Power in Flux
Likes Likes:  0
Page 3 of 7 FirstFirst 12345 ... LastLast
Results 21 to 30 of 62

Thread: Spark's Saga

              
   
   
  1. #21
    o_O
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Austin
    Posts
    431
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by frodus View Post
    As far as the DC_DC they might have meant to put an inline switch for storing it long term or something and forgot? No reason to disconnect it other than that I'd think.
    How common are DC-DC's that support 50-80v range? If the voltage strays outside the DC's working range, what typically happens? Does the output voltage sage/surge, or does it just drop out completely?

    Keep in mind that EMS uses some fairly cheap parts, aside from the main components such as motor/controller. I doubt he has a high-end DC-DC in there. The one in mine looks super cheap, like something hand-soldered in China.

  2. #22
    Empulse R #24 frodus's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    2,668
    Post Thanks / Like

    My Social Networking

    Follow frodus On Twitter
    not sure how common they are.... but the 72V DC-DC I've got on my desk is 55-100V swing. If it strays outside, it just doesn't work if its too low, or it might fry if the voltage goes too high. They don't usually operate outside their spec. A GOOD DC-DC will not let the voltage on the output drop if the input voltage drops. It will draw more current and drop the output current as needed to keep that voltage regulated.

    If you have a REALLY wide range, you should use an Aux battery and ensure it won't go overvoltage and use a DC-DC converter + aux battery in parallel in case the input to the DC-DC drops. That way, its redundant. Its what I'm doing.
    Travis

  3. #23
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Pacifica, California
    Posts
    2,911
    Post Thanks / Like
    Thinking about my problem today, after reading the comments above, it does seem that logically the DC-DC converter might be causing some sort of problem when the throttle is closed for more than a minute or so. I think my next plan is to hook up a volt meter to the 12 volt chassis system and drive around to see what voltage is being produced when the bike is running and when the throttle is closed. Maybe the voltage is too low to activate the relay that powers up the sepex motor. (Keep in mind that I continue to be confused what causes the system to switch from its regen feature to its power operation when the motor comes to a stop. I know there is something going on because I can hear a relay click and see the display on the CA go from a positive 16 amps to around .5 amps, just as the motor stops rotating.) Right now, when the system fails, it will go from a reading of .5 amps to 0.00 amps when stopped without warning and then it will take a few minutes before the system will come on again. It sure seems like something is getting hot and then needs to cool off before working again. And it continues to defy logic that the problem has never occurred when the bike is moving, only when it is stopped.

    Attached is a photo of someone else's DC-DC converter (that I inserted and then couldn't figure out how to delete) on the left and a photo of my converter in the middle. You can also see it on the right-side photo of my bike.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  4. #24
    o_O
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Austin
    Posts
    431
    Post Thanks / Like
    That's my DC-DC. I can tell by the taps used to power the USB port

  5. #25
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Pacifica, California
    Posts
    2,911
    Post Thanks / Like
    My friend, who is helping me with my GPR-S, contacted a Sevcon expert today about the controller and here is the message that he sent me:

    1. The Sevcon Powerpak SEM (Model # 632S84622) you have is not RS-232/PC programmable, however other models are, the one on your motorcycle is not.

    2. He says we need to get the programmer to pull the error code to try and pinpoint the reason controller is shutting down, After going through what little wiring there is on the bike I am convinced it's most likely not an external wiring issue.

    3. The programmer will provide us with Diagnostic information to help trouble shoot the problem. I have a call into the Sevcon Distributor, Alternative Fuels Equipment, 440-232-4111 to try and get a price on the programmer. It's not in stock at Alternative Fuels Equipment and will need to be ordered from Sevcon, and from what I gather the US office doesn't have any ether and it will require an order to the UK.


    Anyone happen to know a source for a Sevcon programmer in the US?

  6. #26
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    294
    Post Thanks / Like
    I can hear a relay click and see the display on the CA go from a positive 16 amps to around .5 amps, just as the motor stops rotating.)
    I'm not completely familiar with your setup, but what relay are you talking about?
    Are you hearing the contactor shut off? What is the function of the relay you're referring to?

  7. #27
    Not to be taken seriously DaveAK's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    2,240
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Richard230 View Post
    Anyone happen to know a source for a Sevcon programmer in the US?
    Thunderstruck-EV and Electricmotorsport both were expecting deliveries at the end of last year. They both used to rent units, and I think they still do, as does Harlan at Hollywood Electrics.

    I have a used one on its way to me and if you strike out with getting one I'll lend you mine. You'll have to wait a couple of weeks though as I want to play with it first.

  8. #28
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Pacifica, California
    Posts
    2,911
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by cycleguy View Post
    I'm not completely familiar with your setup, but what relay are you talking about?
    Are you hearing the contactor shut off? What is the function of the relay you're referring to?
    When you turn on the ignition key, after about two seconds there is a loud click from a remote electromagnet switch that powers up the system. Normally, what you do is to wait for this click and flip the kill switch on and then the bike will move forward with a turn of the throttle. A much simpler procedure than used by Brammo or Zero.

    My problem is that even after hearing the relay click, the bike will not move. This seems to occur when the vehicle has been running for a short while and then if you stop for a minute or so, the bike will not move, until I let it sit for a couple of minutes. Then it will run again. It only happens with the throttle closed for more than about 30 seconds. If you come up to a stop sign, stop and then take off immediately, it will keep running. But you want to avoid traffic lights or you will end up stalling and blocking traffic.

    I never had this problem until I took all of the batteries out of my bike and reinstalled them with the new miniBMS system. However, I do recall that when the bike was new, for the first 300 miles something similar would happen, but this was under full throttle. Sort of the opposite of what is happening now. The previous "stalling" occurred randomly for the first 300 miles and then went away. I never did discover what caused that problem or what made it disappear.

  9. #29
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Pacifica, California
    Posts
    2,911
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by DaveAK View Post
    Thunderstruck-EV and Electricmotorsport both were expecting deliveries at the end of last year. They both used to rent units, and I think they still do, as does Harlan at Hollywood Electrics.

    I have a used one on its way to me and if you strike out with getting one I'll lend you mine. You'll have to wait a couple of weeks though as I want to play with it first.
    Thanks Dave. I would like to buy a programmer to use now and to potentially use in the future when the batteries eventually get replaced with something better. I'll give Thunderstruck or EMS a try. My friend didn't mention if he asked the expert your question about the controller. I am meeting him on Sunday and will ask him in person if he remembered to ask.

  10. #30
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    294
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Richard230 View Post
    When you turn on the ignition key, after about two seconds there is a loud click from a remote electromagnet switch that powers up the system. Normally, what you do is to wait for this click and flip the kill switch on and then the bike will move forward with a turn of the throttle. A much simpler procedure than used by Brammo or Zero.

    My problem is that even after hearing the relay click, the bike will not move. This seems to occur when the vehicle has been running for a short while and then if you stop for a minute or so, the bike will not move, until I let it sit for a couple of minutes. Then it will run again. It only happens with the throttle closed for more than about 30 seconds. If you come up to a stop sign, stop and then take off immediately, it will keep running. But you want to avoid traffic lights or you will end up stalling and blocking traffic.

    I never had this problem until I took all of the batteries out of my bike and reinstalled them with the new miniBMS system. However, I do recall that when the bike was new, for the first 300 miles something similar would happen, but this was under full throttle. Sort of the opposite of what is happening now. The previous "stalling" occurred randomly for the first 300 miles and then went away. I never did discover what caused that problem or what made it disappear.
    Sounds odd to me, if the ignition switch closes the contactor (electromagnetic switch) which connects pack voltage to the controller, why is closing the kill switch necessary to make the bike move. Does the kill switch turn on your 12V system, or is that turned on with the ignition key as well? How does the kill switch disable the controller even though the contactor is closed?

Page 3 of 7 FirstFirst 12345 ... LastLast

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •