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Thread: e-Cruiser version 1.0 build thread

              
   
   
  1. #21
    Senior Member Hugues's Avatar
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    Short update on my project:

    - mock-up of batteries, motor and controller is finished, things fit nicely, motor will be fixed to swingarm
    - ordered my AC-20 motor, Curtis controller, contactor, DC-DC converter, fuses, wire,... should receive that in about 2-3 weeks
    - ordered my batteries, Winston 90AH for 96 V, out of stock, they will receive the next batch in June only. Got to be patient with this project and not rush anything.
    - Good discussion today with my bike shop, shown the mockup, no problem to fix the motor and batteries. Got a lot of people asking questions today looking at those carton boxes within the frame.

    Next steps:
    - bike shop will install the wheels, fork, brakes, suspension so that we've got a real rolling chassis
    - when motor arrives we'll design the mounting plate, hopefully before end of april.

    stay tuned !
    Regards from Switzerland
    My 2.5 Upgrade Thread

  2. #22
    Senior Member Hugues's Avatar
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    WoooooooooooooooooooWoooooooooooooooooo !!!!!

    Santa Claus stopped by today, motor, controller, and some more gear !
    Cool ! that's one of the best part of a project I guess !
    Regards from Switzerland
    My 2.5 Upgrade Thread

  3. #23
    Senior Member Hugues's Avatar
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    Testing Motor / Controller / Contactor

    ok guys,

    i connected the motor, controller, contactor and throttle, IT WORKS !

    One question:
    As you can see in the video below, i put a switch on the coil line so that i can close and open the contactor, without having to switch off the controller. My circuit is similar to the one of Noha here.

    If i plugged the battery (with the coil switch on) then the controller powers on and the contactor closes , and i can spin the motor. Then i switch off the coil switch, contactor opens like i want, but then controller displays flash code 39 (contactor open). Then if i switch on the coil again, nothing happens, the contactor stays open.

    There must be a way to switch on and off the contactor without switching off the controller, right ? Or else what is the point to have a contactor...

    thanks for your input,

    Regards from Switzerland
    My 2.5 Upgrade Thread

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hugues View Post
    There must be a way to switch on and off the contactor without switching off the controller, right ?
    Wrong, as far as I know. If you open the contactor you need to start over with a key off reset. I don't know why you need to open the contactor unless you're turning off the system and then just use the keyswitch. There are several other ways to inhibit the motor via the controller without interrupting the contactor like the forward run pin.

  5. #25
    Senior Member Hugues's Avatar
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    Thanks lugnut,

    i was on the wrong track then, thought you guys did not start the controller with HV on at the same time, kind of a protection. But then, that leads me to more questions:

    - what is the main purpose of the contactor ? to disconnect HV from controller when bike is switched off ? or there is some other purpose ? The controller would open the contactor maybe in some fail safe mode ?
    - what is the purpose of the run switch then on Noha's diagram ? On the orange/white wire going from controller to coil, some kind of kill switch ?
    - and that leads me to my next question: where should i install my kill switch ? I mean by kill switch a switch that i can activate in case of emergency, very close to my thumb on the handle bar, closing a loop on a low voltage line, to kill all power on motor.
    Regards from Switzerland
    My 2.5 Upgrade Thread

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hugues View Post
    Thanks lugnut,

    i was on the wrong track then, thought you guys did not start the controller with HV on at the same time, kind of a protection. But then, that leads me to more questions:

    - what is the main purpose of the contactor ? to disconnect HV from controller when bike is switched off ? or there is some other purpose ? The controller would open the contactor maybe in some fail safe mode ?
    - what is the purpose of the run switch then on Noha's diagram ? On the orange/white wire going from controller to coil, some kind of kill switch ?
    - and that leads me to my next question: where should i install my kill switch ? I mean by kill switch a switch that i can activate in case of emergency, very close to my thumb on the handle bar, closing a loop on a low voltage line, to kill all power on motor.
    I use a switch like that (in the orange/white wire) for an emergency off (Kill or E-stop) which requires a keyswitch restart. Then I use a handlebar switch in the white wire (forward run command) for turning the motor off and on.

    edit....I also put a brake switch in that white wire so that the motor is off when the brakes are applied.
    Last edited by lugnut; 21 April 2012 at 0624.

  7. #27
    Senior Member Hugues's Avatar
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    thanks
    all clear
    for now at least
    Regards from Switzerland
    My 2.5 Upgrade Thread

  8. #28
    Senior Member Hugues's Avatar
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    wiring diagram

    Working on my wiring diagram, for AC-20 motor and Curtis 1238-7601 Controller,
    did not work yet on DC-DC converter part and BMS, will follow.

    I'm using this online tool, Gliffy, quite easy to use and you can share your diagrams and export them, basic version is free,
    my current diagram below, feel free to give me your input if you see anything wrong or can be improved,
    thanks

    Last edited by Hugues; 02 May 2012 at 1046.
    Regards from Switzerland
    My 2.5 Upgrade Thread

  9. #29
    Ghost Rider Allen_okc's Avatar
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    looks awesome, looks like your moving right along on your project...

    just one question, what is a menu switch?
    The Greatest thing about a EV, is the Song of the Terrain...

  10. #30
    Senior Member Hugues's Avatar
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    The menu switch is a little push button that comes with the controller display. Each time you push, the display cycles the volts, then the amps, RPM,...
    Regards from Switzerland
    My 2.5 Upgrade Thread

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