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View Full Version : How to hook up LEV-200 contractor wires?



Jack Riggi
23 January 2012, 1513
I don't have any schematic on the contractor or the motor, does any one have a simple DC set up U have already done? Also what does it mean when it says on a LEV-200 ( Current flows into A1, and out of A2). + to - ? I am really lost need some help please! not sure were the two small wires go one on the controller & the other? just a hand full of small wires to hook up now!! side stand, pod wires? kill switch start button & key switch & were to put the main fuse? later I will work on my brake lites & every thing else I still have a lot to do!!!!:) tommorrow I am ordering my batteries!!!! I really do need some help getting the Green Thang going!!!!! Help! Jack

frodus
23 January 2012, 1550
Read. The. Manual.

(for the controller)

Jack Riggi
23 January 2012, 1620
I did read it a lot but still it does not have good pictures!& I am a slow first learner I guess not ever doing this before it all seams confuseing! but i will keep reading also thanks but back to the 2 wires & help!

frodus
23 January 2012, 2130
how does your controller tell you to hook it up?

what manual are you reading? do you have a link?

Jack Riggi
23 January 2012, 2249
Says my B+ on the controller should go to my S 1 terminal and my M minus should go to my A2 terminal. I am using the stock Curtis manual for M O D E L 1253
HYDRAULIC PUMP MOTOR
C O N T R O L L E R and yes I do have a link but I don't know how to give it to you back on the subject of addresses maybe it's on your underwear haven't a clue buddy sorry I can't be more helpful. Just Google it I guess you could say that's the link for Curtis 1253 model still confused quite a bit on all the wires on the throttle pod, don't even know what model or what number it is all I know it's off a golf cart! I believe it's type O from somewhat what I can understand in the Curtis manual

frodus
23 January 2012, 2310
isn't there an EV group near you? You need someone local with actual electrical experience to help you in person.

I'm a bit weary of you hooking things up....

Jack Riggi
24 January 2012, 0232
You could not have said that any better frodus that's exactly what I need. I know no one in my area close to where I live that has any experience to help me in person .There used to be a EV group that was near me it was run by exPres. Michael Clark. Michael quit moved to Michigan got a job working in the oilfields and that was the end of that EV group! You're a bit weary I'm am a lot weary! Terrified but I got to think positive then I will get it running! I did get the back brake lights to work tonight! Thank God I learned how to use them fuses I must've went through 20 of them at least just to get the back brake lights to turn on with the foot pedal switch I'll keep looking maybe I'll get lucky and find somebody that has some personal experience with the electric to help me hook it up and like I said it's unfortunate there's no more EV group it was called Suncoast EV group!
isn't there an EV group near you? You need someone local with actual electrical experience to help you in person.

I'm a bit weary of you hooking things up....

Allen_okc
24 January 2012, 0641
:confused: im not very familiar with the curtis controller, maybe someone here who has some experience with them can help...

im also not sure what size of resistor, diodes and coils to use...

i hope this helps some...

*NOTE do not take the size of the fuses i wrote down to be correct, they are just the sizes my Alltrax uses, make sure of the size of fuses you need...

Jack Riggi
26 January 2012, 2204
I need resistor, diodes & coils too I thought I had every thing, were do they all go at! on bike?
:confused: im not very familiar with the curtis controller, maybe someone here who has some experience with them can help...

im also not sure what size of resistor, diodes and coils to use...

i hope this helps some...

*NOTE do not take the size of the fuses i wrote down to be correct, they are just the sizes my Alltrax uses, make sure of the size of fuses you need...

ibjed
26 January 2012, 2238
A golf cart mechanic might be your best bet for help if you can't find anyone else local to take a look.

Jack Riggi
26 January 2012, 2319
ok i might try that if I can't find a ev person thanks!

Biff
27 January 2012, 1356
That contactor is pretty standard. It should tell you waht voltage the coil is on the side.

Polarity on the main lugs isn't that importatnt, it just helps if you ever need to break high current which in theory should never happen. You put the battery size on the + lug and the controller side on the -. The coil itself has no polarity but works best if you a pull in voltage close to the value on the contactor, then it needs to have a hold voltage about 0.6-0.8 x the value of the coil rating if you have it in a place where cooling isn't that good.

Many controllers have their own pre-charge and contactor control with pull in and hold voltage configuration, you have to make sure your controller is configured with the proper values, and make sure you get the wiring diagram for your controller so you get the coils wired up to the contactor control pins (there is no polarity with this contactor, so one wire will go to your contactor supply (which can sometimes be battery + voltage), and one will go to contactor negative (which can sometimes be some potential below battery + voltage). That siaid, many controllers don't care about the contactor control, as long as the voltage supplied to the coontroller is in its range, it will try and deliver the desired output. In that case you can power and control your contactor externally. If you dont't want to make a pull in / hold circuit, just try driving the coil with about 0.8 of its input voltave rating (if it is a 48v contacotr, give it somewhere around 39V, and it will probably close and hold just fine without overheating)

-ryan

skyclark
27 January 2012, 1401
A golf cart mechanic might be your best bet for help if you can't find anyone else local to take a look.

This is a great idea. There are probably hundreds of golf cart techs in Florida!

Jack Riggi
27 January 2012, 2321
Thanks Ryan that's the kind information that I really needed to know so I can get my bike running. Learning about the no polarity on the two little coil wires really helped me out alot. Paid for my batteries on the 24th and they were shipped out they should be here any day hopefully tomorrow. Now working on the throttle pod trying to figure out which one is the high which one is low which one is the wiper? The wiper why is it called that? and what does it do just curious I don't know. This is something new too!
That contactor is pretty standard. It should tell you waht voltage the coil is on the side.

Polarity on the mainno lugs isn't that importatnt, it just helps if you ever need to break high current which in theory should never happen. You put the battery size on the + lug and the controller side on the -. The coil itself has no polarity but works best if you a pull in voltage close to the value on the contactor, then it needs to have a hold voltage about 0.6-0.8 x the value of the coil rating if you have it in a place where cooling isn't that good.

Many controllers have their own pre-charge and contactor control with pull in and hold voltage configuration, you have to make sure your controller is configured with the proper values, and make sure you get the wiring diagram for your controller so you get the coils wired up to the contactor control pins (there is no polarity with this contactor, so one wire will go to your contactor supply (which can sometimes be battery + voltage), and one will go to contactor negative (which can sometimes be some potential below battery + voltage). That siaid, many controllers don't care about the contactor control, as long as the voltage supplied to the coontroller is in its range, it will try and deliver the desired output. In that case you can power and control your contactor externally. If you dont't want to make a pull in / hold circuit, just try driving the coil with about 0.8 of its input voltave rating (if it is a 48v contacotr, give it somewhere around 39V, and it will probably close and hold just fine without overheating)

-ryan