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Thread: Hello form San Diego! Newbie here biting off more than I can chew

              
   
   
  1. #1
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    Hello form San Diego! Newbie here biting off more than I can chew

    Hi Folks,

    New to the forums and planning a (to me) ambitious conversion. I have a 2005 Ninja ZX6R donor bike that I plan on putting a Motenergy ME1306 motor, a Kelly 8080I controller and a battery made from LiFePo4 32650 cells. I have many many questions that I think are somewhat specific to the components I'm planning on using, but I'm searching the forums to find answers. I'm probably going to miss some obvious stuff. But all in all, expect many questions from me.

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    From my initial research, I've already changed the plan. The 32650 battery pack with nickel strips doesn't make sense. Next plan is prismatic LiFePo4 prismatic cells from aliexpress in a 30s1p to make 96v nominal.

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    Senior Member flo's Avatar
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    HI and welcome to elmoto.

    just a thought from my own experience:
    Try as hard as you can to source some Nissan, BMW, VW golf, chevy volt, Kokam brand, A123 cell.... packs. In other words grade A or even OEM cells.
    In my Sachs xtc125 build i had used ali cells. On the datasheet they look suitable but in reality these are second grade cells needing more ballancing than you want to. Also they will deliver only a fraction of whats atvertised...
    Using a bms will keep them in line but there will always be ballancing going on and that may take more time to tend to than you are willing to spend..
    Just food for thought

    flo
    Last edited by flo; 05 April 2021 at 2300.

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    Thanks for the info! Based on your recommendations, I've found sources for either chevy volt 48v modules from a car with 25k miles or a source for gen I leaf cells. Would you recommend one over the other? Also, how would I go about a bms solution for either case?

  7. #5
    Senior Member Stevo's Avatar
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    Thats a nice chassis that you are using...I know its your first build and all... but I suggest buying the sevcon that Ed is selling and go with the ME1616 or 1507 motor for this build... It will make you smile. The 1306 will leave you wanting more. IMHO
    Last edited by Stevo; 06 April 2021 at 1157.
    Current rides: '96 Honda Ohlins VFR, '03 Cannondale C440R, '03 Cannondale Cannibal, '06 Yamaha 450 Wolverine 4x4
    Current builds: eVOR.v3.4
    WORX.VOR.v3.2

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    Quote Originally Posted by flo View Post
    HI and welcome to elmoto.

    just a thought from my own experience:
    Try as hard as you can to source some Nissan, BMW, VW golf, chevy volt, Kokam brand, A123 cell.... packs. In other words grade A or even OEM cells.
    In my Sachs xtc125 build i had used ali cells. On the datasheet they look suitable but in reality these are second grade cells needing more ballancing than you want to. Also they will deliver only a fraction of whats atvertised...
    Using a bms will keep them in line but there will always be ballancing going on and that may take more time to tend to than you are willing to spend..
    Just food for thought

    flo
    HI, Great advice, they have great quality control.

    What about the motors from Tesla? or from Chevy volt, There is nice disassembly video from: WeberAuto ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dqM3YXEf1js )
    combine in it with Sevcon, What do you think about that?

  10. #7
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    Thanks for the reply guys! Sadly, I already ordered the motor before I joined here and did all my research. So sadly I'm stuck with it, at least for this build

  11. #8
    Senior Member Stevo's Avatar
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    It will be fine. You might have some heat issues is all. It will be a fantastic education for you for sure, and it wont be that difficult to upgrade later to newer technology. Post pics of your build. Im looking forward to seeing this badboy!
    Current rides: '96 Honda Ohlins VFR, '03 Cannondale C440R, '03 Cannondale Cannibal, '06 Yamaha 450 Wolverine 4x4
    Current builds: eVOR.v3.4
    WORX.VOR.v3.2

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    Hey guys, after a break for family reasons I am returning to this project. All of my parts are here, the bike is de-ICEd and I'm ready to start assembly. I do have a question though. The description on my motor says it can draw 600A DC from the motor controller. Does this mean that I need all of my battery connections (ie bus bars) need to be able to handle 600A? From what I understand, motor current can be much higher than battery current at low speeds, but battery current will equal motor current if I reach 100% PWM. If that's all true, then all main power connections should be built to carry full current, with a little extra for safety margin, correct? Any help would be greatly appreciated

  14. #10
    Senior Member Stevo's Avatar
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    Yes, you will draw maximum amperage when starting from a dead stop, so only momentary for a few seconds. Anytime you give it throttle while you are already moving will increase your amperage but not as much as from a stop, so its only a temporary blip of a few seconds at the most... maybe you wont actually ever see 600 amp. The way I understood it, is the amperage coming from the controller to the motor is different than the amperage from the battery pack to the controller. Maybe someone else can elaborate better then me. Be sure to use a proper main fuse to prevent any cable fires between battery and controller. I think I used 4-0 size cable for battery to controller.
    Last edited by Stevo; 23 June 2021 at 1030.
    Current rides: '96 Honda Ohlins VFR, '03 Cannondale C440R, '03 Cannondale Cannibal, '06 Yamaha 450 Wolverine 4x4
    Current builds: eVOR.v3.4
    WORX.VOR.v3.2

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