Power in Flux
Likes Likes:  1
Results 1 to 5 of 5

Thread: The R6 Strikes Back

              
   
   
  1. #1
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2021
    Location
    Ohio, USA
    Posts
    12
    Post Thanks / Like

    Post The R6 Strikes Back

    *Working on the picture sizing...

    Well guess now is a good time to start. I want to start out by thanking Nuts & Volts. I bought the R6 frame off of him to get my project started. Within the next 14 days I plan on having orders in for a motor and controller plus the fuses, contactors etc. to go along with it. Then within two more weeks I hope to get my hands on 7 gen 4 leaf batteries.

    To give myself something to do until then I have started going over the frame to compile a list of things I need to look at, fix, replace when the three main components are out of my screaming wallet lol.

    Right now, I have decided on a stand alone 12v system with all LED lighting. Only because this is my first attempt at wiring a bike, it gives me something to work on, removes a little load (donít know how much) from the battery pack, and reduces some complexity so I can wrap my head around it quicker.

    I am having some trouble making good diagrams that show how I want to wire the 12v so I may have to post it broken down for anyoneís feedback. The basic of it is I will run the 12v through 30 amp fuse into a key or toggle switch followed by an imitation Blue Sea fuse block then run all the wiring out from there for the switches, head lights, turn signals, brake lights, running lights. I've seen diagrams two ways for the key switch some have the fuse before and others after. the fuse ratings I use throughout are based on some of the diagrams I've been looking at...

    This is the battery running to the fuse box:

    Battery to Fuse Block.JPG

    All turn signal wiring running to the fuse block. The turn signals have integrated running lights. I like these because every time I am behind a bike at night, they blend in to the night. Some only have miniature tail light and dim license plate light and I can barely make them out.

    Fuse Block to Turn.JPG

    This one got kind of messyÖ It is the headlights, horn, tail light, license plate light, and brake light:

    Headlights Horn Tail Lights.JPG

    Looking forward to any feedback to improve/correct this setup.
    Last edited by RoninKW; 08 September 2021 at 1733. Reason: Pictures too small

  2. Likes Stevo liked this post
  3. #2
    Senior Member Stevo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Behind the Redwood Curtain- REDWOOD ORIGINAL!!
    Posts
    981
    Post Thanks / Like

    My Social Networking

    Add Stevo on Google+
    The only thing I see missing on the schematic is the flasher relay for turn indicator/hazard lights.
    Good choice getting the R6
    Current rides: '96 Honda Ohlins VFR, '03 Cannondale C440R, '03 Cannondale Cannibal, '06 Yamaha 450 Wolverine 4x4
    Current builds: eVOR.v3.4
    WORX.VOR.v3.2

  4. #3
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2021
    Location
    Ohio, USA
    Posts
    12
    Post Thanks / Like
    Thanks for that point, glad to hear that it is correct. I got lucky on the flash relay the turn signals I had lying around from an old project have them built in I guess because as long as you apply power to the signal line it blinks. I'll go ahead and lay this portion out then I need to run down some good waterproof connectors so I can organize exactly how this will get laid down on the frame.

  5. #4
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2021
    Location
    Ohio, USA
    Posts
    12
    Post Thanks / Like

    Traction Pack, DCDC, Controller

    Back again Iíve got everything ordered except for some of the extra bits and pieces and tools. Once I get stuff in, I can at least go through more design and setup. I was reading more about the relays especially for the flashers and I am a little unsure. Are flasher relays to ensure the turn signals blink correctly or do they provide some protection to the turn signal hardware? The ones I have installed now blink at a normal rate without a relay.

    Iíve got the 12v system laid out and wired minus a DC/DC step up from 12v to 24v that I want to add in. So, I wanted to put out the power wiring to my controller to see if anyone has any advice or can spot any errors I have made. One thing I noticed about the Orion-Tr I picked for my DC/DC. Is that it has terminals for remote on/off. However, I have it inline after the on/off switch for my 12v battery. Is there a way to leave the Orion always on and keep the power managed by that single switch? Or do I need to move it between the switch and fuse then add a second switch that manages the Orionís power to the controller?

    Without further ado this is the battery to fuse block diagram updated to include the branch off to the Orion-Tr.

    BatteryDCDC.JPG

    This is the battery pack going to the controller with the diode side of the main contactor connecting to the Orionís input to the controller.

    Traction Pack Controller DCDC.JPG

    Looking at some other builds I think that I want to add in an emergency disconnect. My battery pack will be nominal 96V maybe max 112V (110ah). I finally found an Albirght ED400 disconnect (600A at 96V) and wanted to know if that would suffice? Do I run the battery + into one side and out the other to the controller B+ terminal? I was hoping to use 2 AWG cable from the battery to controller. Does anyone know a good inertia disconnect that I could use and add to the diagram. Does an inertia disconnect interrupt the traction pack power to prevent power getting to the motor? Or is it cutting 12v power to the controller to stop it operating the motor?


    Off to hibernate for 1-2 months while I wait on parts and save for more parts lol.... *sigh*

  6. #5
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2021
    Location
    Ohio, USA
    Posts
    12
    Post Thanks / Like
    Putting my own diagrams together and going back over the ones in the schematic thread helped clear some things up.. I think I get the disconnect, inertia switches or even kick stand switches would go on the 12v side before it goes into the main contactor.

    I still need to go back over more of the diagrams they are a little clearer now.

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •