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Thread: Nic's Kawasaki Ninja 250 EV conversion

              
   
   
  1. #61
    Senior Member Stevo's Avatar
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    Why wait? I thought my bike would be slower going up hills with the taller gearing and I was pleasantly surprised that the bike felt way better, even from a dead stop. For me, the throttle felt better with the 16t
    Current rides: '96 Honda Ohlins VFR, '03 Cannondale C440R, '03 Cannondale Cannibal, '06 Yamaha 450 Wolverine 4x4
    Current builds: WORX.VOR.v3.2

  2. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nicman View Post
    The front sprocket slides on to the rotor on the electric motor. It is held there by the 1/16" key with two set screws to hold it in position. The sprocket moved left off center of the rotor. It was no longer staying in place on the rotor, hence "sliding off" while under throttle. I don't really know how else to explain it. I believe it was because the chain was so tight, a 530x120, that I am replacing with a 530x130 that I will break down to 122.

    the 13 tooth front works just fine and is the same 7/8" diameter. I am getting the chain this week so I put the old 13tooth back on for now.
    The key is probably a 3/16" square one(standard for a 7/8" diameter shaft). What you call the rotor is usually called the motor output shaft or motor shaft, for short. The motor shaft is threaded on the inside for a bolt. A bolt and washer should be used to keep the sprocket on the shaft. Better yet, a sprocket with a tapered bushing feature would give the most secure attachment. It's doubtful that using a longer chain will significantly reduce the chain tension. The adjusters on the end of the swing arm and the pull of the motor under power exert the greatest force on the chain.
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Diamond-Tap...-/351762227350
    Last edited by Electro Flyers; 08 February 2018 at 1755.

  3. #63
    Senior Member Nicman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Electro Flyers View Post
    The key is probable a 3/16" square one(standard for a 7/8" diameter shaft). What you call the rotor is usually called the motor output shaft or motor shaft, for short. The motor shaft is threaded on the inside for a bolt. A bolt and washer should be used to keep the sprocket on the shaft. Better yet, a sprocket with a taped bushing feature would give the most secure attachment. It's doubtful that using a longer chain will significantly reduce the chain tension. The adjusters on the end of the swing arm and the pull of the motor under power exert the greatest force on the chain.
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Diamond-Tap...-/351762227350
    Oops! Yes 3/16Ē key.

    When I put the 17T front sprocket on the motor shaft, I had to put the swing arm adjusters all the way in. There was no slack at all on the chain and I donít want that at all. Iíll check out the threads youíre talking about and Iím sure that would help a lot.
    I know that the 13T had no problems at all so I just assumed that the chain tension was the issue. Even if it isnít the problem, I think that my chain would be really abused every time I hit any bump or had any spring travel.

    Good to know that your bike feels better with the 16T. I really love the acceleration and felt a small tinge of disappointment that I didnít have the top speed I needed and had to sacrifice acceleration.





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  4. #64
    Senior Member Nicman's Avatar
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    Nic's Kawasaki Ninja 250 EV conversion

    First full test of the range with the 13T and 65T rear. Was able to get 47 miles, using apx 500Watt Hours.
    At the end, I had about 65v in the pack and could only manage 25 MPH. Found a bank about a mile from home that had a 120v GFCI that I got a quick 5 minute charge to make home.
    I donít like doing that,(this being the first and hopefully last time).
    But now I know from a full charge (about 90v) I can get 45 miles. 50 if I go easy and avoid the Highways.

    Iíll use this as my benchmark to test against the 17T front this week.


    IMG_5804.JPG
    Last edited by Nicman; 06 February 2018 at 1541.

  5. #65
    Senior Member Nicman's Avatar
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    Nic's Kawasaki Ninja 250 EV conversion

    New sprocket and chain are on! The 17T does accelerate a tad slower(that I can almost not even notice) but now hits 84MPH.
    I took the highway for an extra two miles today to gauge HW efficiency and with the new gearing Iím getting about a27% improvement.
    Used 83watt hours on the highway route compared to 110-121 when it had the 13T on.

    Very happy with this change, the bike is much quieter even. Thanks to electro flyer for the tips on the motor output shaft threads. I donít foresee having the issue of a missing sprocket anytime soon.




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    Last edited by Nicman; 08 February 2018 at 0721.

  6. #66
    Senior Member Stevo's Avatar
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    Congrats! And also good to see you tapping some of your hard earned money back from the bank!!! LOL!!
    Current rides: '96 Honda Ohlins VFR, '03 Cannondale C440R, '03 Cannondale Cannibal, '06 Yamaha 450 Wolverine 4x4
    Current builds: WORX.VOR.v3.2

  7. Likes Nicman, T Rush liked this post
  8. #67
    Senior Member Nicman's Avatar
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    After 6 months of riding nearly everyday, I have more impressions about my first E-Motorcycle.

    Total cost to convert ~$4,200
    ~$200 insurance savings
    ~$700 in gas savings.
    Total conversion Savings (and going up)=$900/6month *2= $1,800/yr.

    In 3 years time I will have paid for the whole cost of conversion, by cutting out costs like maintenance for ICE car.

    I've also been changed as a person. Realizing that this is something many people don't believe they could ever do, or are interested in doing. But that they could do it, on their own terms , with little to no experience makes me want to share that feeling of success and accomplishment with others.

    I am attempting to build a second bike, http://elmoto.net/showthread.php?t=4631 and as I find out if this really is something I enjoy, it may become my new career, first as a side business but maybe one day full-time. I feel like there is a whole world out there that I had no idea about 3 years ago and now I am part of that community and enjoy spreading the word about EVs. I am truly now an EVangelist.20180428_154617 (1).jpg
    Last edited by Nicman; 08 June 2018 at 1151. Reason: a word

  9. #68
    Senior Member Nicman's Avatar
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    I'm looking at parts for the ZXR and came across this...
    http://www.thunderstruck-ev.com/allt...llers-new.html

    I think this is a better controller than my current one.
    $800 seems a bit high for only 70amps more peak. Would finding a used on for $400-500 still be worth it?



    I currently have the AXE7245 for my ME1003.
    https://alltraxinc.com/axe-products/
    2 min max= 450A
    5 min max=350A
    1 hour max = 200A

  10. #69
    Senior Member Stevo's Avatar
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    I saw that on ALLTrax's website quite a while ago and was wondering if anyone has tried one. I haven't seen anybody on here using one of these controllers yet, so you would possibly be the first
    Current rides: '96 Honda Ohlins VFR, '03 Cannondale C440R, '03 Cannondale Cannibal, '06 Yamaha 450 Wolverine 4x4
    Current builds: WORX.VOR.v3.2

  11. #70
    Senior Member Nicman's Avatar
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    Hey guys! A bit of an update.
    I replaced the brushes in the ME1003 because at about 1,800 Eve miles, I smelled burning metal, looked down and had to pull over.

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

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