf Gen 1 ? I like the way they built them. "

" Hughes,

I would definitely not buy any Gen 1 modules. I have seven Gen 2?-Gen 3? modules from a 2015 Leaf in my cargo bike. They had low mileage on them when I got them in July of 2015. I pulled 53 Ah, out of them on my first long ride in August that year. After 22233 miles, and 7728 Ah total, I was able to pull 42 Ah out of them on a ride this week. The first two years I never thought twice doing 150 mile rides. Now I have to watch my fooling around to make 125 miles.

http://www.evalbum.com/5173

I will probably hold out for another year, at least. I hope to get some of the NMC cells from the new 62 kWh Leaf. They appear to be about same physical size, but packed as individual cells.

https://cdn.motor1.com/images/mgl/PY...tery-video.jpg "

" Hi guys,

Been a while since my last visit/post.

I'm still very happy with my build (pics here: https://www.facebook.com/zvexx.motorbike/).

I'm running on 26 Leaf cells, first gen bought in September 2014, they were supposed to be new. Been riding since spring 2015 with them, never had any problems. The 26 cells are paired by 2, then the 13 pairs are in series. I can pull 600 amps peak without too much strain.

Now, after 4 years, my range has reduced somehow, not catastrophic, but there are days I would like to ride longer and pull hard on pack.

So I'm thinking about installing new batteries next winter, starting in October.

What are my options in 2019 ?

I attach a picture showing how my pack is built, with dimensions.
Attachment 8190

The least amount of work for me would be to buy new Leaf cells and just swap them. I saw some here (and they seem to ship abroad, I live in Switzerland):
https://greentecauto.com/hybrid-batt...ry-module-7-6v

But if these are not new, i might end up with not so much more range than currently.

I would be ready to redesign the pack if i could get a significant increase in range (and not loose on peak power, i need to pull 600 amps for a second or two).

Would this Tesla module make any sense ?:
https://greentecauto.com/hybrid-batt...-battery-cells

At 25 V, I would need 4 to reach my current voltage of around 100 volts. That would be 21 kWh, that would be awesome, compared to my 13kWh when my Leaf pack was new. They don't rate max Amps of that module, I guess they can handle 600 amps for a second or two ?

Any other options ? "

" This is the donor bike I just bought. The previous owner put a lot of TLC into it so it looks like it’s in really good condition. As mentioned I selected this bike because of the size of the rear rotor :lol: but apparently it’s a really good bike and one of the better 250’s from that era.

https://forums.aeva.asn.au/download/file.php?id=1125

https://forums.aeva.asn.au/download/file.php?id=1126 "

" Here are some pics of the custom axle and motor.

https://forums.aeva.asn.au/download/file.php?id=1122

https://forums.aeva.asn.au/download/file.php?id=1123

https://forums.aeva.asn.au/download/file.php?id=1124 "

" Because the axle is built into the motor and needs to be held firm while the motor spins, there will be a lot of torque where the axle passes through the swingarm. To make this stronger I’m going to use solid blocks of aluminium? inside the swingarm. The tolerances need to be quite tight as there are acceleration and regen torque forces that need to be counteracted.

https://www.aeva.asn.au/forums/downl...le.php?id=1121 "

" Sorry the images above are huge and having trouble working out how to resize them, any ideas? Weird but when they're bigger it's harder to see what's going on! "

" I also tested where the rear rotor would end up relative to the existing brake calliper and mounting bracket setup. In the prototype below everything looked like it was going to line up but then I realised the wheel was a bit off centre! So after fixing that, I will now have to use an adapter plate between the motor and the brake rotor to line everything up ... which means I wasn’t limited to using a bike with the size of brake rotor that comes with the motor in the first place!

http://forums.aeva.asn.au/download/file.php?id=1118

http://forums.aeva.asn.au/download/file.php?id=1119

http://forums.aeva.asn.au/download/file.php?id=1120 "

" I originally thought about doing an electric cafe racer motorbike as there’s something appealing about the way they strip everything back to just the essentials and expose the way it all works but I struggled with how to make the batteries look good. In general, EV batteries don’t look that good so I then changed tack and started looking a bikes with fairings so I could hide them! I’m also keen to use a hub motor to simplify the conversion and leave plenty of space for everything else. The other thing I am trying to do is make this as easy as possible to get an engineer’s certificate for the conversion. I spoke to a few engineers about the project and a common theme was don’t touch the brake system otherwise you’ll need to do brake testing which could add another $3,000

I had read good things about hub motors from QS Motor and they have a pretty extensive range of options. The bad thing was the hole pattern for mounting the brake rotor seemed non-standard so I thought I’d have to use the rotor that comes with the motor which is 220mm. So some more research to find bikes that use that size rotor on the rear and fairings to hide the batteries. The other thing was using a frame that has a cradle under the engine so when I take the the engine out it’s still structurally ok. Most new bikes seem to use the engine as part of the structure so that ruled out a whole lot of newer bikes. This really narrowed down the options so I finally settled on a late 80’s Yamaha FZR250 as my donor bike and proceeded to buy a swingarm and rear brake bits from a wrecker to do some prototyping.

Below are some photos of 3D printed custom axles to get everything fitting and the wheel centred and modifying the slots in the swingarm where the axle normally goes through into dropouts like on a push bike so I can get the motor in. On motorbikes the axle gets inserted through the swingarm into the wheel but on the QS hub motors the axle is fixed in the wheel.

http://forums.aeva.asn.au/download/file.php?id=1115

http://forums.aeva.asn.au/download/file.php?id=1116

http://forums.aeva.asn.au/download/file.php?id=1117 "

" Ooo I like the mono-shock conversion on that build. Thanks for the tip! "

" I would look for an old '80 Honda 450 Hawk. They have an open cradle frame design because the engine was stressed.



<iframe width="640" height="360" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/C-FMkJE90Us" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe> "

" Besides things like shape and weight, the type of batt tech makes a huge difference. As in these two examples, the Yinlongs are cylindrical with a max discharge of 15C and max charging at 6C, the Westarts have a max discharge of 5C. Thats a significant difference, not mentioning the voltage differences.
At first glance, Cylindrical cells make sense because your taking the flat surface such as a pouch cell, and rolling it up to conserve space. But now you have less surface area to cool it off. And when all is said and done, the same volume of space is needed for the same mass of cells, whether its cylindrical or flat. So what I'm saying is that cylindrical cells have some disadvantages as you need a better temperature management system. I personally didn't want to mess with 100's of small cylindrical cells a la Tesla. "

" Hey all, it's great to finally be a part of this community. I've been lurking on the forum for a while (years on & off), but I finally now have a little time & cash saved up for my first EV project!

Nothing set in stone but it'll probably end up being a 300-500cc 70/80's frame (disc brake hopefully), converted to a cafe-spec bike for nipping around town. Not looking for crazy range, just fun acceleration and a low-ish curb weight. Currently looking at the dozens of motor/controller/battery configurations, but will likely go with a pre-built kit for this first project (the golden motor kits sounds interesting?). I'm an electrical noob, but have tinkered on motorcycles on & off over the years.

Once I get a frame and start to plan the build I'll be sure to post in the projects page. Looking forward to sharing the adventure! "

" Hi Michael,

Curious to see how you went with battery selection. I like the idea of only having as many cells as I need to get the job done. Less welding/connecting/BMS etc to worry about. I’ve come across some larger format LTO cylindrical cells 66160 40Ah which look interesting and apparently can do a lot more cycles than LiFePO4. Otherwise there are some NCM prismatic cells that seem to have great range for their weight but no idea on pricing yet.

Yinlong LTO
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/30pc...979869826.html

Westart NCM
https://www.ev-power.com.au/product/...cm-3-7v-cells/

Cheers,
Andrew "

" Up for sale is my un-started electric motorcycle conversion project. It is nearly complete with all major components to include:
- Suzuki Katana GSX600F rolling chassis, clear rebuilt title in hand and I had it previously registered
- 24 GBS 60Ah Lithium Ion cells
- Battery Management System from eLite Power Systems
- D&D Sepex Motor with mounting brackets
- Sigma Controller
- two battery chargers
- DC-DC converter
- two solenoids/contactors
- two Magura throttle sets
- fuse block with two fuses
- a ton of documentation, manuals, schematics, drawings, etc.
- miscellaneous components: plexiglass, battery straps, etc.

I would like to sell it as a set but would entertain splitting the rolling chassis from the rest for the right price. I had all intentions of putting together a very strong 72V system built with excellent components but life and family took precedence. Really I want to see this go to a good home where it will be built and put to good use.

I am having issues with the attachment manager so below is a link to a shared folder on Google Drive with information, photos, etc. Let me know if you have any questions so we can make a deal!

Component Description

Photos

Documentation

Alex Hausman
903-two one seven-1156
alexanderhausman at gmail dot com

$2,500 OBO "

" Hi
Frontend almost done.
Forkseals and new oil , Wheel back ín.
Cycle analyst arrived too so once my new tray for the upper pack is done it will be time for final assembly.
Oh and still waiting for the d--- fuse to arrive...

greets

flo "

" The D7500 motor is connected directly to primary transmission? I usually see those electric trials having a primary belt transmission and then a secondary transmission with a chain. Your motor seems to be connected directly to the primary transmission thru the chain. Is that right?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk "