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Thread: Kawasaki ZX-6R Conversion - "Cholocycle"

              
   
   
  1. #21
    Seņor Member podolefsky's Avatar
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    I'm running 520 chain, 12 front, 55 rear. Works well with 76V nominal. It's been fine so far, but I wouldn't want to go any smaller in front. I also have a clearance issue (totally unnecessary but cool looking swingarm brace gets in the way with anything bigger than 55 rear).

    I don't know about running 12t #40. It does make a tighter bend, but it's also lighter chain, so might be OK. I'm not sure what sprockets Ed is using in the Juiced Cafe, but I know it's 420 chain.

    Whatever you use, make sure the sprockets and chain match up. #50 fits 530, for 520 you have to turn the sprocket down. #40 fits 425 chain, but you have to turn it down for 420. It's a mix and match game. You can use industrial #40 chain, but I'd recommend a quality o-ring chain from a motorcycle chain company.

    Check the charts here:

    http://www.gizmology.net/sprockets.htm


    Also, on the AC-20 parameters, I don't know. Go with what Travis said.
    - Noah Podolefsky -
    The GSX-E

  2. #22
    Moderator Nuts & Volts's Avatar
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    I use 420 on my R6 and saved 3.3lbs over a 520 chain. I used #41 industrial steel front sprockets which seem to fit 420 chain just fine. I have 14 tooth front and 65 rear. I had to get a custom rear made by sprocket specialists. Im putting 30-35kW thru it at the moment with no issues.

    I can also get you a link to a 420 oring chain if you want that. I used 154 links I think

    Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk
    Last edited by Nuts & Volts; 19 January 2014 at 1947.
    Whats under my tank may shock you!!! R6 Build, Blog/, [/URL] OSU Current webpage

  3. #23
    Member robermelendez's Avatar
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    Cool, thanks for the advice guys, yeah can you send me the link to the oring chain pls? thanks

    My plan for the rear sprocket was to buy the machinable sprocket and CNC machine the bolt circle, the bore and the lightening features.

    I'll keep you guys updated on the tuning quest.

  4. #24
    Moderator Nuts & Volts's Avatar
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    http://www.srtoffroad.com/node/331

    Cost more, so maybe get cheap stuff if you are prototyping fit and stuff. I had to get two chains to fit my bike so that was a bit annoying and added cost. Otherwise quality chain
    Whats under my tank may shock you!!! R6 Build, Blog/, [/URL] OSU Current webpage

  5. #25
    Seņor Member podolefsky's Avatar
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    If they have the right one, save yourself the trouble and get a Sprocket Specialists already machined for your bike. Unless you just like machining (which I completely understand).

    With #41 and 420, the roller diameter is a few thou off. Might wear a little faster, but probably OK (just a guess, I haven't done it).
    - Noah Podolefsky -
    The GSX-E

  6. #26
    Seņor Member podolefsky's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nuts & Volts View Post
    http://www.srtoffroad.com/node/331

    Cost more, so maybe get cheap stuff if you are prototyping fit and stuff. I had to get two chains to fit my bike so that was a bit annoying and added cost. Otherwise quality chain

    Dang, that's still pretty cheap. I like that they come with rivet and clip links. Clips are nice if you don't have a rivet tool (I don't), and you're taking the chain off a lot (which you will while you're experimenting). I think my RK XSO 520 chains, with 120 links, were about $100.
    - Noah Podolefsky -
    The GSX-E

  7. #27
    Moderator Nuts & Volts's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by podolefsky View Post
    With #41 and 420, the roller diameter is a few thou off. Might wear a little faster, but probably OK (just a guess, I haven't done it).
    Yep, good thing I have no perspective on chain life wear haha It rolls smooth (no binding) and is quieter than the 520 chain. I should do a video soon with the noise level if people want something to compare.

    The chain works up to 100mph if that matters
    Whats under my tank may shock you!!! R6 Build, Blog/, [/URL] OSU Current webpage

  8. #28
    Moderator Nuts & Volts's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ted Dillard View Post
    I'm a little confused by this.

    The master links are absolutely essential - trying to re-rivet a chain is crazy talk unless you're a shop making up chains, and even then, it's dicey. You still need a master link.

    Every motorcycle chain I've bought includes them, but if you're buying an industrial chain you have to order them separately, like from McMaster Carr.

    A chain tool is usually just a little screw-press thing that drives the rivet out easily, ("cutting" the chain) to be replaced by either a master link or an expansion link, right? You don't even really need one, I find it's easier to do the vice-drift thing than it is to find my chain tool (that my teenager stole from me). But a rivet tool? I'd be hard-pressed to even find one. (oh, what a bad pun)

    Maybe I'm misunderstanding? Or just being OCD?
    A lot of racing organizations won't let you run with a master link so when you need to change the chain you have to put in a new rivet. You buy a new link and then hammer the ends so that the rod can not slide out of the end plate. We had to do this at the Isle to race. We had Rob's father do it because he had the most experience putting those things on. It's kind of a pain

    Sorry I don't know the names for the various parts of the chain.
    Whats under my tank may shock you!!! R6 Build, Blog/, [/URL] OSU Current webpage

  9. #29
    Seņor Member podolefsky's Avatar
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    I think just a matter of terminology. I know of two types of master link: rivet and clip. (there could be more, those are just the two I know and what I *think* they're called - what I'm calling rivet could be what Ted is calling expansion)

    Rivet has little holes in the ends of the pins, and you need a tool to press the pins out (or a vice/clamp and something cone shaped). More-or-less permanent. Clip, the pins have grooves that a clip fits into, and you just slip the clip on (sometimes with the help of a hammer and screwdriver). You can just pop it off to remove the chain - for cleaning, or if you want to adjust the length.

    The motorcycle chains I've bought all came with the rivet type, and I had to buy a clip type separately. I meant it was cool that the chains N&V linked to came with both.
    Last edited by podolefsky; 20 January 2014 at 1618.
    - Noah Podolefsky -
    The GSX-E

  10. #30
    Seņor Member podolefsky's Avatar
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    I've also seen this referred to as a "rivet master link":



    From here. Also see here.

    Whatever it's called, that's what I meant. You put them on with a special tool.

    I've bought 3 RK 520XSO chains and all three came with the rivet type (even one that said it came with clip, strangely). I have 3 520 rivet master links in a drawer if anyone wants one...
    Last edited by podolefsky; 20 January 2014 at 1652.
    - Noah Podolefsky -
    The GSX-E

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