" 72V ought to give you higher speed. I'd probably recommend at least 72V. "

" Thanks for the advice. Do you know of any places or kinds of places should be looking for Nissan Leaf cells, other than the forums?

That's probably a better idea, I'll keep a lookout. I'm not in any hurry to build this, and it's mostly for learning purposes anyway.



Am I at least looking into the right type of motor in terms of power at least? 7kw/100amps, 48v, 5000rpm minimum? Would it be more advantageous to look into 72volts over 48v? "

" I think that you should get a paired motor/controller combo rather than try to get individual parts like that and doing it yourself. I don't know of any file that exists for the 1305 motor for the Sevcon at the moment, so unless you have a dyno and experience tuning Sevcon, you're going to have a lot of trouble. You'll spend more time getting it working than putting the vehicle together.

Look around on the forums for some used motors/controllers if this is a first build. See how you like it, then you can decide if you want to upgrade, and pass along the motor/controller to someone else. "

" They're made for an EV, so it's going to be something like 2-3000 cycles 100% which would give you about 80% capacity at that point.

There's lots of data out there, just got to search for some sites,
like Hybrid Auto Center: https://www.hybridautocenter.com/HAC...ule&Itemid=605 "

" Hey, I have a brand new Emrax 228 Medium Voltage combined cooling, here is some reference motor info: https://emrax.com/products/emrax-228/
I bought it for my electric project but never got to use it. If interested the price is $4500.
I also have the Bamocar motor controller that is suitable for this motor the price for controller is $5500.

The motor is capable of delivering 100kW peak power and 230Nm peak torque, and it weighs only 12.3 kg. "

" Your goal of a 150lb bike with a 55mph top speed and range of 50 miles is a bit optimistic with 4 Pb acid batteries. I'm guessing the batts will weigh in at around 20 lbs each... thats 80lbs just for battery weight.... and you will be disappointed with the power output of those batts as well. Not to mention that you already are working with a pretty small bike chassis.
But don't be discouraged....building your own electric scoot is a big endeavor with lots of lessons to learn. I would just steer you away from lead acid batteries as a waste of time and money. My first attempt of building an emc 9 years ago used Pb acid batteries and although it worked, it was very heavy and very underpowered.
Definitely keep your eyes open for a good deal on Nissan Leaf cells... its your best and most affordable option "

" This is a very informative video discussing lithium battery technology, its problems, why batteries degrade, how their manufacturing can be improved in the future and then discusses the advantages and disadvantages of "ultra capacitors":
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DE_PZQ13YTY: "

" This is an interesting video discussing the economic and efficiency merits of both H2 and electrical powered vehicles: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f7MzFfuNOtY "

" Hey everyone. I've been reading up here and on other sites for a couple of months now and I was hoping to get some feedback on my potential build and to make sure I understand correctly everything I've learned (lol). Thank you in advance to anyone that reads this.

The original bike is a 1981 Honda NC50. When it was alive it had a 50cc motor and a top speed of about 30 mph, I was originally going to bump up the engine to 70cc and replace several parts on it but decided to just convert to electric instead. If this goes alright, I plan to buy a standard motorcycle later and convert it to electric too.

My goal is to get the bike up to 55 mph and a minimum range of 30 or 40 miles. I'm guessing with everything on it, the bike will be 100-150lbs, rider weight of 150-200lb. The back wheel, with tire, is 18.5".

EV parts:
Motor: Motenergy ME-1305 BLDC 24-48v, 100 amps continuous, 5000 rpm ( https://www.evdrives.com/ProductDeta...E1305&CartID=1 )

15-tooth motor sprocket

Motor Controller: Sevcon G4827 ( https://www.thunderstruck-ev.com/sevcon-g4827.html )

Rear Wheel Sprocket: 32 teeth

Contactor: Tyco LEV200 ( https://www.thunderstruck-ev.com/tyco-lev200.html )

Throttle: Magura Twist Grip ( https://www.evdrives.com/product_p/thr-magura-assy.htm )

Batteries: 4* 12v 26Ah sealed lead acid batteries ( https://www.remybattery.com/ps-12260-sla-battery.html )

Main Fuse ( https://www.evdrives.com/product_p/fs-ann250.htm )

Pre-Charge Resistor ( https://www.evdrives.com/category_s/1947.htm )

Charger: tbd

Spedometer/display: tbd

So I guess my main question is: Does this combination of parts look correct to achieve my goal? Am I forgetting anything? Are there better places to buy motors and parts for cheaper? I know I could buy a cheaper brushed motor but I'd rather have brushless so I'm fine with the increase in price for that.

Additionally, what kind of charger should I get for this? Any suggestions?

Does anyone have any strong opinions on the Motenergy ME-1305 vs other motors? I was also considering the Mars 0907 BLDC ( https://www.cloudelectric.com/produc...-mars-0907.htm ) which might allow for a cheaper controller, but everyone I've read suggests a Kelly for it but that those are also apparently very unreliable - but all of that was also from 5+ years ago. Is this still true? Should I look into that instead? Or is there another compatible controller for the Mars 0907?

I'll be fabricating my own mounts and bodywork to protect the components, etc.

Thanks! Sorry if this sounds ridiculous - I'm still learning. "

" Perfect, I'll see if I can order some, thanks dude. Any idea what the cycles on them are? "

" I don't know in South Africa though, but we get them at Hybrid Auto Specialists here in the states. Either gen1 or 2 is fine. "

" Thanks Travis, is there a good source you can reccomend and is the Gen1 batteries ok or must I go for gen2? "

" This is a fun video: The way it used to be. This Jay Leno video takes a little time to get into its subject matter: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OhnjMdzGusc "

" Get some Leaf batteries and go have some fun. They're easy to wire up, and fairly known as far as charging and voltage high/low limits and current ability. If they were around when I converted my eVFR, that's what I'd have gone with. "

" Thank you!! "

" Hi... So for the last 5 years I've been trying to finish my electric motorcycle. Initially I was going to go SLA but decided to do this properly.I had the me1003 motor and alltrax 7245 with motor plate and 12/72 tooth sprockets for the drive train installed.. Fast foward 5+ years and I'm still stuck on the batteries. Heart breaking really to say the least as this ev is one of my dreams. Anyways... Enough bullshit. I need to finish this thing. I know my choice is between the lifep04 and lto batteries for a 72v system. Both have thier advantages and disadvantages... I need your help in choosing a battery that has high cycle life, can get about 100km/h (62mph) and about 80km (50 miles range) worst case. Like everyone cost is always a issue as in this case I'll be saving for a few months to get the correct batteries. LTOs from Yinlong are about 40ah and so I don't know if this is enough for range expectations. Lifep04 have better energy density but less cycle life. What would you buy, please help. I'm sick of this bike just sitting in the garage.

Thank you for the help. "

" Nice job!
Now ride and enjoy your work "

" Actually, 3d printed cells makes very good logical sense, as it was found with electron microscopy that a cell's deficiencies are due to microscopic holes in the particle layer application and is what causes dendrite formation and other inefficiencies. I look forward to the next gen ss batts! The future's so bright, you gotta wear shades!! "