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Thread: Kawasaki ZX-6R Conversion - "Cholocycle"

              
   
   
  1. #11
    Member robermelendez's Avatar
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    @nutz Thanks for the pics, that is a sick bike indeed! please post some more pics and videos when its ready!

    @remotecontactev sup 'dam!

    Yeah like Travis said we got the Gen4 for free from a friend so we decided to just get the AC-20 and suffer through the tuning. I have some friends that are PhD students and their thesis is dependent on them fixing a dyno and tuning some motors so I hope to get them to help us out.

    Thanks for the comments on the batteries, yeah I thought 5kWh under $1000 is a stretch but we'll see what we can come up with.

  2. #12
    Member robermelendez's Avatar
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    Thanks for the battery info Ted! Yep for sure! I def. want to ride Cholo up the mountain!

    Also, how do you guys recommend going about the aux electrical system of bike (lights, blinkers horn). We still have the complete wire harness for the old bike, i was thinking of maybe using certain parts of it (junction box, connectors etc). If not I would have to make a custom electrical system (like with an arduino or something).

    What do you guys think?

    Also, in order to fit more batteries we are thinking of possibly cutting the cross tube that connects both down tubes in the front. I know some wraparound frames don't have this cross bar. Is it a terrible idea to cut this off?

    Here is a pic of the bike frame you can see part of the cross bar i'm thinking of axing in the front.

    2014-01-14 00.44.54.jpg

  3. #13
    Member robermelendez's Avatar
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    Hey guys, here are some updates of our build!

    http://rjmelendez.blogspot.com/2014/...d-welding.html

    Let me know what you guys think

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  5. #14
    Seņor Member podolefsky's Avatar
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    Looks like some great work. I like the PVC (I used a gallon paint can...just happens to be 6.7" diameter).

    On the motor mount - the AC-20 is pretty long. I'd recommend adding a brace to the other side of the motor to keep it from sagging or twisting. Here's a picture of my old D&D motor with a face mount and brace. The brace bolts together with a rubber gasket.




    Here is a new brace I made for my AC-20. The front piece is thinner than the old one (5 mm), and it has held up just fine.

    brace_closed (Medium).jpgbrace_open (Medium).jpg


    Also not a bad idea to add a chain guard. I was able to use the original from the GSX-R, bolted to the motor mount.

    mounted_new_1 (Medium).JPG
    Last edited by podolefsky; 16 January 2014 at 1952.
    - Noah Podolefsky -
    The GSX-E

  6. #15
    Member robermelendez's Avatar
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    Hey guys,

    thanks a bunch for the motor mounting suggestions, it looks similar to what we were thinking of doing. Looking from the suggestions from Ted and Podolefsky looks like there is no support on the "forwardmost" part of the motor, how is that working out? Do you find the need for a third anchor point in the front?

    look out for more updates and thanks for the feedback!

    R

  7. #16
    Seņor Member podolefsky's Avatar
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    With the face mount and brace, two anchor points are more than enough. I've been running mine that way for 3 years (almost to the day - yesterday was my bike's 3rd birthday ). No issues.
    - Noah Podolefsky -
    The GSX-E

  8. #17
    Seņor Member podolefsky's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ted Dillard View Post
    More AC20 mount ideas as well: http://www.gothammachine.com/2012/05...ount-for-gsxr/

    Looking good, sir! I'm excited to hear how they do programming the controller.

    Ooh...those look really nice. That might be aluminum from Colorado - I sold Clark at Gotham a bunch of 1/2" plate in March 2012.
    - Noah Podolefsky -
    The GSX-E

  9. #18
    Member robermelendez's Avatar
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    Sweet! thanks for the mounting tips! Great resource!

    @podolefsky: do you happen to have any electric/magnetic parameters for the AC-20? I am reading the sevcon gen4 manual to get some tips for tuning the motors (manual available here: http://www.thunderstruck-ev.com/Manu...anual_V3.0.pdf)

    Here are the parameters that I need:

    eScreen Shot 2014-01-19 at 12.33.19 PM.jpg

    The electrical parameters are stator and rotor resistance, stator and motor inductance and the magnetizing inductance. I think I might be able to get these with a LCR meter once i have the motor, but some of the other parameters listed I may need a dyno or something to find out.

    Do you have any info/tips on how to do this? I am assuming you are running the curtis and Ac20 combo right?

    Thanks!

  10. #19
    Empulse R #24 frodus's Avatar
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    Some of those are measured values. Get an LCR meter and measure the inductance and resistance. It can vary slightly between motors (shouldn't be much but it does vary). I'll see what I can get from HPEVS.

  11. #20
    Member robermelendez's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by podolefsky View Post
    With the face mount and brace, two anchor points are more than enough. I've been running mine that way for 3 years (almost to the day - yesterday was my bike's 3rd birthday ). No issues.
    @noah what chain and what reduction are you running on your AC20 bike? I have heard of ppl using #40 chain but i have also heard some people are having trouble with the #40 chain and the 12 tooth sprockets on the drive side.

    My swingarm limits the max sprocket size, I was thinking of using a 60 tooth #40 sprocket.

    Roberto

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