Power in Flux
Likes Likes:  3
Page 4 of 4 FirstFirst ... 234
Results 31 to 35 of 35

Thread: 1980 Kawasaki 440 LTD 8kW conversion-Workin' toward the conclusion

              
   
   
  1. #31
    Senior Member Ted Dillard's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Posts
    335
    Post Thanks / Like
    Yeah, I actually firmly believe digital readouts with just numbers are not particularly good for motorcycles (read: dangerous). I always go for the dials (either traditional volt/amp meters) or digital facsimiles of dials are far more useful. You should pretty much never take your eyes off the road, no matter the speed, and taking them off to try to see and interpret numbers (unless that's how your particular brain works) is way too risky. 40 years of riding talkin' here.

    The Mission was pretty impressive:



    I found one that was pretty amazing Andromeda product from putting together the (never to be built) CBRe:
    https://evmc2.wordpress.com/2014/12/...perbike-check/

    screen-shot-2014-12-20-at-6-11-45-am.jpg

    I see they're still around: http://ai-hmi.com/#about

    This is one that is affordable, though, and might work for your next setup: https://amzn.to/2DzgRGX

    41ZJAWo9acL.jpg

    edit: Just found this again: https://evmc2.wordpress.com/2010/02/...de-in-the-usa/

    ...it's what I used on the R5e.

    toughdcvolt.jpg
    Last edited by Ted Dillard; 26 September 2018 at 0738.
    Power in Flux: The History of Electric Motorcycles
    www.powerinflux.com

  2. #32
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Posts
    143
    Post Thanks / Like
    FA: why not start by posting a complete, up to date(not from months ago) schematic of what you have now.

  3. #33
    Banned
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Posts
    114
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Ted Dillard View Post
    Yeah, I actually firmly believe digital readouts with just numbers are not particularly good for motorcycles (read: dangerous). I always go for the dials (either traditional volt/amp meters) or digital facsimiles of dials are far more useful. You should pretty much never take your eyes off the road, no matter the speed, and taking them off to try to see and interpret numbers (unless that's how your particular brain works) is way too risky. 40 years of riding talkin' here.
    Nice meters, thanks for the links.

    I didn't really mean while riding (if so, just a quick glance, kinda like lookin' at the speedometer, to check your speed)

    I like the digital meters so far, we'll see.

    I just meant that I shouldn't have to actually stop the bike, lean forward & shade the meter just to see the readings.

  4. #34
    Banned
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Posts
    114
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Electro Flyers View Post
    FA: why not start by posting a complete, up to date(not from months ago) schematic of what you have now.
    That's easier said than done,

    As you know, there is (2) different systems (12V & 48V) running side by side simultaneously.

    They are totally isolated from each other, but also thoughtfully interact with each other.

    Here is a template of what I have so far.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  5. #35
    Banned
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Posts
    114
    Post Thanks / Like
    Here is the wiring diagram I came up with.

    I tried to simplify things as much as possible (mainly for myself)

    I drew out all of the components, roughly where they are on the bike & labeled them.

    Then, just started connecting the dots (so to speak)

    The purple "t" (down the middle from the head light to the tail light & from the brake lever to the throttle) represents the stock Kawasaki 12V wiring harness.

    The (2) systems interact in a couple of places.

    First, when the DC to DC convertor connects to the (~48V) battery pack (red & black) & reduces it down, (yellow & black) to power the 12V systems.

    Second, I connected a relay to the (blue) wire that powered the "coil" on the old ICE engine, to be able to switch the 48V speed controller on & off using the stock key switch & also the off/run/off switch right next to the throttle.

    Third, I also connected & drew 12V (red & black) from the stock harness, to power the Amp/Volt meter.
    Attached Images Attached Images

Page 4 of 4 FirstFirst ... 234

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •