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Thread: How to hook up LEV-200 contractor wires?

              
   
   
  1. #11
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    Indian Rocks Beach, Florida, United States
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    ok i might try that if I can't find a ev person thanks!

  2. #12
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    That contactor is pretty standard. It should tell you waht voltage the coil is on the side.

    Polarity on the main lugs isn't that importatnt, it just helps if you ever need to break high current which in theory should never happen. You put the battery size on the + lug and the controller side on the -. The coil itself has no polarity but works best if you a pull in voltage close to the value on the contactor, then it needs to have a hold voltage about 0.6-0.8 x the value of the coil rating if you have it in a place where cooling isn't that good.

    Many controllers have their own pre-charge and contactor control with pull in and hold voltage configuration, you have to make sure your controller is configured with the proper values, and make sure you get the wiring diagram for your controller so you get the coils wired up to the contactor control pins (there is no polarity with this contactor, so one wire will go to your contactor supply (which can sometimes be battery + voltage), and one will go to contactor negative (which can sometimes be some potential below battery + voltage). That siaid, many controllers don't care about the contactor control, as long as the voltage supplied to the coontroller is in its range, it will try and deliver the desired output. In that case you can power and control your contactor externally. If you dont't want to make a pull in / hold circuit, just try driving the coil with about 0.8 of its input voltave rating (if it is a 48v contacotr, give it somewhere around 39V, and it will probably close and hold just fine without overheating)

    -ryan

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by ibjed View Post
    A golf cart mechanic might be your best bet for help if you can't find anyone else local to take a look.
    This is a great idea. There are probably hundreds of golf cart techs in Florida!

  4. #14
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    May 2011
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    Thanks Ryan that's the kind information that I really needed to know so I can get my bike running. Learning about the no polarity on the two little coil wires really helped me out alot. Paid for my batteries on the 24th and they were shipped out they should be here any day hopefully tomorrow. Now working on the throttle pod trying to figure out which one is the high which one is low which one is the wiper? The wiper why is it called that? and what does it do just curious I don't know. This is something new too!
    Quote Originally Posted by Biff View Post
    That contactor is pretty standard. It should tell you waht voltage the coil is on the side.

    Polarity on the mainno lugs isn't that importatnt, it just helps if you ever need to break high current which in theory should never happen. You put the battery size on the + lug and the controller side on the -. The coil itself has no polarity but works best if you a pull in voltage close to the value on the contactor, then it needs to have a hold voltage about 0.6-0.8 x the value of the coil rating if you have it in a place where cooling isn't that good.

    Many controllers have their own pre-charge and contactor control with pull in and hold voltage configuration, you have to make sure your controller is configured with the proper values, and make sure you get the wiring diagram for your controller so you get the coils wired up to the contactor control pins (there is no polarity with this contactor, so one wire will go to your contactor supply (which can sometimes be battery + voltage), and one will go to contactor negative (which can sometimes be some potential below battery + voltage). That siaid, many controllers don't care about the contactor control, as long as the voltage supplied to the coontroller is in its range, it will try and deliver the desired output. In that case you can power and control your contactor externally. If you dont't want to make a pull in / hold circuit, just try driving the coil with about 0.8 of its input voltave rating (if it is a 48v contacotr, give it somewhere around 39V, and it will probably close and hold just fine without overheating)

    -ryan

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