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Thread: 1979 XS750 electric conversion

              
   
   
  1. #21
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    My motor came in today!
    IMG_20200909_165737.jpg

  2. #22
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    It is a lot bigger than I expected.
    Dunno why. I knew it was 17 inches, and I mocked up the dimensions, but seeing it in person is... wow.
    IMG_20200909_171051.jpg

  3. #23
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  4. Likes Spoonman liked this post
  5. #24
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    This week, I built a temporary stand for the motor out of wood, and hooked up the controller and a small 48v battery I built for another project to test everything:

  6. #25
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    I sized up the motor with the swingarm I got off the Fazer, but it looks like I will have to do some modifications... Any suggestions?IMG_20200919_160632.jpg
    IMG_20200919_160641.jpg
    IMG_20200919_160644.jpg
    IMG_20200919_160638.jpg
    IMG_20200919_160636.jpg
    Last edited by biothundernxt; 4 Weeks Ago at 2154.

  7. #26
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    Yeesh - that's a good sized gap there alright.
    Are those studs integrated?

    I don't see that arm squeezing down enough to make the studs work. If you could change them out then you could use heavy spacers to take up the gap - it wouldn't be pretty bit I expect it would serve well enough and I expect you'll need to do something to that effect in any case to maintain cable clearance.

    To do it right though you're looking a refabrication IMO. Retain the pivot and have some new box section with the right dimensions welded up with some appropriate relief for the cables.

  8. #27
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    Can you please provide different wheel and axle dimensions so others could have more detailed information? Thanks.

  9. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by dnsukraine View Post
    Can you please provide different wheel and axle dimensions so others could have more detailed information? Thanks.
    Here is an image generated from the mechanical drawing. Hope that is what you were asking for?

    Hub Motor 17x6.0inch 273.jpg

  10. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spoonman View Post
    Yeesh - that's a good sized gap there alright.
    Are those studs integrated?

    I don't see that arm squeezing down enough to make the studs work. If you could change them out then you could use heavy spacers to take up the gap - it wouldn't be pretty bit I expect it would serve well enough and I expect you'll need to do something to that effect in any case to maintain cable clearance.

    To do it right though you're looking a refabrication IMO. Retain the pivot and have some new box section with the right dimensions welded up with some appropriate relief for the cables.
    There's not actually a lot of gap. It's about the width of the torque arm on either side.
    I ended up modeling an adapter that I plan to slide over the axle on either side and then into the swingarm.
    I plan to make it out of 6061 T6 aluminum, so I left a pocket for the hardened steel torque arms it came with.

    isometric bottom.jpg
    isometric top.jpg

  11. #30
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    -snip-
    accidental double post

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