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Thread: Noise issue related to Curtis 1238

              
   
   
  1. #1
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    Noise issue related to Curtis 1238

    Currently having an issue with what I'd guess are particularly sensitive electronic items picking up noise.

    I have an Arduino controlled relay module that I built, which switches a few circuits like the headlamps, horn, accessory, as well as the charge/discharge mode state.
    I also have a light control module, one of those setups for converting incandescent park/brake/turn lamps to LED as well as allowing multiple functions with one lamp assembly.

    When I power up the Curtis 1238, after the KSI relay closes all is still good, but once the Curtis closes the contactor (LEV200, 48v coil, 50% PWM signal from the Curtis) the two modules noted above go haywire. The brake lights turn on although very dimly, and even though there is no hardwire connection between the Curtis and braking system/12V side of things. The relays cycle rapidly, firing the horn, headlights, turning the radio and Andromeda display on/off.

    As soon as the contactor shuts off, all the issues go away.

    I have not tried moving the KSI relay away from the contactor yet. It is pretty close, just a little over 2" from the body of the contactor so I suspect the 12V coil is picking up noise from the contactor because of the PWM signal.

    I was also thinking of ordering a different contactor with a 96V coil so the PWM from the Curtis can be minimized. Not sure if that really solves the issue.

    I'm also working on a more detailed wiring diagram I can post later if anyone wants to take a look for anything else I might be missing. One thing that sticks out to me is I have a 200Amp diode immediately after the 12V battery, and then a 40amp diode immediately after the DC/DC converter in order to isolate them from each other, and these items are basically at opposite ends of the 12V power bus from each other. There are two 12V distribution blocks also near opposite ends. I'm wondering if the diodes could be creating a resonant loop?

    Any ideas are appreciated! If I have any noise in that 12V system, it's gonna be bad news when I get the audio system powered up (about 2,000 watts, YEAHH! haha)
    Mike Pipes
    - Currently under analysis paralysis.

  2. #2
    Empulse R #24 frodus's Avatar
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    Post a schematic when you get it. Include all ground connections you've got.

    It could be EMI, or could be that something is getting grounded from the Curtis side, to your 12V side. You could start by enclosing the modules in a metal box. If that doesn't help, it's likely coming in through something else.

    Are you using a DC-DC converter? if so, which one?

  3. #3
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    I'm using a Mean Well 500W DC/DC converter. However this issue is happening whether that unit is powered or not.

    I'll put some more time and detail into the wiring diagram.

    The Arduino/Relay module and the LED Lamp module are right next to each other but both are about 4 ft away from the Curtis/Contactor.

    I had a similar issue earlier with only the 12V circuit when the horn was activated. The horn itself caused enough noise to trip the other relays so I got a different horn and issue solved.

    It's been a fun project. LOL.
    Mike Pipes
    - Currently under analysis paralysis.

  4. #4
    Senior Member Stevo's Avatar
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    Maybe EMI noise between the 2 arduino modules? Any wires of these two systems running side by side in a harness?
    Last edited by Stevo; 30 August 2018 at 0952.
    Current rides: '96 Honda Ohlins VFR, '03 Cannondale C440R, '03 Cannondale Cannibal, '06 Yamaha 450 Wolverine 4x4
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    Empulse R #24 frodus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mpipes View Post
    I'm using a Mean Well 500W DC/DC converter. However this issue is happening whether that unit is powered or not.

    I'll put some more time and detail into the wiring diagram.

    The Arduino/Relay module and the LED Lamp module are right next to each other but both are about 4 ft away from the Curtis/Contactor.

    I had a similar issue earlier with only the 12V circuit when the horn was activated. The horn itself caused enough noise to trip the other relays so I got a different horn and issue solved.

    It's been a fun project. LOL.
    Sometimes on or off doesn't matter with a DC-DC. Sometimes the noise gets through regardless, if they're coupled somehow. What Meanwell is it?

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    Quote Originally Posted by frodus View Post
    Sometimes on or off doesn't matter with a DC-DC. Sometimes the noise gets through regardless, if they're coupled somehow. What Meanwell is it?
    It's a SD-500H-12

    Also have an on-board Thunderstruck charger connected to the 96V side, with the EVCC on the 12V side and CAN bus between them.
    Also using an Orion BMS which closes the 12V ground to the KSI relay coil.
    Mike Pipes
    - Currently under analysis paralysis.

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    Empulse R #24 frodus's Avatar
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    OK, that DC-DC should be isolated (looks like a switching power supply).


    I think I'd start looking for ground loops somewhere. Check to see if you can measure any resistance between B- and the chassis, or any of your Grounds or Negative wires on your 12V system.

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    Thanks Travis, will measure and see what I find out.

    In the meantime, here's a wiring diagram. It's not 100% complete as I haven't added all the connections at the front of the vehicle nor the complete charging circuit at the rear, which is basically just an incoming A/C power and a relay to keep it disconnected unless charging is actually happening.

    Not sure why the images keep getting resized down when posted here, the original is 2200px wide. Try the SVG file inside the ZIP archive.

    Wiring Diagram.jpg

    Wiring Diagram.svg.zip
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by mpipes; 31 August 2018 at 2003.
    Mike Pipes
    - Currently under analysis paralysis.

  10. #9
    Empulse R #24 frodus's Avatar
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    What is the B&B Canop? Is it a Can opto isolator?

    How does the 12V battery charge if there's a diode?

    Try this: Try disconnecting the + and - wires from the main 12V distro. Just have the 12V battery power the Arduino and Display (keep the CAN). Start there. This might help diagnose since you have a way to power things on the DC-DC side and the Battery side. So you can split into smaller pieces.

  11. #10
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    Yes, the CANOP is the opto isolator for the CAN.

    RE: the diode, the idea was to add a switched bypass around that diode to allow control of the charging of that battery. The more I think about it though, I think I'd rather not have the voltage drop from using it. I can dial the voltage on the DC-DC so it would not exceed the specs for the battery and it basically could never overcharge.

    Yes, I have previously disconnected the 12V wires at the front of the vehicle, basically the battery ran the front and the DC-DC powered the rear. This produced no issues.

    I did just go out to the garage and measured resistance from B- at the controller, to the front distribution (where all the devices are tapped at the same spot) and it measured at roughly 2 MegaOhms.
    Mike Pipes
    - Currently under analysis paralysis.

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