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Thread: My new contactor does not close with controller

              
   
   
  1. #1
    Senior Member Hugues's Avatar
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    My new contactor does not close with controller

    Hi guys,

    strange thing happening here, i want to change my contactor for a new one,

    - current : Albright SW200-29 24 V
    - new : Tyco EV200AAANA 12-24 V

    - I know my controller works and provides 24 volts because my current contactor closes when i push my main switch
    - But when i connect my new contactor it does not close
    - But i know my new one works because i connected it to a 14 v battery and it closes
    - i checked to be sure polarity is not inverted, it is not. I even tried to invert it.

    Maybe this info can help troubleshoot the issue:

    - At present my current contactor closes a brief instant and re-opens right away because my battery is not connected yet to B+.
    - So i measure the voltage with my multimeter and i read around 19 volts for a brief moment when my contactor closes
    - But if i do the same operation with my new contactor, i read only 1 or 2 volts.
    - I even tried to connect the 2 contactors in parallel, when i do this, none of them is closing. As if the new one is sinking the voltage of the Curtis output.

    Remember that Curtis controller output to the controller is a PWM voltage. I set it at 23% of 106 volts, which is about 24 volts. Could it be that the Tyco does not work with PWM ?

    Puzzled.
    Last edited by Hugues; 26 August 2016 at 1205.
    Regards from Switzerland
    My 2.5 Upgrade Thread

  2. #2
    Senior Member Hugues's Avatar
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    fixed,

    turns out this contactor uses an economizer board and this is incompatible with the Curtis 1238-7601,

    i removed the board and it works.

    wish the seller mentions this in the specs, especially they also sell the 1238-7601.
    Regards from Switzerland
    My 2.5 Upgrade Thread

  3. #3
    Empulse R #24 frodus's Avatar
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    AN Economizer PWM's and needs constant voltage on its input. The Curtis PWM's its contactor output, it is NOT a constant 24VDC, it's 24VDC average. Both of those things are in the manuals, and while not clear, they're going to fight each other. The only contactor that the HPEVS systems are sold with are LEV200 (without economizer) or the gigavac's.

    I wouldn't take off the economizer, that coil is NOT a 24VDC coil. It's much lower, designed to ONLY work with the economizer. Tried that once, and had to lower the voltage quite a bit to get it to work well without putting too much current in the coil.

    I'd return the EV200 and get the right contactor.

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  5. #4
    Senior Member Hugues's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by frodus View Post
    AN Economizer PWM's and needs constant voltage on its input. The Curtis PWM's its contactor output, it is NOT a constant 24VDC, it's 24VDC average. Both of those things are in the manuals, and while not clear, they're going to fight each other. The only contactor that the HPEVS systems are sold with are LEV200 (without economizer) or the gigavac's.

    I wouldn't take off the economizer, that coil is NOT a 24VDC coil. It's much lower, designed to ONLY work with the economizer. Tried that once, and had to lower the voltage quite a bit to get it to work well without putting too much current in the coil.

    I'd return the EV200 and get the right contactor.
    ok thanks
    i've re-installed my previous contactor.
    Regards from Switzerland
    My 2.5 Upgrade Thread

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