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swen_bonson created the thread EV Chopper in HD Big Twin Frame.
" Hello All,

Im in San Francisco and have been working on motorcycles and building choppers for a decade or so. I have recently gotten pretty obsessed about the idea of trying to build an electric chopper that actually looks and feels right, something at least the more open minded members of the chopper crowd could dig on. I also am interested in the idea of a motor and battery setup that could be "Swapped" with a big twin driveline to encourage more EV chopper builds. So here I am!

The piece that hooked me in was that with a little bit of research I discovered that it at least seems that a Zero 75-7 (not sure about 75-10) will fit between the motor mounts for a harley big twin motor and is close at least, to the space and form that a Harley bottom end would be. I found a full Zero 75-7 driveline on facebook marketplace for $3500 bucks and am considering picking it up, but know so little at this stage so don't know if this is a better approach than just doing all the components separately. PLEASE let me know what you think.

As for the battery pack and the rest of the build - my ideas are as follows - i need to learn a lot more to know what will and won't work, and welcome ANY good resources, critiques or ideas at this stage:

- Work with a hardtailed harley big twin frame - this means whatever solutions I come up with should work in any big twin frame up to the 2000's and serve as a swap for everything from Knuckle's to Evos.
- Potentially 2 Battery Packs. Primary Pack could be places where cylinder heads go and oriented roughly as a "V" above the motor. I am interested in using aluminum plates to simulate motor fins, but structurally to house and cool the battery pack. I am not entirely sure how the reality of building this pack would play out so starting to read up there, but seems possible? Second location could be where a chopper oil tank typically sits behind the motor and above the transmission. THis could also have batteries or a controller and could potentially have louvers for cooling.
- other electrical components and charger to go in gas tank. Probably a friscoed sportster tank. Charger under gas cap.
- Thoughtfully flow cabling and other components to make sense but don't try to hide the fact that it's an ebike.
- Perhaps cast motor plates for mounting to frame and add other cast housings to elevate the styling and make it feel more motor- like / flow.
- Run a transmission with an open belt, probably a traditional harley 4 speed. Not sure if this is a terrible idea, but i think the feel/sound of a transmission is nice and if the gearing could help or mike riding feel more kinetic it could be interesting.


Please let me know your thoughts and I'm excited to learn from you all and get into this exciting new world.


Thanks ,

Swen "

17 Hours Ago

Richard230 replied to the thread Recycling lithium EV battereis.
" Here is some interesting news regarding Ford and Redwood Materials building a facility to recycle EV batteries. Let's hope more manufacturers establish recycling programs besides Ford. This is something that must be done if electric vehicles are not to result in both landfill pollution and the problems associated with mining lithium and other battery materials. In addition, I hope that someone also establishes a recycling plant that will recycle all types of lithium batteries and not just ones sold by Ford or another automotive brand. "

3 Days Ago

Richard230 created the thread Pocket Rocket.
" Are you ready for the Pocket Rocket? Just don't expect to go very far or very fast on your Rocket. https://thepack.news/pocket-rocket-f...or-pre-orders/ "

4 Days Ago

RoninKW replied to the thread The R6 Strikes Back.
" Putting my own diagrams together and going back over the ones in the schematic thread helped clear some things up.. I think I get the disconnect, inertia switches or even kick stand switches would go on the 12v side before it goes into the main contactor.

I still need to go back over more of the diagrams they are a little clearer now. "

1 Week Ago

RoninKW replied to the thread The R6 Strikes Back.
" Back again Iíve got everything ordered except for some of the extra bits and pieces and tools. Once I get stuff in, I can at least go through more design and setup. I was reading more about the relays especially for the flashers and I am a little unsure. Are flasher relays to ensure the turn signals blink correctly or do they provide some protection to the turn signal hardware? The ones I have installed now blink at a normal rate without a relay.

Iíve got the 12v system laid out and wired minus a DC/DC step up from 12v to 24v that I want to add in. So, I wanted to put out the power wiring to my controller to see if anyone has any advice or can spot any errors I have made. One thing I noticed about the Orion-Tr I picked for my DC/DC. Is that it has terminals for remote on/off. However, I have it inline after the on/off switch for my 12v battery. Is there a way to leave the Orion always on and keep the power managed by that single switch? Or do I need to move it between the switch and fuse then add a second switch that manages the Orionís power to the controller?

Without further ado this is the battery to fuse block diagram updated to include the branch off to the Orion-Tr.

Attachment 8714

This is the battery pack going to the controller with the diode side of the main contactor connecting to the Orionís input to the controller.

Attachment 8715

Looking at some other builds I think that I want to add in an emergency disconnect. My battery pack will be nominal 96V maybe max 112V (110ah). I finally found an Albirght ED400 disconnect (600A at 96V) and wanted to know if that would suffice? Do I run the battery + into one side and out the other to the controller B+ terminal? I was hoping to use 2 AWG cable from the battery to controller. Does anyone know a good inertia disconnect that I could use and add to the diagram. Does an inertia disconnect interrupt the traction pack power to prevent power getting to the motor? Or is it cutting 12v power to the controller to stop it operating the motor?


Off to hibernate for 1-2 months while I wait on parts and save for more parts lol.... *sigh* "

1 Week Ago

RoninKW replied to the thread Using Leaf Battery Modules.
"
Quote Originally Posted by Spoonman View Post
Happily, you are all correct. It was the nuance in the terminology and the apparent failure of the others to grasp the context in which you were using the word 'Cells' which caused the confusion.
Thank you for confirming and the corrections. "

2 Weeks Ago

Spoonman clicked Likes for this post: Energica on Twisted Road- San Jose CA by jhaggerty

2 Weeks Ago

Spoonman clicked Likes for this post: Updating Zero firmware by Richard230

2 Weeks Ago

Spoonman clicked Likes for this post: Using Leaf Battery Modules by flo

2 Weeks Ago

Spoonman replied to the thread Using Leaf Battery Modules.
"
Quote Originally Posted by RoninKW View Post
So from every thing I could find on the forum and Youtue about the leaf battery modules if I want a 72v-96v system I need 10-12 cells. At 12 cells I should have 5.6kwh if the cells can still do tleast 60 amps.
You are using the word 'Cells' in reference to what are in fact more correctly described as 'Modules' - this is the source of the confusion which you outline farther down.
That point aside, the essence of what you're saying here is correct.

Quote Originally Posted by RoninKW View Post
I also found a site that talks about the leaf battery cell specs across the generations (less info on the gen3s) and using those specs on the battery calculator site https://power-calculation.com/batter...calculator.php site seems to confirm that 10-12 cells is correct.
Also correct where your use of the word 'Cell' is, in context, acknowledged as being in fact a 'Module'.

Quote Originally Posted by RoninKW View Post
I've found some local guys with strong gen3 and gen1 cells however the sellers are saying that I would need 19+ cells to get 72v.
These guys are talking about 'Cells', not modules, hence the disparity.
Gen1 Modules contain 4 Cells, 2S2P (2 in Series, in 2 Parallels) giving them a voltage equivalent to that of 2 cells.
Hence your assertion of 10 modules for 72V is precisely the same as their assertion of "19+" (20 in fact) Cells for the same voltage.

Quote Originally Posted by RoninKW View Post
- From one seller (pack is encased so guessing its a gen1)
Sounds right, if the shoulders aren't visible and there are 3 terminals, it's a Gen1
Shoulders visible showing white separators, and 3 terminal is a ... well I'm not sure Gen2 is fair, but lets say Gen1.5 (Lizard pack).

Quote Originally Posted by RoninKW View Post
- From a second seller (maybe gen3 - Each pack has two sets of terminals and minimal casing)
That's a Gen2. 4S2P (4 cells in series, 2 parallels).
Nominal Module voltage of 14.4V, so you'd need 5 of these.
I think they are also 50Ah cells over the 30Ah in the previous packs, so near twice the energy per module (100Ah as opposed to 60Ah).
I say think as I can't recall whether the 30kWh pack used that 8cell format or not - I'm inclined to think 'not' but I could stand to be corrected on that point.

Quote Originally Posted by RoninKW View Post
Do I understand what I've been reading wrong and I need more than 12 cells or are these sources incorrect?
Happily, you are all correct. It was the nuance in the terminology and the apparent failure of the others to grasp the context in which you were using the word 'Cells' which caused the confusion.

Quote Originally Posted by RoninKW View Post
I am hoping to pair this with a ME1507 and Sevcon gen4 DC (14V to 150V DC). Anyones experience would be greatly appreciated.
Haven't used that pairing myself but there will be plenty who can advise. "

2 Weeks Ago

RoninKW replied to the thread The R6 Strikes Back.
" Thanks for that point, glad to hear that it is correct. I got lucky on the flash relay the turn signals I had lying around from an old project have them built in I guess because as long as you apply power to the signal line it blinks. I'll go ahead and lay this portion out then I need to run down some good waterproof connectors so I can organize exactly how this will get laid down on the frame. "

2 Weeks Ago

Stevo replied to the thread The R6 Strikes Back.
" The only thing I see missing on the schematic is the flasher relay for turn indicator/hazard lights.
Good choice getting the R6 "

2 Weeks Ago

Stevo clicked Likes for this post: The R6 Strikes Back by RoninKW

2 Weeks Ago

RoninKW created the thread The R6 Strikes Back.
" *Working on the picture sizing...

Well guess now is a good time to start. I want to start out by thanking Nuts & Volts. I bought the R6 frame off of him to get my project started. Within the next 14 days I plan on having orders in for a motor and controller plus the fuses, contactors etc. to go along with it. Then within two more weeks I hope to get my hands on 7 gen 4 leaf batteries.

To give myself something to do until then I have started going over the frame to compile a list of things I need to look at, fix, replace when the three main components are out of my screaming wallet lol.

Right now, I have decided on a stand alone 12v system with all LED lighting. Only because this is my first attempt at wiring a bike, it gives me something to work on, removes a little load (donít know how much) from the battery pack, and reduces some complexity so I can wrap my head around it quicker.

I am having some trouble making good diagrams that show how I want to wire the 12v so I may have to post it broken down for anyoneís feedback. The basic of it is I will run the 12v through 30 amp fuse into a key or toggle switch followed by an imitation Blue Sea fuse block then run all the wiring out from there for the switches, head lights, turn signals, brake lights, running lights. I've seen diagrams two ways for the key switch some have the fuse before and others after. the fuse ratings I use throughout are based on some of the diagrams I've been looking at...

This is the battery running to the fuse box:

Attachment 8711

All turn signal wiring running to the fuse block. The turn signals have integrated running lights. I like these because every time I am behind a bike at night, they blend in to the night. Some only have miniature tail light and dim license plate light and I can barely make them out.

Attachment 8712

This one got kind of messyÖ It is the headlights, horn, tail light, license plate light, and brake light:

Attachment 8713

Looking forward to any feedback to improve/correct this setup. "

2 Weeks Ago

jhaggerty replied to the thread Energica on Twisted Road- San Jose CA.
"
Quote Originally Posted by Stevo View Post
Any success renting? Maybe once will pay the month's payment?
No, but I canít say Iím disappointed. I tried to pick a number that would be worth not having the bike for a day and also dissuade any hooligans from renting it and riding it stupidly.

I figure if that means no rentals then thatís okay, but if someone really thinks they want to get an Energica then they can have a real test ride.

May end up lowering the rate if I donít keep riding as much as I have been (itís my only bike right now). Or if anyone pings me and asks specifically. "

3 Weeks Ago

Stevo replied to the thread Energica on Twisted Road- San Jose CA.
" Any success renting? Maybe once will pay the month's payment? "

3 Weeks Ago

Stevo clicked Likes for this post: Updating Zero firmware by Richard230

3 Weeks Ago

RoninKW replied to the thread New from Ohio.
" So I think I may be able to get the Gen 4 72v/80v 500a (size 6) or 72v/80a 350a (size 4) controller with a ME1114. The battery pack I've put togther so far would be a nominal 84v with ~100amh. Would this configuration work for my hope of a 45 mile commuter with speeds up to 70mhp? Would it possibly be able to make it up to these speeds but suffer with slow acceleration?

Something that is throwing me off a little is that the M1114 is described as giving? Continuous current of 125 amps AC (180 Amps DC into the motor control). So I'm not sure if the amps that my battery pack can send to the controller will be enough to truly push the M1114. Any info people can provide to increase my knowledge about this would be great. "

3 Weeks Ago

jhaggerty created the thread Energica on Twisted Road- San Jose CA.
" Hello,

Just a shameless plug that my Energica SS9+ is now on the twisted road P2P bike rental website. If youíre thinking about getting one of these bikes you can rent it and get a full dayís worth of riding in.

https://www.twistedroad.com/bikes/us...keID=m-e3g7dxe

Cheers,
J "

4 Weeks Ago

Warren replied to the thread Kawasaki zxr-E.
"
Quote Originally Posted by flo View Post
Sorry Warren, but that fire was not caused by the bats, actually they survived unscalted.

You didn't watch the video, did you? You can hear the cells exploding and the car is literally burned to the ground! Those huge jets of steaming electrolyte aren't from the battery? lol "

4 Weeks Ago