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Thread: eFazer off the road again, working on fixing it.

              
   
   
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    Member PaulWay's Avatar
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    eFazer off the road again, working on fixing it.

    Hi all,

    Long time no post!

    So I finally got the eFazer going and rode it for about a year. It could easily do 87km on a charge, and looking at battery state when recharging showed the theoretical top range at 125km. It wasn't a rocket off the lights, but had a nice steady acceleration.

    Then it blew a hall effect sensor (again) and a combination of circumstances made it difficult to get it working again. I haven't received any follow up to several emails to Enertrac. Then it turned out that I'd let it sit too long without charging and the cells were all reading zero volts .

    Finally I got off my bum and started re-charging the cells with a small charger to kick start them; they seem OK but only time will tell how much damage I've done to the chemistry.

    I still need to get the motor up to Catavolt north of Sydney to repair it, or get some photos to Jon so he can point me to repairing it myself.

    Have fun,

    Paul
    Last edited by PaulWay; 28 August 2015 at 2336. Reason: Oops - 125km not km/hr.

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    Senior Member picaroon's Avatar
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    It would be interesting to know how easy, or not, it is to get the enertrac apart.

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    Member PaulWay's Avatar
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    Smile

    Quote Originally Posted by picaroon View Post
    It would be interesting to know how easy, or not, it is to get the enertrac apart.
    Opening up the MHM-602 to extract the stator is a bit of a process, but it's not difficult.

    1. Leave the axle through the motor and set the wheel on the bench with the screw thread of the axle upward.
    2. Undo the 12 silver allen key bolts on the top side plate.
    3. Undo and remove the 8 black M8 allen key plugs near the bearing of the top side plate.
    4. Using four M8 bolts (must be at least 60mm long) through the M8 holes, gradually force the side plate off. Tighten each a quarter turn and then move on, to even the pressure. Rotate the stator inside the rotor to make sure you're not putting a bolt into the cables.
    5. Now the fun bit. The stator will immediately stick to the magnets in the rotor. You won't be able to lift it out.
    6. So what you do is drill a 25mm hole through a block of wood and, using it and a set of supports on the rim, gradually tighten the bolt to pull the axle and the stator out of the rotor.
    7. Make sure the rotor doesn't fall back into the stator again.


    That's from memory, and that's what I did. Obviously professionals will have better equipment. It also occurs to me that you can stop the M8 bolts bit by just pulling the stator and side plate off in one go. That'd be much better. Oh well.

    I should make a video of putting it back together.

    Well, all the cells have been revived and the battery is now back on charging with my banal Kingpan 12A charger. We'll see how many amp-hours go into it. It started with most cells at 3.2V to 3.3V, with some down around 2.8V.

    Have fun,

    Paul

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