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Thread: The 3D Printing and Scanning corner

              
   
   
  1. #11
    Senior Member Hugues's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hugues View Post
    ... out of polycarbonate or some other funky material ...that would be great.
    going in that direction is this new 3D filament:
    http://www.taulman3d.com/645-features.html

    with a tensile strength, yield of 16'500 psi, while polycarbonate is around 9'000 "only"

    and you can already buy it, not much more expensive than regular filaments,
    Regards from Switzerland
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  2. #12
    Senior Member billmi's Avatar
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    Don't get too excited about that strength data - that only applies to the raw extruded filament

    Filament FDM prints will have varying tensile strengths depending on orientation of the stress compared to the extrusion path and layers. If you're in a direction that you're pulling the extrusions on their axis, it's high, but much lower if the pull forces can separate layers, or separate parallel paths.

    Polycarbonate is even trickier in that its brittleness changes drastically depending on how it is cured after undergoing thermoplastic changes.
    Last edited by billmi; 09 April 2013 at 1012.
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  3. #13
    Senior Member Hugues's Avatar
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    so got the new 3d printer this week, my first test print in video below,
    the first one is printed at 0.2mm, the second at 0.1mm, i can go down to 0.05mm under certain conditions, using PLA
    but i must say 0.2mm is already pretty good, i'm pleased with the results
    so as soon as i get the bike back, i'll start to print my insulation parts,

    Regards from Switzerland
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  4. #14
    Senior Member billmi's Avatar
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    Very nice, that's a good clean print, especially for one of the first off the machine!
    What was the temperature, perimiter rate and nozzle size?
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  5. #15
    Senior Member Hugues's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by billmi View Post
    Very nice, that's a good clean print, especially for one of the first off the machine!
    What was the temperature, perimiter rate and nozzle size?
    thanks,

    temperature = 195 C
    perimeter rate = ? not sure what this is. I use Repetier Host with SFACT slicer
    nozzle diameter = 0.35 mm

    i've made a second print below, a little more unforgiving, with curved surfaces in the Z axis to highlight the layers, still at 0.2mm, we can see some small defects, i can probably improve by tweaking some parameters and going down to 0.1 or potentially 0.05mm. CAD drawing was 20x30x10mm high, real object ends up to be 19.92x29.85x10.42. This can surely improve at 0.1mm

    It's quite cool to see it print the honeycomb inside the part

    Regards from Switzerland
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  6. #16
    Senior Member Hugues's Avatar
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    printed the same part as above but this time at 0.1mm, the finish is quite impressive,
    not sure i need to go below 0.1mm honestly,
    I like 3d Printing !
    already made a couple of parts today to repair a few broken things around the house...


    Regards from Switzerland
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  7. #17
    Senior Member SplinterOz's Avatar
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    My Social Networking


    Visit SplinterOz's Youtube Channel
    I am jumping onto the 3D print bandwagon through a Kickstarter called RigidBot. http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/...bot-3d-printer
    Seems to be value for money and a few nice features.
    SplinterOz
    From Australia'a Capital
    http://rgelectric.wordpress.com/

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  9. #18
    Senior Member billmi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hugues View Post
    temperature = 195 C
    perimeter rate = ? not sure what this is. I use Repetier Host with SFACT slicer
    nozzle diameter = 0.35 mm
    I'm usually printing at 195 to 210, depending on speed.

    Perimeter rate is how fast the nozzle moves when printing the perimeter of each boundary. That would be somewhere in the SFACT configurations. Typically the solid layers or fill layers can be printed faster, because it's the outer edges of the perimeter that have to maintain shape detail. I'm running 40mm/second for most of my perimeters now.

    I've been using Slic3r to generate my gcode, and Pronterface for manual control and sending gcode to the printer.

    I'm also using a .35mm nozzle. 0.1mm layers give pretty good detail, but if I can get away with it, I'll print at .25mm to get the job done faster.

    Those prints are really looking great. My first several prints had a lot of problems in comparison.

    SplinterOz, that RigidBot kit sure looks like a bargain. It's about what I spent in parts to scratch build my Prusa (which paid for itself in one gig printing some medical device prototype parts :-) ).
    Last edited by billmi; 06 May 2013 at 0856.
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  10. #19
    Senior Member Hugues's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by billmi View Post
    ..... I'm running 40mm/second for most of my perimeters now.

    ....

    I'm also using a .35mm nozzle. 0.1mm layers give pretty good detail, but if I can get away with it, I'll print at .25mm to get the job done faster.
    ....
    thanks, i do benefit from the experience of others using the same printer, they have a small user forum, so the learning curve is fast.

    i found the perimeter parameter, it's set at 25 mm/sec whereas the main feed rate is at 40, this is for 0.1mm layers. At 0.2mm these parameters are 30 and 70 respectively.

    I do agree that the rigidbot looks good !

    currently printing an ipod touch case for the kid....
    Regards from Switzerland
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  11. #20
    Senior Member seanece's Avatar
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    Splinter, I hate you so much you enabler! My RepRap needs a serious overall and I have been looking for a new 3D printer (precise, dependable heater, no all-thread, encases the print or ability to encase and a large printing area). So yeah...... I climbed aboard the RigidBot train. Choo-choo.......

    BTW, thanks for starting this thread guys!
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