Power in Flux
Likes Likes:  5
Page 7 of 7 FirstFirst ... 567
Results 61 to 66 of 66

Thread: Nic's Kawasaki Ninja 250 EV conversion

              
   
   
  1. #61
    Senior Member Stevo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Behind the Redwood Curtain- REDWOOD ORIGINAL!!
    Posts
    458
    Post Thanks / Like
    Why wait? I thought my bike would be slower going up hills with the taller gearing and I was pleasantly surprised that the bike felt way better, even from a dead stop. For me, the throttle felt better with the 16t
    Current rides: '96 Honda Ohlins VFR, '03 Cannondale C440R, '03 Cannondale Cannibal, '06 Yamaha 450 Wolverine 4x4
    Current builds: http://elmoto.net/showthread.php?t=4354

  2. #62
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Posts
    107
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Nicman View Post
    The front sprocket slides on to the rotor on the electric motor. It is held there by the 1/16" key with two set screws to hold it in position. The sprocket moved left off center of the rotor. It was no longer staying in place on the rotor, hence "sliding off" while under throttle. I don't really know how else to explain it. I believe it was because the chain was so tight, a 530x120, that I am replacing with a 530x130 that I will break down to 122.

    the 13 tooth front works just fine and is the same 7/8" diameter. I am getting the chain this week so I put the old 13tooth back on for now.
    The key is probably a 3/16" square one(standard for a 7/8" diameter shaft). What you call the rotor is usually called the motor output shaft or motor shaft, for short. The motor shaft is threaded on the inside for a bolt. A bolt and washer should be used to keep the sprocket on the shaft. Better yet, a sprocket with a tapered bushing feature would give the most secure attachment. It's doubtful that using a longer chain will significantly reduce the chain tension. The adjusters on the end of the swing arm and the pull of the motor under power exert the greatest force on the chain.
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Diamond-Tap...-/351762227350
    Last edited by Electro Flyers; 08 February 2018 at 1755.

  3. #63
    Member Nicman's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    Jackonsville, FL
    Posts
    44
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Electro Flyers View Post
    The key is probable a 3/16" square one(standard for a 7/8" diameter shaft). What you call the rotor is usually called the motor output shaft or motor shaft, for short. The motor shaft is threaded on the inside for a bolt. A bolt and washer should be used to keep the sprocket on the shaft. Better yet, a sprocket with a taped bushing feature would give the most secure attachment. It's doubtful that using a longer chain will significantly reduce the chain tension. The adjusters on the end of the swing arm and the pull of the motor under power exert the greatest force on the chain.
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Diamond-Tap...-/351762227350
    Oops! Yes 3/16Ē key.

    When I put the 17T front sprocket on the motor shaft, I had to put the swing arm adjusters all the way in. There was no slack at all on the chain and I donít want that at all. Iíll check out the threads youíre talking about and Iím sure that would help a lot.
    I know that the 13T had no problems at all so I just assumed that the chain tension was the issue. Even if it isnít the problem, I think that my chain would be really abused every time I hit any bump or had any spring travel.

    Good to know that your bike feels better with the 16T. I really love the acceleration and felt a small tinge of disappointment that I didnít have the top speed I needed and had to sacrifice acceleration.





    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  4. #64
    Member Nicman's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    Jackonsville, FL
    Posts
    44
    Post Thanks / Like

    Nic's Kawasaki Ninja 250 EV conversion

    First full test of the range with the 13T and 65T rear. Was able to get 47 miles, using apx 500Watt Hours.
    At the end, I had about 65v in the pack and could only manage 25 MPH. Found a bank about a mile from home that had a 120v GFCI that I got a quick 5 minute charge to make home.
    I donít like doing that,(this being the first and hopefully last time).
    But now I know from a full charge (about 90v) I can get 45 miles. 50 if I go easy and avoid the Highways.

    Iíll use this as my benchmark to test against the 17T front this week.


    IMG_5804.JPG
    Last edited by Nicman; 06 February 2018 at 1541.

  5. #65
    Member Nicman's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    Jackonsville, FL
    Posts
    44
    Post Thanks / Like

    Nic's Kawasaki Ninja 250 EV conversion

    New sprocket and chain are on! The 17T does accelerate a tad slower(that I can almost not even notice) but now hits 84MPH.
    I took the highway for an extra two miles today to gauge HW efficiency and with the new gearing Iím getting about a27% improvement.
    Used 83watt hours on the highway route compared to 110-121 when it had the 13T on.

    Very happy with this change, the bike is much quieter even. Thanks to electro flyer for the tips on the motor output shaft threads. I donít foresee having the issue of a missing sprocket anytime soon.




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Last edited by Nicman; 08 February 2018 at 0721.

  6. #66
    Senior Member Stevo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Behind the Redwood Curtain- REDWOOD ORIGINAL!!
    Posts
    458
    Post Thanks / Like
    Congrats! And also good to see you tapping some of your hard earned money back from the bank!!! LOL!!
    Current rides: '96 Honda Ohlins VFR, '03 Cannondale C440R, '03 Cannondale Cannibal, '06 Yamaha 450 Wolverine 4x4
    Current builds: http://elmoto.net/showthread.php?t=4354

  7. Likes Nicman liked this post
Page 7 of 7 FirstFirst ... 567

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •