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Thread: Anyone Liquid Cooling Their Controller?

              
   
   
  1. #1
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    Anyone Liquid Cooling Their Controller?

    I put my EBR back together over the weekend with an improved motor mount but I didn't achieve the objective of relocating my controller to an area with more direct airflow. The controller is located in the area formerly occupied by the battery, which is under the seat directly under my butt.

    Currently teeing up a Thunderstruck liquid cooled heatsink and got to wondering if anyone else was doing liquid cooling and what you were using for the other system components, especially the pump and radiator.

    I found a pump on eBay for solar applications and thought it might work since it's designed to handle liquid up to the boiling point.

    Any comments or suggestions?

    Thanks,

    Dale

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    Moderator Nuts & Volts's Avatar
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    Ive used a lot of PC cooling components. Koolance is a good place to start.

    Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk
    Whats under my tank may shock you!!! R6 Build, Blog/, [/URL] OSU Current webpage

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    Senior Member Athlon's Avatar
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    in the project I do for my customer I use Mes-Dea pump but for myself I use mostly computer related stuff.

    Liquid cooling the controller is a good thing because you also add thermal mass and this is useful for peak power. Water have one of the higes specific heat so every kg of water (4,18) you carry around works better than similar wheight of alluminium (0,89) ( http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heat_capacity) .

    Liquid cooling is more complex and have more moving parts , is more expensive , is harder to make and the pump consume energy so is usefull only when you don't have any other chooice.

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    Senior Member jonescg's Avatar
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    The other frustrating thing about liquid cooled inverters is they ask for flow rates of 8-15 l/m, but then they go and put pissy little 3/8 fittings on their coolant loop. It means running much higher pressures for the same flow rate, so choose your pumps wisely. Oh, and all the pumps come with 3/4 fittings :roll:

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    Seņor Member podolefsky's Avatar
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    Netgain makes liquid cooling kits that include the pump, radiator, fans. Basically everything except the chill plate for your controller. They make a standard version that should work for most controllers, and a performance version for very high power controllers. =

    You can get them from a number of EV parts sellers.

    http://www.evolveelectrics.com/Netga...ontroller.html

    What controller do you have? You might get away with a heatsink and a fan to move air through. Might see if you actually have overheating issues before investing in liquid cooling. My Curtis is under the "tank" with a good size heatsink. It gets air but not all that direct. I don't have any heat issues even at highway speeds.
    - Noah Podolefsky -
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    Thanks all for those references. I stumbled across the PC cooling components, too, and was wondering if those might work.

    @podolefsky - I have the Curtis 1238. Since I have no sink at all and it's under the seat, it runs close to the thermal cutoff limit every time out, not pushing hard and still in cool weather. I thought I might prefer to transfer the heat somewhere else. That kit looks like the ticket, thanks!

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    Senior Member Hugues's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dale View Post
    Thanks all for those references. I stumbled across the PC cooling components, too, and was wondering if those might work.

    @podolefsky - I have the Curtis 1238. Since I have no sink at all and it's under the seat, it runs close to the thermal cutoff limit every time out, not pushing hard and still in cool weather. I thought I might prefer to transfer the heat somewhere else. That kit looks like the ticket, thanks!
    had the same problem a few weeks ago, now solved (probably) by increasing my ratio from 4:1 to 6:1, if at all possible for you of course. Now motor temp is below 80C, and when going uphill, bike is 300 kgs
    Regards from Switzerland
    My 2.5 Upgrade Thread

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    Senior Member Athlon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dale View Post
    I have the Curtis 1238......have no sink
    It surprise me that your controller is even running witout any heatsink , even a small finned aluminium sink will be a HUGE improvment if now you are running almost ok without any sink.

    Before stepping to liquid I think a 20-30mm thick finned sink can completly solve all your problem , yust allow some air to get to the fins and everything will run ok

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    Senior Member Athlon's Avatar
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    something like this one can really improve your performace
    http://www.tecnoal.it/k245-profili-s...c0_130_ita.asp and is only 25 mm thick

    if you have a good air flow ( either with fans or dinamic ) you can use sink with more finn like this one
    http://www.tecnoal.it/kf240-profili-...c0_392_ita.asp

    as you cans see with forced air the C°/W is just 0,043 so it can handle the Curtis even in the worst case

  11. #10
    Seņor Member podolefsky's Avatar
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    I agree, a heatsink will make a huge difference.

    I've used this one from heatsinkusa.com. 11" length is a very good fit on a Curtis 1238. Only about $35, just have drill holes.

    http://www.heatsinkusa.com/10-000-wi...inum-heatsink/
    - Noah Podolefsky -
    The GSX-E

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