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Thread: Suzuki DR-350 dual sport build thread

              
   
   
  1. #61
    Senior Member robo's Avatar
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    Frame ready for paint

    I had my frame media blasted to remove all the previous paint & primer. It was pretty inexpensive and I didn't have to use that nasty paint stripper.

    Last time I used stripper, it started eating my nitrile gloves...headed for my skin. No more.

    So, everything's ready for paint...and then "final" assembly!

    frame-blast1.jpgframe-blast2.jpg

    p.s. My pics on this thread are not great...I've used my phone as I've gone along because it's easy.

  2. #62
    Senior Member billmi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by robo View Post
    DRZ400, the tires are a shiny new set of Shinko 705s:

    http://www.shinkotireusa.com/product/product.php?id=63

    They had the street/dirt bias I preferred and they are inexpensive. I think it was about $120 for the set.
    I've been running IRC GP-1s on my DR200s, which are the same street/dirt ratio as the stock Trailwings. Since we ride mainly street, the front tires seem to wear faster, with the knobs getting a cupped shape. I just put a Shinko 705 on one front wheel, a week ago and I'm loving it. Switching the others over as they wear out. I don't think I'll feel quite as confident during heavy downpours or when mud has washed across a road, but that just means taking it a bit slower when that happens and having a smoother ride and hopefully longer tire life the rest of the time.
    Sensei - Electric Ninja 250

  3. #63
    Senior Member robo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by billmi View Post
    I just put a Shinko 705 on one front wheel, a week ago and I'm loving it. Switching the others over as they wear out....
    Glad the 705 is working out. I've had three KLR 650s in the past and when off road, I've had some challenges with Trailwings- particularly on the front. But I agree, with the 705 biased so much towards street, it may have some of the same issues.

    I've run Avons, Continentals, Dunlops, and IRCs too, but I confess that for dual sport biased towards a bunch of offroad, I've been happy with the less expensive Shinkos and Kendas.

  4. #64
    Senior Member robo's Avatar
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    Assembly after paint

    Painting. Ugh. Whoooboy did I mess that up. I'm just going to say I had to re-strip the frame after my first attempt. And I'm going to say I had to re-strip the tank and re-do the bondo after my first attempt there too.

    Ahem.

    Everything's painted now though. Things are coming together (fingers crossed). Here are some partial assembly pics to show where I'm headed.

    It's finally starting to look like the "EDR".

    Hopefully starting cabling and wiring this week.

    framePaint1.jpgframePaint2.jpgbuild1.jpgbuild2.jpgbuild3.jpg

  5. #65
    Senior Member robo's Avatar
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    robo's wires - 12v wiring

    I just finished wiring up most of the 12v system. Like the size of everything on this project, the size of DC/DC converter had to be small. I'm using the tiny Green Galaxy 10A unit. A drawback is it's non-isolated (the upside is it's therefore cheap). Otherwise, it's really small and light. Probably normally lives in a scooter. Hopefully it's reliable and it won't roast...

    http://www.thunderstruck-ev.com/gree...xy-36-72v.html

    My headlight and taillight have LED replacement "bulbs". The four turn signals are (currently) still incandescent. With the brights on, brake light applied, and a turn signal on, the whole 12v system draws about 1.5A max (the horn adds another 1.5A). But, turn off the turn signal and it draws in the low 100s of mA. Even a 10A DC/DC is overkill here.

    I've attached some 12v wiring diagrams. I drew these in TinyCAD. I just tried TinyCAD last night for this project...very easy to use.

    robos-wires1.jpgrobos-wires2.jpg

    edit: seems the forum shrank my diagrams to microfilm...stay tuned for a fix...
    edit: ...much better
    Last edited by robo; 30 August 2013 at 1218.

  6. #66
    Senior Member robo's Avatar
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    Cabling cluster

    It was time to move on to the higher-voltage portion of wiring & cabling. The motor, controller, throttle, high-amp fuse, main contactor, dc/dc, shunt resistor, Cycle Analyst, and front panel are all wired up. I'm close to building my pack & bms after I finish testing everything I've done so far.

    Loving the LED headlights and taillights.

    Also, I've been using one of those ebay hydraulic crimpers. $60 and works really well on my 2/0 cable. Word on the street is the "silver" crimp dies are the correct die sizes (vs the "black" dies which are too small). I can't vouch for all of them, but mine (silver) are the correct size.

    Have I said space is tight? The dirt bike "gas" tank provides very little space underneath.

    cluster1.jpgcluster2.jpgcluster3.jpgcrimper.jpgled-tail.jpg

  7. #67
    Senior Member robo's Avatar
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    Current progress pics

    Here are pics sans cells. Everything else is pretty much there. A few things aren't quite straight in the pics because this isn't final assembly. Waiting on some cable lugs to work on the pack & minibms.

    build-front.jpgbuild-left.jpgbuild-rear.jpgbuild-right.jpg

  8. #68
    Senior Member robo's Avatar
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    Weight and Balance

    Just weighed the bike with the cells on board and the to-be-installed cables on the seat.

    190lbs on the rear tire and 140 on the front...total of 330lbs. Quite a bit heavier than I wanted (was hoping to slide in just under 300). Internet says stock dr350 wet is ~311lbs.

    But for an el-moto with just under 4kWh onboard, not too bad I guess.

  9. #69
    Senior Member SplinterOz's Avatar
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    My Social Networking


    Visit SplinterOz's Youtube Channel
    Yea mine was the same... if you have around 4kwh on board you will be about the same as original.
    SplinterOz
    From Australia'a Capital
    http://rgelectric.wordpress.com/

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  11. #70
    Senior Member robo's Avatar
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    Assembling Cell Packs

    I installed the cells into my four cell packs around the E-DR. My cell trays are a little unusual in that I’m using steel cable with turnbuckles to clamp the top and bottom trays around the cells. Turning the turnbuckle underneath tightens the cables. Rounded inserts on the tray bottoms increase the radius where the cable bends.

    The trays and frames handle all the weight and stress. The cables just tie the top and bottom together. Pretty lightweight, simple, and the steel cables are strong.

    The top trays and cable stops are coated in plasti-dip for electrical insulation…safer when wiring up the packs.

    battBox1.jpgbattBox2.jpgbattBox3.jpgbattBox4.jpgbattBox5.jpg

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