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Thread: Project fibreglass

              
   
   
  1. #11
    Ghost Rider Allen_okc's Avatar
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    i would suggest a fiber mat, instead of the woven sheet - the woven sheet leaves a pattern after it cures and shows through the paint...
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    Last edited by Allen_okc; 23 February 2012 at 0706.
    The Greatest thing about a EV, is the Song of the Terrain...

  2. #12
    Senior Member larryrose11's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Allen_okc View Post
    i would suggest a fiber mat, instead of the woven sheet - the woven sheet leaves a pattern after it cures and shows through the paint...
    Really? Even after priming and sanding?

  3. #13
    Moderator ZoomSmith's Avatar
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    Fiber Mat is great if you don't care about weight, but the woven cloth results in a much more fiber-dense product, thus higher strength/weight ratio.

  4. #14
    Builder kd8cgo's Avatar
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    I read through that article, very nice and it will be helpful, I was thinking about doing some fiberglass for making shrouds and body panels on my build, and I've never worked with glass before. One question I have,if anyone is experienced here, the guy that made the tank on DoTheTon said the mat has a binder in it that will not dissolve in epoxy-based resins - don't they make a mat that either doesn't have the binder, or has an epoxy compatible version? Seems like it would make the mat much easier to work with if that were the case. I know the carbon fiber mats I've seen don't have binder in them, they are 'loose woven', I guess you'd call it; you can even get different weave patterns since it's intended to be cosmetic in many applications.

  5. #15
    Ghost Rider Allen_okc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by larryrose11 View Post
    Really? Even after priming and sanding?
    i worked on corvettes for years and zoomsmith is correct, the builds up is thicker there for being heavier, but two layers will work fine... the glass has to cure for a week before the primer will cover the woven...

    also remember more glass per resin for strength, to much resin will crack like glass - just my opinion...
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    Last edited by Allen_okc; 23 February 2012 at 1126.
    The Greatest thing about a EV, is the Song of the Terrain...

  6. #16
    Senior Member larryrose11's Avatar
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    Im teaching myself fiberglass layup now, too. Made a lot of mistakes, but that is par for the course right?
    Im working on a small RC boat, modding the hull. Im using a 2oz cloth with no binder.
    Im using really slow cure epoxee, called Zpoxee finishihg resin. It is pretty flexable when it is cured, and nicely sandable.

    Im able to sand it really smooth, so I was wondering about the weave pattern showing through the primer and paint.

    As for a releasing film, wanted somthing that didnt distroy the mold or plug. I came up with using this stuff: Glad Pres-n-seal. It has a mild adhesive in it, but it is made to be removable. Worked great for me!

  7. #17
    Ghost Rider Allen_okc's Avatar
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    the woven is definitely easier to work with sometimes - just give it plenty of time to cure...
    The Greatest thing about a EV, is the Song of the Terrain...

  8. #18
    Status-free and luvin' it
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    Quote Originally Posted by kd8cgo View Post
    One question I have,if anyone is experienced here, the guy that made the tank on DoTheTon said the mat has a binder in it that will not dissolve in epoxy-based resins - don't they make a mat that either doesn't have the binder, or has an epoxy compatible version?
    Yes, there is an epoxy mat that does not have the binder in it, no worries there! Glass and carbon weaves do not have binders, but the chopped mat typically does to make working with it easier - it will hold itself together in dry form which is handy for placement, and after the resin melts the binder the fibers can be pushed into place.


    As far as weave texture printing through the surface, if you're making a one-off part built over foam, at some point you're going to have so much primer and filler built up to level it out that the texture is going to be long gone. If you're building in the winter or cooler temps you want to find a way to cure it at 90-100 degrees during the build/finishing process because when the summer comes along the texture can creep back.

    Heavy surface coats are what avoids the print-through, but heavy polyester gelcoats are also prone to cracking, which is why there is surfacing veil - a finer version of chopped mat that works a lot better. If using epoxy resins however, with urethane or epoxy finishes from the automotive market, the parts will have more inherent flexibility than polyester materials and cracking is less of a problem.
    Mike Pipes
    - Currently under analysis paralysis.

  9. #19
    Senior Member Coninsan's Avatar
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    Was planing on using woven cloth but if the texture shows through that much, mat might be worth an evaluation..

    While some of you have some experience working with fibreglass, what is the pros and Cons of Epoxy resin vs Polyester? And what of the cost of mat vs cloth and epoxy vs polyester?
    "I reject your reality and substitute my own." Adam Savage

  10. #20
    Ghost Rider Allen_okc's Avatar
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    i wish i could compare the two - but i always used resin...

    larry says the polyester sands better, which would be an improvement...
    The Greatest thing about a EV, is the Song of the Terrain...

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