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Thread: eAssist AC Induction Motor

              
   
   
  1. #81
    Moderator Nuts & Volts's Avatar
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    Nope pretty much gave it up so that I could have a working bike using a zero motor and sevcon. I still have the motor sitting in my room. It may get used one day

    Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk
    Whats under my tank may shock you!!! R6 Build, Blog/, [/URL] OSU Current webpage

  2. #82
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    too bad,
    it seems a very good candidate for E-motorbikes

  3. #83
    Moderator Nuts & Volts's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vehiculeselectriques View Post
    too bad,
    it seems a very good candidate for E-motorbikes
    Yea, I'm going to chat with a buddy of mine this weekend about making a PM rotor for the motor. Would improve efficiency and could allow us to lower the commutation frequency requirements for higher RPM. This project is last on my list of things to do so I don't think it will really go anywhere any time soon.
    Whats under my tank may shock you!!! R6 Build, Blog/, [/URL] OSU Current webpage

  4. #84
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    UGH!... a dead thread.. what a shame! I found it a great & hopeful resource to utilize one of these... they're getting VERY reasonable now. I'm probably going to grab it anyway, and see if I can have them throw the LiIon pack in for a few dollars more, so they don't have to worry about "proper disposal" of it... ;-)

  5. #85
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    Has anyone thought about buying the whole controller assembly and battery pack? They can be had for about $500 and are a lot cheaper than the other controllers discussed. Plus you get 0.5 kWh of "free" battery.

  6. #86
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    I am starting an e-motorcycle project with this moto-alternator
    I expected to have 150 N*m at 230 Arms but I only got 70 N*m. then I read this post and I discovered that it was measured at ICE engine
    This will make me change the transmission using a sprocket of 80 or 90 teeth at wheel, but I think it will work

    I am using Curtis 1236 80V 350A Controller and 75V battery only for the dyno. With this setup I get only 8 HP
    Motor has to be modified from WYE to DELTA, otherwise voltages are VERY high.

    For the motorcycle I am going to use 7 packs of 6S LIPO cells to get 155V (175V full load).
    I think max power will be about 50HP.

    For higher power voltages start to be very high

    here a video of first dyno start:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PES5...ature=youtu.be

    GM motor.jpg

    here it can be seen clearly how the "field weakening" starts at 850 rpm (with 75V battery)
    Last edited by e-vektor; 25 December 2016 at 1339.

  7. #87
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    a quick update: by now I recalibrated the dyno, now it shows +15% more torque, this makes that efficiency is now between 60% and 65% in most cases. And some of them (I cannot repeat) close to 70%, but no more. I had expected to have at least 80% in wide areas, but it is 60%.
    I did lots of tests with different currents, different slip gains (mainly 9% and 15%), different speeds, and the best ones are always between 60% and 65%

    I also did a quick max HP test and it gave 9.5 HP with 75V. If voltage was 115V (as in car) I should have 9.5 / 75 * 115 = 14.5 HP, which is very close to the official value (15 HP for traction)

    Next step is reconnecting the motor, then 115V (star) is equivalent to 66V (delta), so I think I will be able to test it more propertly. Indeed in some efficiency maps I saw on the Internet, max efficiency only happens at higher speeds when high field weakening is being active.
    In some way, probably I am trying to measure efficiency in a worst scenario, similar to have a 230 vac motor connected to a battery inverter. As the map is quite complex, probably I am reaching bad eff points at all corners

  8. #88
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    Hello Everyone,

    I need your help in using Curtis AC Motor Controller 1236E series. Basic support is appreciated, like how to connect Curtis device and talk to the Induction Motor.

    To start with, I am using BAS+ eAssist for one of the applications. I am interested to build a starter/generator for a Vehicle, now then, I am intended to control torque of this motor and have to make it operate at its peak value(Pullout Torque). I found Curtis AC Motor controllers interesting for this job. But I am totally unaware of how to use these controllers. I need help in using these Curtis Controllers to establish a communication between Inverter and Motor. At this point, I don't require any communication with CAN bus. Like I said, my interest is to maintain maximum torque value for some time period. Any input is appreciated.

    Thanks in advance,
    Uday

  9. #89
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    Has anyone else made any progress as far as controlling this motor goes?

    This motor would be perfect for motorcycle conversions once someone figures out how to control it with a readily available controller or builds an affordable controller for it.

  10. #90
    Junior Member ChazFisher's Avatar
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    I found this thread, and was intrigued. These motors are on eBay now, for $150 or so. If they could be made to work in a motorcycle application, that would be a great price point. But I think they'd be difficult to make work, at least without keeping the transmission. Here's why...

    Looking at the specs I saw in various press releases, they were pretty consistent at 15hp, but torque ranged from 79 ft-lb to 110 ft-lb. It was pretty clear, however, that those were the numbers at the engine crankshaft. I expect to see the torque drop off pretty dramatically once the power peak is reached for an induction motor. (Look at the curves for, say, an AC-12 motor at 48 V. The torque fall-off is pretty dramatic.) If I assume that torque/power point represents the knee of the curve, it's reaching peak power at somewhere between 700 and 1000 RPM at the crankshaft. With the 6.5"/3" pulleys that Nuts & Volts cited, that's between 1550 and 2200 RPM at the motor/gen. The actual motor torque will be 36-51 ft-lbs - falling off very quickly over 2000 RPM. So gear it high enough to pull off the line, and it will run out of power at 20 mph. Need to keep the extra weight and complexity of the clutch and transmission to even make it worth trying. And at best, with only 15 hp, you've got an urban commuter bike.

    This makes sense, given the "mission requirements" in the original application. This motor is intended to quickly restart the ICE from a stoplight, to regenerate a little power when coming to a stop, and to add just enough power to avoid the transmission having to "kick down" a gear when passing or going up a hill. So decent torque at low RPM is what's needed, and spinning up to higher speeds isn't important.

    Theoretically, you could up the battery voltage, hold the max current constant, and push that "knee" to higher RPMs. If it can hold 50 ft-lbs to 4000 RPM, you've got a winner! But would GM have overrated the insulation system by so much that the motor can take the higher voltage? My guess is the dV/dt from switching at the higher voltage would break down the insulation pretty quickly. So I think you're stuck with the 115V of the original battery pack. If a top speed of 25-30 mph is good for your application - a city commuter bike - then this might work. My commute is mostly a 45 mph speed limit, actual traffic up to 60 mph. it won't work for me.

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