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Thread: Breaker versus Fuse

              
   
   
  1. #11
    EZwryder
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    Quote Originally Posted by frodus View Post
    Dale,
    As far as fuses, they're cheap. $60 is way too expensive. those ANN fuses are just fine, cost me $4 or so at the local forklift repair place.
    Well that was kind of my impression too, but I didn't know any better. Now I do though, thanks!

    d.

  2. #12
    EZwryder
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    Quote Originally Posted by frodus View Post
    Dale,
    As far as fuses, they're cheap. $60 is way too expensive. those ANN fuses are just fine, cost me $4 or so at the local forklift repair place.
    Frodus, forgot to ask - what size are you using?

  3. #13
    Empulse R #24 frodus's Avatar
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    I used to use a 400A, Now I need to find a 600A one.

  4. #14
    EZwryder
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    Quote Originally Posted by frodus View Post
    I used to use a 400A, Now I need to find a 600A one.
    Is that because you blew through the 400 when you twisted the throttle?

  5. #15
    Empulse R #24 frodus's Avatar
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    No, its because I have a completely different setup. 400A was with SLA's and a series wound motor/synkromotive controller, and the batteries were the weak spot. We had the controller current limit at ~500A on the motor side (150A max seen on battery side). The motor/controller setup I'm using now is a 550A Curtis AC controller and AC15.

    Fuses shouldn't be there to protect from overcurrent, that should be done in the controller. They're there to protect the battery pack from a catastrophic short. I'd say go 10-25% above the max current of the controller and get a fuse that is close to that. Also, fuse as CLOSE to the battery pack as possible, on the terminal if you can. Reason: If you have a short between the fuse and battery, there is nothing to protect it.

  6. #16
    EZwryder
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    Yes, we have the same controller, that's why I was curious how you determined the rating for your fuse.

    Have you had any opportunity to use that Curtis programmer? I'm hoping I'll have need of it some time in the near future!

  7. #17
    Senior Member ardhout's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by frodus View Post
    Fuses shouldn't be there to protect from overcurrent, that should be done in the controller. They're there to protect the battery pack from a catastrophic short.
    Which fuses can be used? Slow, Fast (F) or Very Fast (FF, for semiconductor protection) ?
    With a short circuit, the Amps will rise very fast (so does heat in the battery), does the battery pack suffer when using a Slow Fuse ?

  8. #18
    Empulse R #24 frodus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by EZwryder View Post
    Yes, we have the same controller, that's why I was curious how you determined the rating for your fuse.

    Have you had any opportunity to use that Curtis programmer? I'm hoping I'll have need of it some time in the near future!
    I've used the programmer mostly to check settings on a few controllers that have gone through my hands.... works great.
    Travis

  9. #19
    Empulse R #24 frodus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ardhout View Post
    Which fuses can be used? Slow, Fast (F) or Very Fast (FF, for semiconductor protection) ?
    With a short circuit, the Amps will rise very fast (so does heat in the battery), does the battery pack suffer when using a Slow Fuse ?
    depends on your need.... which for an EV, slow should be fine. I'd use an ANR fuse, as pointed out earlier. Slow fuses clear just fine for what we're working with.
    Travis

  10. #20
    Ghost Rider Allen_okc's Avatar
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    this is what im using on my bike, from Kelly... there not circuit breakers, but they are cheap...

    http://kellycontroller.com/fuses-c-34.html

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