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Thread: The 3D Printing and Scanning corner

              
   
   
  1. #21
    Senior Member SplinterOz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by seanece View Post
    Splinter, I hate you so much you enabler! My RepRap needs a serious overall and I have been looking for a new 3D printer (precise, dependable heater, no all-thread, encases the print or ability to encase and a large printing area). So yeah...... I climbed aboard the RigidBot train. Choo-choo.......

    BTW, thanks for starting this thread guys!
    I couldn't get over the value for money, features and size. All the updates show good print quality so I am really sold. Now I just want them to reach the stretch goal so all have the heated bed.
    SplinterOz
    From Australia'a Capital
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  2. #22
    Senior Member billmi's Avatar
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    Even if they don't throw it in, upgrade to a heated bed.

    I started printing PLA on blue tape over a clear acrylic bed. With one or 2 layers of tape, I'd end up with the tape and print bonding too hard to the bed. With 3 layers of tape, the prints came off well (aside from some bits of tape sometimes fused to them) but the surface was too uneven to get a consistent base layer at .1mm height.
    I found a pair of heated bed circuit boards on eBay for $30 new, sold one for $16, and added a sheet of glass over the board as my print surface (salvaged from a dead scanner/printer I'd just tossed out).

    Heated glass is soooooo much nicer. No adherence issues. Easy to clean, and the prints pop right off due to contraction when the glass cools.
    Sensei - Electric Ninja 250

  3. #23
    Senior Member Hugues's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by billmi View Post
    ....and added a sheet of glass over the board as my print surface (salvaged from a dead scanner/printer I'd just tossed out).

    Heated glass is soooooo much nicer. No adherence issues. Easy to clean, and the prints pop right off due to contraction when the glass cools.
    i was thinking to add a 3mm sheet of glass on top of my alu bed. On the forum i follow someone said they had to put some kind of glue on the glass to adhere properly. DId you have to put anything on the glass ? A little sand blasted maybe ?
    Regards from Switzerland
    My 2.5 Upgrade Thread

  4. #24
    Senior Member billmi's Avatar
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    The only thing I do to the glass, is clean it with Windex to get fingerprint oils off. I print my first layer at 200C, and 30% speed, and the rest of the layers at whatever temp/speed works best for the print. I also put a 2 or 3mm brim on everything, and that little extra grip on corners does a fantastic job of preventing warping.
    Sensei - Electric Ninja 250

  5. #25
    Senior Member SplinterOz's Avatar
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    Heated glass... what a great idea. First upgrade for the printer I think.
    SplinterOz
    From Australia'a Capital
    http://rgelectric.wordpress.com/

  6. #26
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    I have been playing with a friends Makerbot 2 and have had some issues with the software. I am hoping to try a non Makerbot software -- what do you guys suggest?

  7. #27
    Senior Member Hugues's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by skyclark View Post
    I have been playing with a friends Makerbot 2 and have had some issues with the software. ...
    i'm not sure i can recommend anything at this point as i've used/seen only mine so far, Felix 2.0.

    But which software have you had trouble with ?
    Regards from Switzerland
    My 2.5 Upgrade Thread

  8. #28
    Senior Member billmi's Avatar
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    I've been using Slic3r to slice my models into layers and build their gcode and really like it. It's got a lot of control in an easy to use GUI.

    I haven't used Makerware or ReplicatorG to compare, but I believe either one can import gcode, meaning they could print something that was sliced with Slic3r.
    Sensei - Electric Ninja 250

  9. #29
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    Thanks guys.

    I have been using Makerware. It works pretty well for many parts but it does not offer a ton of versatility. I would like the speed to ramp into corners because occasionally the first layer gets ripped off the table when the head changes direction too quickly.

    I will give Slic3r a try.

  10. #30
    SMPS Engineer BaldBruce's Avatar
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    Rigidbot just passed the 750,000 funding level! I know this because you guys hooked me on buying a kit.
    Thanks, I think......
    I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work.
    Thomas A. Edison

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