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Thread: Another wiring diagram looking for feedback - Please

              
   
   
  1. #1
    I should be working! furyphoto's Avatar
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    Another wiring diagram looking for feedback - Please

    I posted this previously in my main build thread, but it quickly got buried.

    Here is my V.1.0 diagram featuring 120vac household/240vac J1772 dual input charging, and Arduino powered Fingerprint Scanner ignition .

    No BMS at the moment, I haven't decided on one yet, I'm considering doing my own Arduino powered very simple monitor for HV and LV cut and monitoring, no active balancing.

    Let me know if you see any egregious errors (or tiny ones for that matter)

    -Andrew

    http://www.andrewdoran.com
    mail(at)andrewdoran.com

    My ElMoto Project "Electric Hurricane" - 1987 Honda CBR600 F1: Check out my Build ALBUM
    My ICE Cafe Racer Project "My Precious" - 1983 Honda CM400 Classic

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    Senior Member Stevo's Avatar
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    So... you only have 30 seconds to get your gloves on?!! LOL
    Just kiddin, thats awesome!

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    Empulse R #24 frodus's Avatar
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    Fuse the input to all loads....

    You fused the controller but you need to fuse the input to the dc-dc and the loads right after the 12v aux battery.
    Travis

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    Seņor Member podolefsky's Avatar
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    You want KSI (Alltrax pin 1) to be switched. Right now the controller is going to be on all the time. Once the caps charge, there will be no current through the precharge resistor and KSI will see pack voltage.

    I'd use a solid state relay to switch high voltage at KSI with low voltage from the DC/DC.
    - Noah Podolefsky -
    The GSX-E

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    I should be working! furyphoto's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by frodus View Post
    Fuse the input to all loads....

    You fused the controller but you need to fuse the input to the dc-dc and the loads right after the 12v aux battery.
    I believe the DC - DC has a built in fuse on the input, but I will double check, thanks. Will definitely add a fuse to the battery, I totally missed that.
    -Andrew

    http://www.andrewdoran.com
    mail(at)andrewdoran.com

    My ElMoto Project "Electric Hurricane" - 1987 Honda CBR600 F1: Check out my Build ALBUM
    My ICE Cafe Racer Project "My Precious" - 1983 Honda CM400 Classic

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    I should be working! furyphoto's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by podolefsky View Post
    You want KSI (Alltrax pin 1) to be switched. Right now the controller is going to be on all the time. Once the caps charge, there will be no current through the precharge resistor and KSI will see pack voltage.

    I'd use a solid state relay to switch high voltage at KSI with low voltage from the DC/DC.
    Noah, thanks for your feedback, I'm not sure I completely follow. I thought switching the KSI from the contactor would be sufficient to have the controller active while the HV system is armed. KSI is supposed to see pack voltage, no? Is it having KSI behind the precharge resistor that is the issue?

    I will run solid state relays wherever practical, I will add one on the KSI if needed, I'm just not sure I understand why you are suggesting, it's my first controller experience.
    -Andrew

    http://www.andrewdoran.com
    mail(at)andrewdoran.com

    My ElMoto Project "Electric Hurricane" - 1987 Honda CBR600 F1: Check out my Build ALBUM
    My ICE Cafe Racer Project "My Precious" - 1983 Honda CM400 Classic

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    Seņor Member podolefsky's Avatar
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    Yup, it's the resistor. When there is no current flowing through the resistor there is no voltage drop, so both sides will be at pack voltage. I'm pretty sure that will cause the controller to turn on.

    If you didn't have the resistor it would work the way you drew it. But you need the resistor.
    - Noah Podolefsky -
    The GSX-E

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    I should be working! furyphoto's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by podolefsky View Post
    Yup, it's the resistor. When there is no current flowing through the resistor there is no voltage drop, so both sides will be at pack voltage. I'm pretty sure that will cause the controller to turn on.

    If you didn't have the resistor it would work the way you drew it. But you need the resistor.
    Oh yeah, totally makes sense now. Not sure how i fumbled it, I guess i wasn't thinking of the resistor as a connection to both sides of the contactor, but of course it is. Thanks, Ill fix it.
    -Andrew

    http://www.andrewdoran.com
    mail(at)andrewdoran.com

    My ElMoto Project "Electric Hurricane" - 1987 Honda CBR600 F1: Check out my Build ALBUM
    My ICE Cafe Racer Project "My Precious" - 1983 Honda CM400 Classic

  9. #9
    I should be working! furyphoto's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by podolefsky View Post

    I'd use a solid state relay to switch high voltage at KSI with low voltage from the DC/DC.
    Do happen to have an suggestion for an appropriate relay? I'm checking the data sheet for the controller now and looking, but all suggestions (if you happen to know a good source) are appreciated.
    -Andrew

    http://www.andrewdoran.com
    mail(at)andrewdoran.com

    My ElMoto Project "Electric Hurricane" - 1987 Honda CBR600 F1: Check out my Build ALBUM
    My ICE Cafe Racer Project "My Precious" - 1983 Honda CM400 Classic

  10. #10
    Seņor Member podolefsky's Avatar
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    I like the Crouzet GN84134850. It's panel mount, opto isolated, very heavy duty. Has a nifty LED to let you know when it's on. Pricey though, about $80.

    I also like the Panasonic AQ1AD2-3/28VDC. PCB mount, more compact and a lot cheaper, about $20. I've soldered wires to the pins and used them free standing with heavy duty double stick tape.
    - Noah Podolefsky -
    The GSX-E

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