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briansterling
11 September 2013, 1142
This is my first attempt at a wiring diagram. I'm still just beginning to understand all the components and their functions so I'm sure it's full of missing components and mistakes. Only thing I'd like to change in the future is to have a 1/2 speed reverse but that's beyond me at the moment. Any input is welcome.

Blogger site: http://gsxev.blogspot.com/

Here's a picture:
http://www.gliffy.com/go/publish/image/4875437/L.png


Here's a link to the interactive page where links are clickable.
CLICK HERE (http://www.gliffy.com/go/publish/4875437)

podolefsky
12 September 2013, 0758
Looking good.

- you need a line from the contactor coil to B-
- put the main fuse as close to the pack as possible, on the other side of the voltage display. You don't want any components between the pack and the main fuse (it's main purpose is to protect the pack from shorts)
- you *might* want to have Alltrax pin 1 connected directly to the 72V side of the 3-way switch. Probably fine either way, I just like the contactor to only switch the main pack and nothing else.
- I strongly recommend having some sort of dedicated kill switch that opens the contactor (by disconnecting power to the coil)

robo
12 September 2013, 1511
Minor detail I think...the pinouts for my 7245 have throttle on 2 & 3 instead of 3 & 4. But, maybe yours is different too.

podolefsky
12 September 2013, 2200
Good catch Rob. Yup, throttle goes to pins 2 & 3. 4 isn't used.

I saw you're planning to use a non-isolated DC/DC converter. That's fine, just make sure you don't connect the negative to the bike frame, or use any of the original wiring if it's grounded to the frame. It's a safety hazard, since that means every metal part of the bike can connect you to high voltage.

On that DC/DC, the three inputs are battery positive (72V), ground, and +12V. The ground is common - goes to both battery negative and 12V system negative. That 72V line that you have switched should go straight from battery positive, not from the DC/DC.

briansterling
13 September 2013, 1033
So I think I may have ended up confusing myself event more. But I sense I still have some mistakes. I've also realized that linking to a URL is bad because my post images change with my design so I can't look back to compare.

Noah -
I moved the main fuse to the correct position
I have a contact between the contactor and the B- of the controller now
I connected pin 1 directly to the 72v line
I'll look into a dedicated "kill switch" I just want to make sure it's not something I can accidentally press while riding
I'm guessing the benefit of using an isolated DC/DC converter is safety?
I also swapped my switch so it comes straight from battery positive and not the converter

Robo-
The only diagrams I could find for the 7234 were the same for the 7245. 1 is KSI Voltage, 2/3 are throttle, and 4 is half speed reverse. I'd really like to take advantage of that reverse but I'm taking baby steps. I'm doing okay to even understand these diagrams.


I'm uploading a picture so I can see changes from here on out.
4944

podolefsky
13 September 2013, 1130
Getting closer.

You want the controller KSI (pin 1) to be switched, so connect it to the 72V output of the 3-way switch.
For the kill switch, I use the stock run/kill switch from the bike. It controls a relay that will kill power to the controller. You won't hit it accidentally, but you'll be very glad you have it in case the controller fails fully on.
Yup - isolated DC/DC is safer. It also protects the 12V electronics from surges on the high voltage line. As long as you do not use the frame as ground, non-isolated is OK.
To use the reverse, you also need a reversing contactor. Pin 4 is just to reduce the reverse speed, but it won't actually reverse the motor. You don't really need reverse on a motorcycle (the only ICE bikes that have reverse are trikes and 1000 lb touring bikes).


What is the 72V relay for that is inline with the motor?

briansterling
13 September 2013, 1351
Thanks Noah,

I changed the KSI pin
I'll probably switch to an isolated DC/DC before final build
I had that relay right there so that the motor could only engage once the key turned to the 3rd position which is "ALL ON". I'm pretty sure I messed that up though.

Changes and further mistakes should be displayed above, lol.

Thanks

podolefsky
13 September 2013, 1422
Ah, I see. The safest thing to do is have the kill switch in line with the contactor coil - that way even if the controller fails, you can open the contactor and kill power completely. Having it go to KSI is 99% as effective, so either way is really fine.

I used a DC/DC just like the one you're looking at and it was fine. But isolated is better - I upgraded after a while. One problem is they're usually big - with the exception of Vicor (that's what a few people have, they're very compact and robust).

Keep up the good work.