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Thread: 2004 Kawasaki ex500

              
   
   
  1. #11
    Member Ted Dillard's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Duck-Stew View Post
    As a suggestion: try if possible to opt for sprockets with odd number of teeth. They last longer as the inside plate of the chain will hit every spot between the teeth instead of every other one. They also run a little quieter.
    wuuuuuut?

    ...step away from the eggnog, sir, and keep your hands where we can see 'em.
    Power in Flux: The History of Electric Motorcycles
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  3. #12
    Member Duck-Stew's Avatar
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    Think about it Ted...
    '10 Zero S project

  4. #13
    Member Ted Dillard's Avatar
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    I've done a lot more than think about it, sir.

    Regarding chain life and sprocket teeth, none other than the magnificent Sheldon Brown: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chain-life.html

    ...however, if you really want to get more life out of a chain, his piece on maintenance is far more enlightening: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chains.html

    Yeah, ol' Sheldon is talking bicycles, but chain drives are chain drives. The point being, there's a heck of a lot more to worry about than how many teeth your sprocket has.

    Let's get back to the thread, now...
    Last edited by Ted Dillard; 28 December 2017 at 1341.
    Power in Flux: The History of Electric Motorcycles
    www.powerinflux.com

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  6. #14
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    I haven't posted in a while, but I have been busy. I bought a rear 60 tooth sprocket from sprocket specialists for 520 chain before anyone had replied about proper chain sizing. I also got a front 14 tooth sprocket from Mcmaster carr, but it is too thick. I think I will have to grind off some excess thickness. I already tried turning the thickness down on my lathe, but the sprocket was harder than the tools on this very old and cheap lathe.

    I tore down and re-assembled the entire bike and I'm glad I did so because the entire rear suspension was only finger tight. I ensured every nut had the correct torque on re-assembly. I painted the plastics and stripped away most of the electrical system, leaving only the necessary 12V system to run the lights, gauges, and horn. I disassembled the tachometer, laser cut a new backplate and reverse engineered the signalling frequency to drive it. For anyone else who may be interested, the tachometer takes a 5V PWM signal (50% duty cycle, 0-~375 Hz) at a higher amperage than a microcontroller can deliver on its own. I ended up developing an arduino prototype board that will eventually interface with my Honeywell CSLA2EL hall effect linear current sensor to give an accurate estimate of current draw while riding.

    I got my batteries from Hybridautocenter today and crudely assembled them into a pack. I think I am going to try to remove some of the protruding metal pieces from some of the batteries and add thick leather washers between each battery so that the bulge on some of these batteries do not have to touch (see pictures). I have no idea how to go about removing those metal bits. Luckily, HAC also shipped the batteries with the wires necessary to connect a BMS. I haven't figured out my BMS solution yet, but I will connect the wires anyway as a future upgrade.

    I expect to receive the rest of my parts tomorrow except for my charger and DC/DC converter which should come later in the month.

    Right now I have to figure out how to securely mount the batteries in the bike. They just barely fit between the lower two bars, but I need to grind off some factory welds first.

  7. #15
    Member Nicman's Avatar
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    If you got Nissan Leaf batteries make sure each cell is at a nominal voltage of ~7.6v. If they all are, and you wire them in series for your total pack voltage you may not need a BMS. I am not running one and my cells are staying very well balanced. My charger charges to 90.2v then shuts off. I havenít had any problems. Although Iím still pretty new to the scene.

    I hear you about the thickness of the sprocket. I had to buy a 530 chain and then it fit my sprocket perfectly.
    Look forward to seeing your progress.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  8. #16
    Senior Member Stevo's Avatar
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    The quickest and cheapest way to grind those sprockets down is with a 4 1/2" angle grinder with a metal cut-off disc...and a steady hand. I've done a bunch and they all work perfect. I'm going to try and find a crossover sprocket match that will fit the 7/8" Motenergy motor shafts and take one of the ones I cut with the crossover to my local machinest to see if he can make a cool adapter. That's what we need.
    Current rides: '96 Honda Ohlins VFR, '03 Cannondale C440R, '03 Cannondale Cannibal, '06 Yamaha 450 Wolverine 4x4

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